EGR Value - Error Code P0490

[TurboGandalf]

Hi Guys,

I have tried searching the forums for an answer on this issue I am faching (besides blanking the EGR which I dont want to do) but could not find one, hoping to get some help.

I bought a 2007 Ford Transit Connect SWB with plans to convert it into a small camper for short to meduim trips around the country. Driving it home and a drivetrain warning message pops up on dashboard, which turned out to be a P0490 error code when I plugged in the OBD2 scanner tool.

So did some goog'ling and youtub'ing and here is what I have done so far to try and fix the issue (with no success):

1 - Opened up the EGR unit (which splits in two). The lifting pin is not broken, so cleaned it out properly and it rotates very easily when moving it with my finger - Error still pops up after clearing codes
2 - Cleaned out the actuator part of the unit. The flap that opens and closes does so but with a little bit of resistance. I assume this is from the spring that is connected to it. I even bought the new actuator part and it opens and closes with the same force. - Error still pops up after clearing codes
3 - Sprayed in Wynns and Liqui Moly EGR cleaner into the air intake and took van for a 1hr 20 min drive on motorway. What I noticed is that on the motorway no EML light, but in town it pops up.

Also another thing I did was I left both parts of the EGR unit open and started up the van to see what happens. The lifting pin automatically rotates from horizontal to verticle as soon as the van fires up. Is this supposed to happen right away or should the pin only turn when the other half of the egr unit (the black flap thing) rotates and causes the pin to rotate as it has a slot for the pin to sit in. Also when running the van, I did see the actuator does not turn when i rev the engine and then let it settle back.

I am not too sure what to do next. I have read that I could take out the manifold and clear it out. Never done any mechanical work on a car, but I am up for it, but I know this will be a big job.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on what I could do? I dont want to blank the EGR valve, but rather want it to work as expected.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

[Boghopper]

P0490: Exhaust gas recirculation control circuit high

I had this for three years, In the end I rebuilt the valve inside, but that never fixed it. To fix it I had to replace the actuator and then it went away.

Before you go to all the trouble of removing your manifold you should at least eliminate the actuating motor, could save you a lot of time and mental trauma, that could lead to a nervous breakdown trying to undo the manifold bolts.:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324380281219 ... BMrMnl1Plg

I have, ever since this episode blanked the valve, I was dubious at first but have had absolutely no ill effets in three or four years. My flexi hose snapped a few weeks back and I have had to cut the pipe just below the Cat. I was suprised how clean it looked when looking up the exhaust pipe.

[TurboGandalf]

P0490: Exhaust gas recirculation control circuit high

I had this for three years, In the end I rebuilt the valve inside, but that never fixed it. To fix it I had to replace the actuator and then it went away.

Before you go to all the trouble of removing your manifold you should at least eliminate the actuating motor, could save you a lot of time and mental trauma, that could lead to a nervous breakdown trying to undo the manifold bolts.:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324380281219 ... BMrMnl1Plg

I have, ever since this episode blanked the valve, I was dubious at first but have had absolutely no ill effets in three or four years. My flexi hose snapped a few weeks back and I have had to cut the pipe just below the Cat. I was suprised how clean it looked when looking up the exhaust pipe.

Thanks for the reply... I am going to try again with another Actuator and see if this fixes the problem. Yesterday I did test the volts coming from the plug connected to the actuator and some pins were showing a voltage reading, so I assume the wiring is fine.

I really dont want to go down the manifold route so may end up blanking it as I have been thinking more and more about this.

[Boghopper]

The state of the feed to the E.G.R. motor is of no importance if the actual circuitry within the motor is knackered. As mentioned above, only replacing the actual Valve motor solved mine. It was nowt to do with the actual valve or the feed to the actuator.

[TurboGandalf]

The state of the feed to the E.G.R. motor is of no importance if the actual circuitry within the motor is knackered. As mentioned above, only replacing the actual Valve motor solved mine. It was nowt to do with the actual valve or the feed to the actuator.

Yes your are right...

I came across this short video on yourtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNmaR9y0h70 showing how the actuator should be working when apart. Do you reckon this is a good indicator? My origional actuator did not do this nor did the new one when ordered, so I guess I need to buy another and try.

Also.. I assume if it is a good way to test the actuator, it would move upon acceleration or when the revs drop back down?

Thanks

[Boghopper]

I don't know as I never went into it all, to that sort of depth. I just purchased new one, replaced the old one with it and that was that. I have always tried to work to the theory of a 'process of elimination'.

[TurboGandalf]

Hi All,

Just an update. I installed another EGR valve and so far the EML light has not come back on. The Drivetrain warning light does come on, but it never moves onto an EML light. The van runs fine with no limp mode or hesitation. Only on start up, it struggles a little but is okay once its running for a minute or so...

I bought the EGR valve from here:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165065465455

They were super helpful and sent out another unit when I told them the initial one did not work with no need to retrun the first one.

[ghettochilds]

In all honesty I went through the exact process of faults.

The simplest solution was to delete the dpf and the egr with a stage one map. Never had a problems since.

P.s I didn't blanked off the egr just gutted out the dpf filter set me back £300.00.