Locks won’t stay locked - NOT door ajar

[metalworker0]

well at the same time you are tightening up the door panel you are also flexing the conduit between the door and the A pillar, have you pulled out the loom through the conduit to see if any wire damage is contained within it... because that is the greatest wear and tear area .


note other

whilst doing all this ... you don't want the keyfob anywhere near the van,because as mentioned above that may be the cause.


also ... any handles that are stiff on the doors and not pushed in, will cause all doors to cycle to open, any fault on any door will also cause it to cycle to open.

all the best.mark

[overdraft]

Mark, Not sure how different the 2006 is from the 2012, but on mine the door loom exits the door inside a flexible rubber boot below the upper door hinge, so neither the panel nor the loom are anywhere near the A-pillar.
I checked the loom for damage and there was none visible. And I'd have thought that if it was loom damage that doing up the perimeter fasteners and/or the door pull would have stressed it since they're in the proximity of where the loom runs.
But that was all fine. The failure didn't recur until the trim bolt for the interior door release was snugged up and that doesn't appear to be anywhere near the loom!
As Fleetwood Mac would say...

mystery to me.jpg

My intent now is to run it for a while and see if this is really the 'fix' or if some new symptom manifests itself... fingers crossed I'm OK now...

[metalworker0]

We are talking about the drivers door?

This hangs from the A pillar

Yes rubber conduit

This is the main area for damage on most cars or vans, no matter what the make and model

The wires, after many years and many door opening and closing events, rub against each other , wearing the insulation ... so baring the wires .. eventually snapping them, can only be found out by taking the loom out and unwrapping the insulation. .. or maybe doing test on all wires with multimeter, whilst unplugged at each end, doing the tests whilst twisting and pulling and bending them. you'll be testing for continuity from one end of a wire to the other .. and testing for shorts from one wire to another .

best explanation i could find .. transit custom .. but probably near the same

says everything ive just said. except the multi meter tests , which is hard to do with all wires being the same colour !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNSOUFWnqaY


take note on how he disconnects the plugs



all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

any news?

all the best.mark

[overdraft]

Given that the problem seemed linked to the inner door handle I've replaced it with a brand new one and while I was doing the swap I also shot some WD40 inside the cable sleeve.
it SEEMS to be working correctly now...
Therefore my best guess is that there was a mechanical issue of some kind with the previous door handle, like it was sticky or the stops or spring or pivot were worn out, that didn't manifest itself until the bolt that holds both the door handle and the trim bezel was tightened up. I'm imagining that tightening up the mounting bolt flexed the housing to make this happen?
In any event, the new handle can be snugged up as much as you'd want and doesn't cause the problem.
So fingers crossed that was it!