
Been a few on this forum of late, DONT FEED THE TROLLS....
We all no who they are..






GKandR4CH wrote:Now I'd like to know where they got the coilovers from as I cannot find any.





jibster344 wrote:lowered mine yesterday with this kit!No problems for me, although i will never carry much weight at all... As said 100 times, its been around for years and years, as long as its a nice strong decent weld, nothing to worry about.

van mann wrote:jibster344 wrote:lowered mine yesterday with this kit!No problems for me, although i will never carry much weight at all... As said 100 times, its been around for years and years, as long as its a nice strong decent weld, nothing to worry about.
At last ,common sense from someone that has actually done it.
Lets see some pics of it lowered.







L200Lee wrote:Just to add to this thread, I searched axle flips on google, and in the states there are many companies offering exactly the same kit, done exactly the same way for 4x4 trucks, ie; dodge ram's and those things weigh alot! So I think a connect will be more than capable of having this mod done.
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OR::
I thought of another add on to assist with those who want to lower the rear and carry weight.
(these are quickly drawn up under the influence of Magners Cider) so don't laugh! (too much!)![]()
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The lowering scenario
And my idea of a hook type rod, welded to the axle, run under the bottom plate and back over the axle, all fully welded.
Think it can be done??
van mann wrote:And my final word on this subject.
Take a look at this van
It was developed and made by FORD
It has the SAME REAR LOWERING METHOD AS I USE .Even down to the standard leaf springs.Except it uses coilovers

van mann wrote:Brit 50 wrote:van mann wrote:Rear u bolts will be over engineered by FORD.If a load capacity is 1000kg they won't be designed to snap at 1100kg.More likley to be at around 2000kg or even more.These are 14mm high tensile steel u bolts not 3mm chocolate ones.The bolts at either end of the leaf spring into the body that take the spring weight are only 15mm.
Lets here from people that have actually done this mod and not armchair pundits spreading doom and gloom that don,t know oen end of a spanner form another.Makes no odds to me either way.Lower your van or keep it standard,it's up to you.I didn,t get into this to make money,just to help other connect owners out as the biggest question on this forum is" HOW DO I LOWER THE REAR OF A CONNECT"?.
As for insurance,make sure you notify them about your alloy wheesl,colour coded bumpers,mirrors,different seats because if you make it more attractive to thieves and don,t tell them,insurance VOID.
Armchair pundit lol
Ok, enlighten us with your wisdom, why are the rear spring brackets not supplied made as one piece but are sold to be welded to the original by anyone who thinks they can stick two bits of metal together with all the inherent problems that involves? How will the welded brackets perform with lateral loading as the metal has altered its strength in the middle of the bracket due to the welding process? Why would you weld two bits of metal together to support your springs when surely one completely new part would be so much safer? Would you advise holding the axle in a jig while applying copious amounts of heat to one side of the axle when welding the new brackets to it? How does this modification you are selling the parts for affect the scrub line? (yeah google it to find out what it means) know one end of a spanner, ha!
You may feel that you are 'just helping connect owners out' but if you are not an engineer and do not even have the basic understanding of how suspension works then you are a danger to others. The BIG question on this forum should be......
How do I lower my connect SAFETLY!
So i take it you havn't lowered or adjusted the rear axle of a connect then.
Why do i sell the brackets and expect people to weld them themselves.I would assume they will get a acompitant welder.If you purchased a kitchen from B&Q ,fitted it yourself and it looked sh*t and the cupboards didn't open .......would you blame B&Q for not checking your ability or should you have got some one compitant to do the job properly and safley??????
When lowered the SRUB line is within recommended perameters.
Only 1 inch lower than rear shock mount which is factory set.
As for welding the brackets alters it,s strengh.It,s just a duplicut of how it,s done at the factory.
Mig wlding would not alter 7mm steel plate or your doing something wrong.
Would love to know what line of work you are in.
Just want to make sure you are right so i can tell the 1000,s of car and van owners that have used this method NOT to use their motors.
And also WARN!!!!!! this company on ebay that use exactley the same method.


van mann wrote:And my final word on this subject.
Take a look at this van
It was developed and made by FORD
It has the SAME REAR LOWERING METHOD AS I USE .Even down to the standard leaf springs.Except it uses coilovers

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