Alternator ABS

[Boghopper]

I'm glad the lack of charge is sorted, but I can't get my head around how many times you've had alternator issues.

I know, it's mental. This one that's just come off did only 32,000 miles!

[Boghopper]

It seems this P0625-62 has nowt to do with the actual glow-plugs.

[metalworker0]

the only problem i had with them was with a rover 420 .. the original alternator had a cowl heat shield around it made of asbestos or something .. this crumbled away and fell off .. within a few weeks in the summer its failed... i could not locate or buy that heat shield , and about 5 years later i had gone through another three alternators.. it was right at the side of the exhaust.

trouble with 1.8 MK1 .. its right at the bottom of the engine exposed to all the road grime.
mk2s have full under tray .. I don't think they will fit though

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

I changed the small alternator loom earlier on, just because it seems to be a common proclem. Anyway, battery light is back on with a new code: P0626-61.

What a waste of time that was.

[metalworker0]

P0626-61.

excessive voltage ..!!!

move on to the next alternator.. don't drive with that it will ruin something; batteries, miodules, pcm

out of interest - look at this .. strange .. has remote alternator with a bearing and shaft drive by the looks of it .. question is why ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266847531971?

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

I have been out in it, yesterday, to see if the A.B.S. lamp went off. I will have to get another alternator. The one I just put on was a Genuine Ford refurb alternator, still in the Ford box! It seems like the regulator inside is knackered. Trying to think if I could have done anything lowering the subframe, I never went near all that stuff though and there are no wires areound the steering rack.

That bearing is the clutch/ freewheel. It allows the alternator rotor to spin freely when you let your foot off the pedal and the engine decelerates. It protects the drive belt and tensioner from the high rotational inertia from the heavy alternator rotor. It is basically like a pushbike rear freewheel acting essentially like a bicycle freewheel . I have one on both my vans, they only turn in one direction and freewheel in the other and they are driven by the pulley belt.

[metalworker0]

interesting never knew they had such a thing .

if its built the same as a bicycle free wheel, (metal on metal ratchet) it will need attention after a high mileage. grease will dry up and it will wear .or the bearing will wear out . (bicycles though, the ones i ride , are not dust or water tight.

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

No, it's a rubber affair, the actual connection cup to the alternator is metal though. Yes, there is a large sealed bearing inside. The unit is non serviceable I think.

move on to the next alternator.

I do not have any others in a working condition. I have sourced some slip-rings and a brush set for them though so am going to see if they fit.

I have one other new alternator but a mount is snapped on the frame. I would need to strip it and use a casing from another one.

I am not too sure it is an alternator problem though.

[metalworker0]

cheap way to monitor it .. without have wires everywhere

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/398071061511?


all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

I do have this one and it's pretty handly:


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226438923466 ... R5aG1-PlZw

Got to try and think what's causing all this nonsense though.

[metalworker0]

No, it's a rubber affair, the actual connection cup to the alternator is metal though. Yes, there is a large sealed bearing inside. The unit is non serviceable I think.

move on to the next alternator.

I do not have any others in a working condition. I have sourced some slip-rings and a brush set for them though so am going to see if they fit.

I have one other new alternator but a mount is snapped on the frame. I would need to strip it and use a casing from another one.

I am not too sure it is an alternator problem though.

ive heard, well heard, I know , one of the most common failings in an alternator is the diode regulator pack housed in the alternator .. so you need one of those for each rebuild.

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

Took off and cleaned the two earths on the battery earth cable today and the pins on the 3-pin cable. Did a volt drop test on the battery live cable 0.1mv. Got 13.9v with the 3-pin disconected and 14.4v with it connected. Did a load test on the alternator with everything turned on, aircon, windscreen demister, blower/ heater and headlamps. The alternater seems stable at 14.4v at 2000 revs. My battery light has gone out now and the P0625-62 and the P0625-61 have gone. My A.B.S. is still illuminated, haven't rolled the wheels though. The two A.B.S. fuses are fine. I still have the PO380-68 code and a new code today was: PO380-78 which seems the same as the 68 one. I am going to check my glow-plugs and check the feed wire to them, finis: 1745678. The relay for the flow-plugs also needs checking.

ive heard, well heard, I know , one of the most common failings in an alternator is the diode regulator pack housed in the alternator .. so you need one of those for each rebuild.

