Changing Cam Belt

[Bonez]

Hi All

I have a 1.8TDCI T230 and have no cam belt history so after 5 years I think I ought to change the beast.

Just wondering if theres any useful shortcuts/tips/things I should know, which wont be found in the haynes manual.

Many thanks

[Jasonpaul]

They are all getting to the age where it's worth changing the wet belt as well if it hasn't already been done

[Bonez]

Thanks for that, just learnt what a wet belt is!

Watched a vid which looks reasonably straight forward. But whats it like to do in situ?

https://youtu.be/-l6-JUImJQw

[Jasonpaul]

[quote][/quot
Re: wet belt
Postby Piglet » Sun Nov 26, 2017 9:45 pm

Sounds like you've got it sussed, but I wrote notes on this when I did it if it helps:

Lower chain/wetbelt for Dummies

Postby Piglet » Mon May 09, 2016 12:35 pm

Forced by oil leaks I embarked on a strip down with a view to replace wet & dry belts.
Right or wrong, this is how I did it.

Bought 'Neilsen Timing Tool Set - Ford Chain Drive - CT4065' off Ebay, Miller tools 30 quid.
Made 4' long pulley holder from gas barrel & M10 bolts.
Modified 3" 3 leg bearing puller for cam sprocket. (proper one £17)

Jack front up high enough to work under and use long breaker bar etc.
O/S wheel off, arch trim & arch liner off. Arch trim has difficult clip at front.
Inner splash guard off, 2 bolts.

Intercooler & pipes off.
Loosen loom over rocker cover by unclipping & unplugging as required.
Rocker cover off, note 6mm slot at end of cam shaft.
19mm socket on crank pulley bolt, turn engine until locking plate can be slid into cam shaft slot.

Spanner on aux belt tensioner, rotate tensioner to slacken aux belt and remove belt.
A/C compressor off, 3 bolts remove connector, tie up out the way.
Alternator off, 2 bolts, tie up out the way.
Alternator bracket off, 5 bolts.
Starter off, 3 bolts, tie up out the way.
Remove timing hole plug bolt, insert threaded timing pin, advance crank until it touches.

Remove cam plate & timing pin
Loosen crank pulley bolt, home made pulley holder and 4' breaker bar. Fekin tight.
Before removing bolt, replace timing pin, reset crank and fit flywheel lock in starter hole, fit cam plate.
Remove pulley bolt, pulley slides off.

Jack & soft support pad/block under sump, take weight of O/S end of engine.
Move coolant header tank, 1 bolt & difficult clip, unclip pipes and drag tank over front out the way.
Unbolt P/S header tank and return pipe, PITA but can be pushed aside.
Remove: Engine mount nuts x 2, mount studs x 2 (8mm hex), mount from body x 2 bolts, mount from block x 4 bolts.
Remove cam belt cover, 4 bolts.
Remove cam belt tensioner, 1 x bolt. Remove belt
Remove cam sprocket, 1 x bolt and use puller to remove sprocket from taper.
Remove fuel pump sprocket, 3 x bolts and lever sprocket off with large screwdriver.
Remove back plate/seal, 7 x nuts.
Remove cam belt back plate, 3 x nuts.
Remove oil pump cover, 7 x studs & 12 x bolts. 2 studs snapped and had to be drilled out!
Note, small gasket/seal around pump cover centre stud, easily missed.

Having got it all apart the wetbelt was the chain which wasn't rattling so I left it.

Cleaned up all gasket faces and reassembled with new Ford genuine:-
Chain cover gasket
Pump pulley seal plate
Crank seal
Cam seal
Upper timing belt & tensioner
Crank pulley bolte]

[Jasonpaul]

Some good useful info if you search for wet belt like the above post

From those who know more than I do

[prof5]

I recently changed mine but I put a chain conversion on mine, don't like the wet belt idea, not to hard to do just takes a bit of time