Subframe removal

[dannysconnect]

Is it possible to remove the front subframe on a connect without havin to remove the steering rack? I can get to 1 bolt on the rack to unbolt it from the subframe but the bolt on the right handside of the steering rack is too tite to get to u cant get a socket in there. Has any1 removed the subframe and kept the rack in bèfore

[taz666]

yes they do come out, lower the subframe a little to allow enough space to get socket in and it should come undone

[dannysconnect]

thank you - has anyne removed the engine without taking subframe off - looks possible but dont want to get stuck halfway

[paul2012]

thank you - has anyne removed the engine without taking subframe off - looks possible but dont want to get stuck halfway

engine could possibly be removed without removing subframe.

Just remove front bumper along with headlamps. slam panel & Bumper reinforcement. This should give you plenty of room to lift & pull the engine clear. Although Engine will have to be removed complete with gearbox.
Normally they are Dropped out from underneath, once subframe has been removed.



If you do remove the subframe, Make sure that you have the 2 locating pins to re-aline subframe with chassis

[taz666]

no it wont go past the subrame unless you remove all the front end

[dannysconnect]

thanks for the info - bit spooky i looked at that pic before checkin my msg from you - im spaying the bumpers anyway so that got to come off so will just take slam panel off etc

cheers

[Hotwheels]

Any idea on how much time it would take for the front end strip down fit new slam panel and ree build fitting new front bumper and wheel arches.

[Ukmod321]

Any idea on how much time it would take for the front end strip down fit new slam panel and ree build fitting new front bumper and wheel arches.

Hi mate just fitted new front end on my 06 plate connect did not need to change the slam pannel just cut a small hole where the new ford bage goes in on to pannel brought the lot of eBay £250 it took me half an hour to do the lot

[Boghopper]

yes they do come out, lower the subframe a little to allow enough space to get socket in and it should come undone

I'm going to have to try this method, in a minute. I hope it works.

[metalworker0]

WARNING - be aware with older vans ..bolts will be rusted solid and may break the inner captive nuts contained within the chassis rails free, if that happens you'll need to cut holes in the chassis rails to fix it.

so don't just put a wrench on it ..get some heat and penetrating oil intro them, work them back and forth, until you're happy they will come out without causing the above .

to get penetrating oil to the top of the bolts and captive nuts ...either remove front bumper and crash bar ..or drill small hole in the chassis rail .

its hard to believe that a pheasant could do that sort of damage ..unless the whole lot was rotten to start with

would be interesting to see pictures


all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

I have removed the six subframe bolts, they were stiff but came out. I believe that is the waxoil that does that, stops the capillery traction of the water, down the threads.

As I have gone the route of leaving the steering rack in. I have now found out thet the anti-roll-bar loops over the tracking rods stopping you from lowering the subframe. How the hell do you get the tracking rods clear of the anti-roll-bar, no-one mentioned that anywhere?

[metalworker0]

The tracking rods or drumsticks as they are sometimes called

First take the track rod end off ..
then unscrew them from the rack

There is only one tool that can do this and its a 12 inch stiltson...then you'll struggle with only 1/2 inch of movement

if it still has the originals on it ..they will have no flats to grip ..so that is why i recommend a stilson and has to be a 12 inch one ...I've recently replaced these tracking rods, so its fresh in my mind.

of course with yours being bust and mangled, the above may not work ..then i don't know.

if the things damaged..it needs to be replaced ..and you'll just have to take off whatever that requires

remember to support engine from above if mounts are on it ..cant remember don't think they are..4 x2 etc across the top of engine onto strut towers

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

Yes, but that means all the tracking will be knocked off and I was trying to avoid that. Maybe I should have just done it as the Ford T.I.S. does it and removed the rack with it.

Yes, I have put an engine beam across, the Ford manual never mentiones doing that, either! I put one on though as it seemed a bit odd not too.

I am going to remove all the bolts and see if I can lower and twist backward, the subframe, to try and loop the ant-roll-bar over the track rods.

[Boghopper]

I have removed the wishbones, in situ, and tried lowering and twisting backwards, the subframe with the steering locked to the approriate side. But there is not enough room between the upright, subframe, under-wing mount and the roll-bar, for even the track-rod to fit through. Total balls-up! The only other way to dop it is to remove the ant-roll-bar in situ and replace in situ. I will have to take a look at that, and see if the roll-bar bolts are easy to get at. Should have just drained the power-steering and done as the Ford manual states.

Are you on about the track-rod ends, or the actual rods? It is the actual rods that are trapped inbetween the anti-ropll-bar.

[metalworker0]

i don't know ..this is remote diagnostics ..i cant see how far you've got or what you've taken off and whats in the way, I know you'll never get it off with the rack still attached to the steering column.

and after a hit that's hard enough to damage the subframe , you are getting the tracking done afterwards

if time is on your side , not a work van, its not stopping you getting about or you can find alternative ways of getting about, My advice stop trying to take short cuts,. and look at every component you take off as time to service, clean or replace. to assure longevity of the van
That means every thing you do is a bonus to the van and ensures a long future for it.

Power steering oil ......this does have to be changed at least once to extend the life of the rack and the pump preferably before 100,000

You'll probably find it needs a whole host of things like bottom ball joints, wish bone bushings.
i know myself on mine that after 18 years and 138,000 miles the inner drive shafts were devoid of lubrication .....the grease had gone ..as the boots are never 100 percent grease tight.

if you are buying parts ...ford OE will be very expensive ..i know that Borg & Beck are as good as you are going to get after fords OE ..so stick to that brand ..they are priced very reasonably as well.

Just proceed without trying to work out short cuts ...that's why you are struggling ..if you struggle to get it out then you'll struggle to get it back

BTW the lifespan of those drumsticks ..is around about 100,000...they will probably never fail and MOT but it will be less precise when steered.

All these worn parts add up to a junker in the end if you don't keep on top of them.
one thing about yours is you've spent a lot of time on it already , making sure everything is right, just scanned all your postings ..the vans been worked on constantly ..I wouldn't want all that to go to waste.

all the best.mark