The diodes are on the rectifier and the rectifier is a seperate unit within the Visteon alternator. If the actual stator and armature windings are sound then, there are only these items to replace: The two bearings, the brush unit, the slip-rings, the rectifier and the regulator; which the 3-pin connects to.

[Boghopper]

Checked my feed to the glow-plugs and there is my battery voltage reaching the furthest away one. Checked the feed for damage along the way and melting at the dipstick connection (what a lashup!). Anyway all seems fine in that regard. Glow-plug relay is sending over 12.0v to the plugs for around six seconds before dropping to 6v. I the exact same test on my other van and it dumped 12v to the glow-plugs for six seconds the n the relay shut it down to zero volts. One van, after six seconds, going to 6v the other after 6 seconds going to zero. As I understnd it though the E.C.U. can change that voltage aftyer the initial 12v to any voltage depending on different variables.

Took out a glow-plug and it was knackered, 0 ohms Took out another two and one was 52.89 ohms and the other was around 12 ohms, all knackered. The fourth one is seized so, I have left it until tomorrow and will try and warm the engine up before attempting to move it. I am only using a short 1/4" ratchet but, I do not know what torque these things can take before snapping. Does anyone know if they can handle a 3/8" ratchet? I had thgese out years back and put copaslip on them but, the geo-engineering weather has got one of them, constant damp, drizzle and sunless.

I am hoping all these knackered glow-plugs are what's causing the P0380 fault codes. Need to get this other sod out, as mentioned, I could do with it not snapping off in the head.

[metalworker0]

Glow plugs 15 Nm
Electrical connectors 3 Nm

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

Anyway, I still cannot remove the last glow-plug even though I have een soaking it in Plusgas for over a week and trying it with the torque wrench set to 15nm with the engine hot, still won't budge: obviously poohing it, about it snapping. It passed M.O.T. as the glow-plug error is not an M.O.T. failure. I have to say that these glo-plugs have nothing to do with the starting of the vehicle. Mine are all knackered and have been for a while but, the van starts perfect, maybe a bit smokey in the winter, that's all.



My A.B.S. code was sorted out by changing the front sensor, could see no physical damage to the end and there was 12v getting to it at the feed connector. I stuck the air-line down the sensor hole, in the knuckle and blew out a bit of muck thrn replaced it and that was that. That Forscan was good as it told me the exact sensor that was wrong. Made me realise how archaic that ForDiag, that I have been using, is.

I had another code ACM B1342-40. Which was telling me to see the dealer and it was just because the code had not been entered into the stereo, what a load of nonsense!


There are 200 Ford dealerships being shut down and one of them is the one near me. It is the second oldest Ford dealership in Britain, and has been a garage for over 120 years. So, that is going to cause me no end of problems, the joys of Cultural Marxism. Hold onto your hat as the next puppet to be installed is an even extra radical Bolshie and things are going to get bad! They're shutting down the factories just when all the rent is due!

https://dunnets.co.uk/


My other vans two main rails were stripped down to the metal. I put cold galvanizing primer on them, then, 2K epoxy on top, then, vapourmatic paint, then, synthapruf, then, UPOL gravitex. Lasted two years, up here, before being stripped and rust showing through.



My centre exhaust has only done two winters and is nearly through on the lower bends so, have had to take that off as well.

Was thinking of buying all the bends and box in stainless and getting a TIG but it seems pretty involved with all this purging gas and helium mix.

I have a decent MIG and have been reading about welding stainless with the MIG, using stainless wire, don't know how feasible that is though. 304 stainless seemd to be a great deal harder to weld and is prone to fracture if bodged up.



Both my rear calipers have seized and the lower edgwe of the pistons have been eaten away so, the rubber boot won't fit back on. They were brand new 3 years ago!



Fifty quid for a pair of new calipers and £42.00 for a rebuild kit! These green zealots make me laugh as they make everything throw away whilst insincerely prattling on about recycling. They always weem to be driving around in brand new vehicles as well.