Oh dear, over heating and fed up.

[2013ConnectLWB]

Used to run an 08 transit connect, 250,000 miles never missed a beat, so when I needed another LWN+B, Hi Roof, a 2013 was the ideal choice. 178k miles, mint condition, well looked after and serviced.

Been stood for nearly two years, but now starts and runs on the button.

Bloody thing over heats, so I've followed the following procedure:

1. Complete flush using hose pipe pressure, was full of rusty water, cleaned out, drained and flushed.
2. Air pressure blown down through the spanny tank feeds (2 pipes) to ensure clean.
2. New water pump (metal impeller, rad thermostat and new abs casing.
3. New radiator (was fitted before I bought the van)
4. Filled with just anti-freeze, pink and clean.

Car warms up, then goes to Hot, then drops back to normal, then hot again. Under marginal load.
Cab heater wont blow hot air.

Van up on ramps.
Popped each heater hose off so I could test for fluid, every joint had fresh anti-freeze, both flow and return through the heater matrix, through the egr cooler and the oil cooler at the back.
The thermo housing bubbled some air, then fluid.
The steel Y piece under the thermo housing that connects to the bottom of the rad and then a steel pipe that runs behind the block, anti-clockwise, all have fluid.

Topped the spanny tank up and noticed small bubbles so presumed maybe a head gasket, ran a sniff test for 15mins and remained blue. Blew through the trap to test the fluid and it immediately went yellow, so presume no co2.

There's no real pressure in the top radiator hose, gets hot and you can squeeze forcing fluid back in to the spanny tank.

Thought maybe the egr cooler was leaking (def flow of fluid through it) so i blanked it off both ends using egr blanking plates. (Cheaper than buying a new egr cooler). I also topped up the cooler pipes with anti-freeze to try and eliminate any air pockets (given thats a high point).

Cannot get the heater warming up, and it stop over heating.

Guessing my cab heater now wont heat up as the egr is blocked off, but guessing. Would hope heat is fed from more than just the cooler though.

Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the cooling system they could kindly share. Its doing my head in.

Vans not used much and runs a dream, apart from this annoying issue.

[metalworker0]

Did you mention changing the thermostat

BTW - there are a couple of designs of the stat and stat housing on the 1.8

some that close off passages or open them ..that being the bypass hoses that usually supply the heater and actual thermostats that have extension bits on them that close or open the passages

Don't ask me which is which or which year has which etc ,.,.,,because i don't know.

There are also A few alternative directions routes/ destinations of the hose coming out of the back of the passenger side of the cylinder head.

if someone had got this wrong , put the wrong housing on ..wrong stat in it the right housing ..or this hose thing confused.

if that helps you at all

best compare with the same year, engine size, horse power and TDCI / TDDI - which you've not mentioned yet!


i don't have the manual , only haynes ...if that haynes had been written before 1985 ish ..it would have in it every conceivable layout of the cooling system..not like that now.

i have a tddi 1.8 75hp...that has different layout to any other..if its that one, i can help with pics, if not its up to others here to take pics

all the best.mark

[Altransit]

1.8?
There used to be a restrictor within one of the small pipes feeding/exiting the header tank. This used to cause flow problems, and overheating

[2013ConnectLWB]

Brill, thank you.
1.8 TDCi T230 Trend L3 H3 4dr DPF (based on AutoTrader.co.uk look up).

This is the thermostat housing I purchased, came complete with a stat.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171717146400

The small pipes seem to freely allow fluid to flow both ways, and I cleaned them both out with max 0.5 bar of air.

There must be a blockage, either crud or rust in a run of pipe or chamber I have missed when last flushed.

[metalworker0]

1.8 TDCi T230 - ...no good me taking pictures then

Generally, water being flushed through it in both directions is more effective than air.

I don't know what to suggest next as you have done everything. well nearly everything

well the only thing left is a compression test. with a compression tester

A leak down test (involved on a diesel , easy on petrol) ..and that's not a fuel injector leak down. this is an adaptor that screws into the, sparkplug hole, glow plug hole or injector hole ..you attach air line with gauge to it, whilst cylinder at top dead centre ...turn up pressure and isolate from compressor, then listen and watch pressure.

Then there is a coolant system pressure tester, a device that screws onto the header tank that you pump up with hand pump ..to something like 15 psi ..if it does not hold that pressure, it's escaping somewhere ..head gasket into cylinders etc.


Did you join the hoses together that supply the EGR cooler with coolant? EGRS coolers can leak internally and put exhaust pressure into the coolant...but at higher rpm, not tickover ..and Become even more effective at putting pressure into the coolant when DPF is blocked or partially blocked .


as regards heater , this may be entirely separate issue related to the valve and how its attached or not attached to the control knob.
and if it has AC related to blend door actuator motor
all the best.mark

[2013ConnectLWB]

Cheers Mark.
EGR blanked off so it’s basically just a tube with no gas pressure.
I may take out the thermostat and see if that does anything.
I’m also going to buy one of those pressure testers, thanks for the heads up there, see how that goes I think

[metalworker0]

If you take out the thermostat in the summer it will show something, in the winter, especially how it is now, it will result in bad running, the needle on gauge not getting above the first line, high fuel consumption and in the end gradual engine and turbo damage from the oil not getting hot and thinning out.

Normal running on mine in this weeks weather (-1c to 6c) it will take at least 5 miles to reach operating temperature and that's with the thermostat fitted, so not a good time to run tests.

all the best.mark

[2013ConnectLWB]

Cheer, so better I'm running hot than cold - its a new thermostat, but appreciate new things can be faulty too.
I'm going to flush the system again with hose pipe from every joint I can get to, in both directions.
Then I'm going to hunt down an exploded diagram and post on here for ever and ever!

[metalworker0]

when you do the flushing, don't forget to leave heater control knob on hot (if its working)

Yeah, good luck with finding the diagrams, I'm constantly on the look out and find very little,
"
may help, to tell you, by Ford its referred to as Endura DI" , "Lynx" and "DURATORQ"

lots of diagrams of components .. I cant find coolant direction or flow diagrams , coolant circuit diagrams. which would be handy.


all the best.mark

[Altransit]

"
may help, to tell you, by Ford its referred to as Endura DI" , "Lynx" and "DURATORQ"

[2013ConnectLWB]

Well a day flushing all pipes back and forth, it’s not warm out either!
Took the thermostat out.
Fans haven’t been running, fed a live direct from the battery and they both spin like a good one, then found this odd little resistor on the rad - it looks goosed, any ideas how to check it’s working?
Part number 8390073.

Would add photos but don’t have remote hosting.

Could I just loop the connector to get the fans running?

[metalworker0]

I could be wrong - think it's there to give the fan two speeds

through the resistor is slow and not through the resistor is high speed.

all the best.mark