Rusted out jacking point - MOT failure?

[metalworker0]

Mine has a row of holes all the way along the outer cills with rubber bungs in them. Every year I go along them all with a undersealing pot and blast oil, diesel and wax oil up in them.

Nice to see it spotted rather than a seam of bird-shite all along the join.

Zinc weld through primer is a new one to me, I shall get a tin of that, sounds handy.

it will be seam welded.

That plate is a backing plate, sill fits over it and butts up against the top half of the old sill.

The mot rules say that the sill has to be continuously seem welded - top sides ..and spot welded at the bottom

You need to put some holes and bungs into the inner sill as well ....because they are not accessible from outer side
those slotted holes you see are at the bottom of the inner sills .........they drain the outer and inner via folds of metal on the inner side ....if you could see them from your holes ..you could put a pipe down them but it would be hard to do .

[Smokedog]

I'm currently preparing my connect for an MOT after it failed the last as sills were rusted bad. Patched one inner sil and seam welded this completely. Have replaced the complete outer sill as requested and seam welded top and sides but have only spot welded the bottom. Anyone recommend the distance between spot welds as my outer middle and inner was rusted rotten and couldn't even identlfy the old spot welds?

[metalworker0]

I'm currently preparing my connect for an MOT after it failed the last as sills were rusted bad. Patched one inner sil and seam welded this completely. Have replaced the complete outer sill as requested and seam welded top and sides but have only spot welded the bottom. Anyone recommend the distance between spot welds as my outer middle and inner was rusted rotten and couldn't even identlfy the old spot welds?

i put them 1 inch apart, this is probably overkill, you'll always have some that are not as good ..or have not achieved full penetration (because you could be welding on to galvanised metal or rust or wind blow and ruins weld ..or the panels could not be pulled together enough, so its not as good ...so that's why mine were done that way .

On the bottom i was moving my clamps and tightening down to each side of the spot weld hole as i went along ...if you don't do that the seem at the bottom may be open and let water lodge in it or the spot fails because of the gap

Align the top first so both old and new meet with a strait edge plonked on them, use loads of magnets to keep that edge true (i used large .neodymium magnets bought off amazon - these look the same cant give you exact ones as friend bought them https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08GNYZWTV? ... a694d1277f ).
Alignment - my backing plate helps with this ....also strengthens the join ..as you will be removing metal on the welds with grinding after ..and may make the ridiculously thin panels even thinner!

When top is aligned - This may result in the bottom that needs the spots, being away from the area it needs to close up to.
Don't do the spot welds until most of the seams are done along the top ..or when you press the panel in it will try and hinge - another reason for the backing plate

its a case of weighing it up and looking at what does what and when, when you align things up.

all the best.mark

[Smokedog]

Thanks for the pointers bud, good idea would rather have too many spot welds than not enough and it's a hell if a lot better than having to seam weld along the the bottom lip too