RETROFIT HEATED WINDSCREEN TO CONNECT LX MODELS 2003-2006

[paul2012]

still got this issue with these electric mirror not operating, tested the yellow orange still only low voltage 0.3v this is at the switch.
where does this wire run back to?? the fuse box or somewhere else.
Or should i just pull the dash out and trace it back??

See wiring diagram, the OG/YE wire is the 12v+ power feed to the mirrors it runs direct from the back of fuse panel (connector C15 pin 13) to the drivers door wiring loom connector on O/S A-pillar (connector C41 pin 12)

Unplug the drivers door loom plug from it's socket, located on O/S A- pillar (to disconnect the drivers door loom from socket twist the plug & it will disconnect).
Check to see if you get 12v+ from pin 12 on the driver door loom socket on O/S A-pillar - NOT the door loom plug - all the pins in the socket are clearly numbered

There's no need to remove the dash

see post here for all pinout details on both door loom sockets

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=111468&p=972435

[justyjust]

I have checked that before, but I will try again cannot remember what voltage I got. Only problem is trying to get to the pin socket, it's difficult to see what your doing with the door in the way.
Also you know the airbag cubin whole I stripped the wire there and it was 14v so it ok from the fuse. That orange and yellow wire leads to the lights switch, but no power there too.

Bloody nightmare this had been doing my head in for months, wish I could let it go but it pisses me off when you meant to have something and the Effing thing don't work.

[paul2012]

What year is your connect ?

On 2003-2006 connects there is no OG/YE running from fuse panel to light switch !

the only wire running from connnector C15 (pin 7) on back of fuse panel to light switch is GN/BK.

Follow these instructions step by step.



1. Remove glovebox completely
2. remove the 2 bolts securing fuse panel to dash support, remove fuse panel (you will be able to manoeuvre fuse panel to gain access to the back of it)
3. remove fuse F47 5A & check for 12V+ (Only one side will show 12v+ MAKE SURE IGNITION IS TURNED ON !), if ok refit fuse & move to next step
4. Locate connector C15 on back of fuse panel.
5. On connector C15 check to see if 12V+ is present at Pin 13 (MAKE SURE IGNITION IS TURNED ON !) - if ok move to nexted step.
6. Unplug drivers door wiring looms from connector C41 located on O/S A-pillar.
7. On Connector C41, check to for 12v+ on Pin 12 (MAKE SURE IGNITION IS TURNED ON !), if ok move to next step
8. inside drivers door unplug wiring loom from elec mirror switch - connector C741.
9. On the connector C741 check Pin 6 & check for 12v+ (MAKE SURE IGNITION IS TURNED ON !)

If you have 12v+ present at every step, then either the elec mirror switch is faulty or you have a bad earth connection for the mirrors !

[justyjust]

Followed your list and I only get 12v+ at the fuse behind the fuse and only 0.3v at the a pillar and mirror control.
Also that orange yellow wire you was talking about is here at the light switch, but no power going to it.

Thanks

[paul2012]

The OG/YE (pin 13) on connector C320 (headlamp switch) is for side lights (park lights) & also part of the DRL'S circuit (Day running lights) if fitted.

Friendly advise, there are several OG/YE wires in one wiring loom, & they are NOT connected together at any point !

THE OG/YE WIRE ON HEADLIGHT SWITCH HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH ELEC MIRRORS !

Unplug elec mirror switch & test again at all the points. If you are getting 12V+ at the fuse socket F47 but NOT getting 12v+ at pin 13 on connector C15 - then the fuse nust be blown (replace it with another one)

[justyjust]

I have taken the switch off and still no voltage apart from 0.3v, also replaced the fused noting still the same. Must be a break in the wire or something. But why would I get a 0.3v coming through or is that the reason why.

Thanks

[paul2012]

Firstly locate Pin 13 on the connector C15 on the back on fuse panel. It will have a OG/YE wire attached to it (look at diagrams on previous posts for location)

1. Connect black test probe from multmeter to a suiltable grounding point (earth). (the dash steel support will do)
2. Connect the red test probe to pin 13 on connector C15 on the back of fuse panel.
3. Finally make sure fuse F47 is in the panel & turn the ignition on & see the the multimeter gives a ready of 12v+ or more.

Do you get a 12v+ reading at this point ?

The best way to see if there is abreak in the wire, is to check for continuity.

MAKE SURE IGNITION IS OFF

Connect 1 multimeter test probe at the fuse socket F47 & the other probe to pin 6 (OG/YE) on the mirror switch plug.

set the meter to OHMS ( Ω setting on multimeter) it should read 0.000 - does it ? (only 1 of the 2 fuse socket terminals will give a read out of 0.000)

[justyjust]

the pin23 on c15 geta 14v + reading

I connected the multimeter to the both sockets of the fuse. one said 1- and the other come up as 0.96 the setting on the multimeter is 200m.
i do have a continuity setting on my meter but nothing comes up on either of the sockets..

[paul2012]

the pin23 on c15 geta 14v + reading

I connected the multimeter to the both sockets of the fuse. one said 1- and the other come up as 0.96 the setting on the multimeter is 200m.
i do have a continuity setting on my meter but nothing comes up on either of the sockets..

"the pin23 on c15 geta 14v + reading" ?

There is no Pin 23 on connector C15 - did you mean pin 13 ?

"come up as 0.96 the setting on the multimeter is 200m" is that with 1 test probe on elec mirror switch plug pin 6 & the other probe on one of the fuse f47 socket terminals ?

[justyjust]

yeah mate sorry meant pin 13 on the C15 i did get a 14v+ reading. and yes it come up with 0.96 from the socket to the electric mirror switch. i did take the switch off to do so though....

cheers

[paul2012]

It appeara that you may have a break in the wire from fuse panel to drivers door loom socket on A-pillar.

The easiet thing to do is :-

1. Get some suitable rated wire, At one end of the new wire splce it into the OG/YE wire connected to pin 12 on drivers door loom socket located in O/S A- pillar
2. Feed the wire behind to dash towards the fuse panel.
3. At the other end of new wire splice it into the OG/YE wire connected to pin 13 on connector C15 on back of fuse panel.
4. The retest for 12v+ on pin 6 for the elec mirror switch (make sure fuse F47 is in place & ignition is turned on), if you get 12v+ present at pin 6, then elec wing mirrors should work fine.

[justyjust]

I appricate all the help, I will run a new wire. Do you know how I get access to the back of the door socket? It's all behind all the steel chassis. Also last and final what amp wire should I buy??

Cheers justin

[justyjust]

Hi paul forget the last post done it, thanks for all the help. i pulled the socket out from under the dash, i though it may have broken close to the socket but it hadn't. could not see any signs of damage anywhere so i cut the wire close to the socket and the C15 Pin 13, i brought some 6 amp wire from Maplins and some heatshrink soldered it and tested. works perfectly no smoke or fires...

now its the heated windscreen

[paul2012]

Hi paul forget the last post done it, thanks for all the help. i pulled the socket out from under the dash, i though it may have broken close to the socket but it hadn't. could not see any signs of damage anywhere so i cut the wire close to the socket and the C15 Pin 13, i brought some 6 amp wire from Maplins and some heatshrink soldered it and tested. works perfectly no smoke or fires...

now its the heated windscreen

Nicely done

For the heated windscreen (if your van does not one fitted), See start of this thread for details

[justyjust]

been trying to work out the procedure but not to sure, can you list the process its a little easier for the simple people like myself.


cheers j