Diesel Leak - Subframe Area

[pl01]

Hello All,

Have noticed diesel dripping around subframe of fuel pipe side on the large diameter (flow) pipe. My suspicion is there is a pin hole fracture in the area where it transitions from underbody to engine bay under the sub frame. Has anyone else experienced this on Mk1 connect? This must be a small hole as the discharge is very small but still making a mess under the van.

I haven't investigated any further than this, but suspect I will have to drop the subframe to put a new fuel line in. Is it acceptable to put a splice in or would it be a breakers yard to try and get a new line. Or can the steel line be cut and joined with a reinforced rubber line at the point of failure?

I was also experiencing some hesitation when accelerating hard, I am now wondering if air is being pulled in after noticing this, would explain the hesitation.

[metalworker0]

You'll have to check properly with engine running where the leak is coming from .. and yes if there is a leak there is possibility that air is getting in .
I dont think you are going to be dropping the subframe .

i found this on this site about how to tell if air is getting into the system, its from the ford manual

A1: CHECK FOR AIR INGRESS INTO THE FUEL SYSTEM
CAUTION:
CAUTION:The generator must be protected from contamination. Failure to follow this instruction may cause premature failure of the generator
1
Protect the generator with lint-free material to prevent contamination (vehicles with 2.0 L diesel engine).
2
Using a suitable piece of clear plastic pipe, manufacture a pipe that may be installed between the fuel injection pump and the fuel filter return line.
3
Install the clear plastic pipe between the fuel injection pump and the fuel injection pump to fuel filter return line.
4
Start the engine, wait a few minutes and then visually observe the clear plastic pipe for signs of air ingress.
Are any signs of air present in the clear plastic pipe?
Yes
GO to A2. .
No
REMOVE the clear pipe and CONNECT the fuel return line to the fuel injection pump. For additional diagnostics for Fuel Charging and Controls REFER to Section [long list here]

A2: CHECK WHERE AIR IS ENTERING THE SYSTEM
1
Using suitable clean engine oil, apply the oil to each of the fuel supply and fuel return connections, unions and joints in turn and observe the clear pipe for visible signs of air after each oil application.
Did the amount air in the clear plastic pipe decrease when any of the connectors, unions or joints were oiled?
Yes
REPAIR the connector(s) or union(s) in question. Test the system for normal operation.
No
GO to A3. .

A3: CHECK THE FUEL FILTER HOUSING FOR SIGN OF AIR INGRESS
1
Ignition switch in position 0.
2
Disconnect the fuel injection pump return line from the fuel filter and the fuel filter to fuel tank return line.
3
Using a suitable connector, connect the fuel injection pump return line to the fuel filter to fuel tank return line.
4
Start the engine and observe the clear plastic pipe for visible signs of air.
Did the air decrease in the clear plastic pipe?
Yes
Air ingress is at the fuel filter or housing. REPAIR or INSTALL a new fuel filter or housing as necessary. Test the system for normal operation.
No
INSTALL a new fuel level sensor.

[pl01]

If I was to replace the fuel line in its entirety you have to drop the sub frame partially.

My preferred option is to cut the metal fuel line just after the body clip prior to the subframe, use a reinforced rubber hose to replace the cut section, hose clamp each end. But I'm not sure if this would be acceptable for the MOT. I would be looking at 10mm ID & 18mm OD for the rubber pipe so quite an increase from 13mm of the steel line. Its hopeful with the splicing method that I would not need to touch the subframe.

[metalworker0]

Yes had a look .
the pipes are not replaceable unless the subframe is undone .

you could get away with threading the brake pipes through ..but not the large fuel pipes

better ask an MOT station before you do what your going to do .
but first check its not coming from anywhere else .
i see four pipes
two are brake pipes
the other two must be fuel delivery and return - one large one smaller.

Don't know if any brake flaring tool covers the large one its about 12mm .......then you would need the correct couplings and nipples

the smaller one is i think 5/16" / 8mm and is covered in some brake flaring sets not all - ps the only sets worth buying are sykes pickavant and Ratcliffe.
for one that contains the 5/16ths - they are the higher end sets that cover 3/16/ 4.75mm, 5/16/8mm, 1/4/6mm 3/8/ 10mm

if stuck i can supply adaptor that converts old sykes to new style flaring punches that are readily available £30 includes 5/16 op1 and op2 inc postage

[pl01]

Thanks for the reply, I have the professional set of sykes I will check to see if 1/2" is in there. I put a Vernier on the large its 13mm.

Will check with the MOT station to see their view on splicing with rubber.

[metalworker0]

these are 1/2 flaring punches if you have the larger sykes bench mounted machine

eBay listings

where the unions are i don't know

another idea maybe because its 13mm solder on or connex pipe connector (plumbing) if you could get one, they seem to come in 8mm 10mm 15mm 22mm though .. but that would be accepted

[pl01]

Just been to visit my local MOT chaps, put it on the ramps and can see its heavily corroded in the plastic clip under the sub frame. He said no issue with rubber but looking under the ramp space is too tight to get a rubber through I believe. I will check with a main dealer for a price.

Failing that I will explore the flaring options. My kit has both 12mm & 1/2" dies.

[pl01]

£55 for a new line, which is probably going to be the easiest option given the 13mm OD of the line as can't find unions which given the OD are going to be bulky as hell if they do exist. Buying copper pipe and unions is probably going to come to that total anyway.

[metalworker0]

£55 for a new line, which is probably going to be the easiest option given the 13mm OD of the line as can't find unions which given the OD are going to be bulky as hell if they do exist. Buying copper pipe and unions is probably going to come to that total anyway.

£55 seams to cheap for ford, i would expect £199 or something very high .. make sure they are ordering the right part

[pl01]

Yes its a genuine part from ford main dealer & 100% correct fitment. My only concern is what this pipe will look like after DPD treatment!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273525280995 ... %7Ciid%3A1

[metalworker0]

Yes its a genuine part from ford main dealer & 100% correct fitment. My only concern is what this pipe will look like after DPD treatment!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273525280995 ... %7Ciid%3A1

i would not like to make that choice there are two that look identical on the diagram but one is feed one is return

https://ford.7zap.com/en/transport/121/ ... 766/81962/

[pl01]

Yes feed is required which is what I have ordered.

[pl01]

Update: Pipe easily removed by loosening sub frame bolts and manoeuvring pipe out. The old pipe wasn't actually corroded it had been rubbing on the body, causing a pin sized hole. I noticed the new pipe had additional rubber protection in the failure area. This needed to be done on my vehicle as it was leaking fuel, unfortunately it did not solve the hesitation issue.

[metalworker0]

That's good, that the pipe issue is fixed ..don't know about the hesitation ..
Must have a look at my pipe now , make sure its got the rubber ..or make something for it .

[pl01]

The original pipes had a foam pad over the contact areas, this had just disintegrated on mine and rubbed through, ford obviously aware with the design improvement. As for the hesitation issue I am at a loss as no fault codes are generated but is actually quite dangerous on slip roads etc. I think is either a pump or injector issue, but would have hoped a fault code would have been generated. Both components are expensive fixes so reluctant to start playing parts darts.