Ice upgrade

[Gurj51ngh]

i agree with all this. but then again there are some sub's which are made for a true pounding. e.g kicker l7 & solo x series, orion, rockford fosgate etc. I don’t want to argue with any one on here as every one has there own opinions.

But all I can say is over the years I have had many set up and have installed may set ups for mates. And I will always try and find a close enough matching amp to the sub. Nothing that is seriously UNDER POWERING. People like to believe its better of being safer then sorry by going for a low rated amp. But what they don’t realise is that they can also cause damage to the sub by having a low power rated amp. I have done loads of research on things like this.

I will post up pics of my set up when its nearly done as I doubt I will ever manage to finish it of as I don’t know where to stop.

At the moment I am running a Kenwood dvd 7” monitor head unit KVT-729, 4 x 15” kciker l7 08 subs, 2 which are ported 2 which are sealed. Running the subs are 2 x Hifonics amps BXI2006D. 2 sets of 6 ½” components, 1 pair are infinity kappa series. Other set a pair of diamond HEX S600A components. Both sets powered by a 4 channel JBL 75.4 Amp. A 6 frad hifonics power cap. Free view box, 10 disc Kenwood mp3 cd changed and a 80gb PS3. All running of some lovely 0 gauge cable.

The set up is all done just in the middle of tidying it all up but just cant get the time.

[Gurj51ngh]

also watts dont mean sod all. its RMS and DB you wana be talking.

[M4carp]

....and if you can find it rms continuous sine wave as this is the true rms figure as some companys twist rms a bit.

That system must be drawing some serious amps

[whitevanman66]

if its anything to go by,the amp has got 3x 40amp fuses in it

[mikke]

Here is some good advice for you all.
Here's where you will be able to tell a decent manufacturer from the crap. Let's say you are looking at a 250 watt (RMS) amplifier. The first physical thing I look at, is how big a fuse do they recommend (or what size fuse is in the end of the amp)?
I know right now that 250 watts OUT will demand (and I use 50% efficiency to keep it simple) 500 watts in.
500 watts in, divided by the (car running) battery voltage (14.4v) is about 35A. If I look at the end of the amp, and see a 20A fuse, I'm walking away, as there is no way that amp can make 250 REAL watts, continuously.
14.4v times 20A, equals 280 watts in.
250 watts out, divided by 280 watts in, translates to an 89% efficiency. In a class A/B amp, this is an impossible number, and it even stretches the imagination for digital amps, as well. The theoretical MAXIMUM efficiency for class A/B is 66%, (95% for digital) so someone is lying. I don't care WHO the manufacturer is, if these numbers don't add up, I will start looking elsewhere... Now, if all the other specification look good, AND I can get in the vicinity of the RMS power I am looking for, I will buy an amp that's efficiency number might be stretching the truth a bit. My old Nak 160 watt monoblocks had 40A (that's 480 watts in - a 33% efficiency, people!) fuses in each one, and they ran hotter than a firework, even loaded at over 8 ohms. I liked that.

[Mike]

My JL e1400D is quoted at 500w RMS X 1 at 2ohms (14.4v), it requires a 40amp fuse.

[whitevanman66]

according to the manwel mines rated at 450 x 1 @4 ohmns....800 x 1 @2ohmns....1200 x 1 @1ohmn ....70%into 1ohmn load at max power ....(3x 40 amp fuses in end of amp) distortion at rated power less than 1.0% THD+N.....does that make sense &is it as good as i was told

[M4carp]

Just an update, I just need to decide which double din sat nav unit to get But I have got the rest which is a Hertz EP4 amp to run fronts and sub, Hertz HSK130 components and a Hertz Mille 10" sub (bloody expensive) in a sealed box. Im hoping the amp will run the sub to my liking otherwise I will be fitting another amp that will really push the Mille sub but fingers crossed. Also still to get all the cable and sound proofing for the doors.

Is it easy to put new speaker cables into the door through the rubber sleeve?

[Mike]

Is it easy to put new speaker cables into the door through the rubber sleeve?

It's a total bitch in the 'proper' Transit, I hope it's easier in yours. I used a semi flexible nylon draw cord that electricians use for putting cables into ducting, still a sod of a job though. Have fun

[M4carp]

It's a total bitch in the 'proper' Transit, I hope it's easier in yours

Think I will do it on a day when im in a good mood then

Just bought a Pioneer Avic HD3BT for a bargain price, it looks the bllx but now I will have to make some kind of cover for it so I dont get a smash and grab

[andymdj]

Hi mate

what year is your van? you have got a good head unit there, if it fits ! my parts have just arrived at my garage so i will be hopefully tweaking my dash tonioght for the final install, just need to find where this vss cable is as apparantly it is key to getting a quick and good gps signal.

Let me know how you get on with the HD unit, i didnt have the cash to go that far up and stuck with the D3, still a good unit, the reversing camera from pioneer is really good even at night it is really clear.

Apparantly (well certainly ont he D3) you can install a system password so if anyone disconnects it or resets the unit it will ask for a code, and if you dont have it the only thing it will be good for is stopping the motor when the handbrake fails, as i dont think a thief will risk sending it to pioneer for repair.!

Andy

[andymdj]

FYI http://www.avic911.com is a good source of info for these units.

Andy

[M4carp]

My vans an 08 so should be ok. Do ford do their own adapter face plate for this, I can get third party ones but would be good to get original if possible.
Good luck with your dash I hope it goes ok and let me know if you find the vss cable as I think my unit needs it too.

Thanks for the link.

[andymdj]

Yes Ford do have a specific AVIC D3 Cradle and bezel at a whopping £50 quid ! i will post a photo if i can so you can see what you think.

[M4carp]

If you can that would be great, Thanks Andy.

Dave