Transit connect 2020 exhaust pressure quesition

[Jet777]

Hi

Im having DPF issues with my 2020 1.5L eco blue Transit connect. I've had it cleaned, replaced the boost hose up to now and almost about to replace the DPF.

I am getting the generic P2002 fault.

I noticed my exhaust pressure is constantly reading 327kpa regardless of engine on or off or any engine speed.

Could any confirm on their transit what readings they are getting for exhaust pressure. And does any one know where the pressure sensor is if there is one? I disconnected the sensor connected to the DPF but the only reading that went was the DPF inlet pressure, the exhaust pressure just stayed constant.

Any help is appreciated.

[metalworker0]

well the kpa is a reading I'm not familiar with, cant you change it to percentage ... as that's all in familiar with

As a percentage ... 45 percent is what i believe is what it regards as time to regenerate .. 85 percent is regarded as full and the fault light comes up.

if its stuck at 350kpa with engine off then its a fault with the pressure sensor,


Here's my pre-written explanation on how the dpf works and a link to O'Rileys

You can watch half a dozen of O'Rileys videos on youtube ..he's the guru of DPF problems on transits..

https://www.youtube.com/@ORileysAutos/videos

The DPF problems

To get to the route of this
You must have plug in diagnostic scanner though ..or you just cant do it ..
They recommend "Forscan" which is free software that you download to a laptop..you buy the interface cable
You must join the forscan forum ..again free, to get the software and more answers.

https://forscan.org/forum/

To give you some knowledge

The monitoring system has two pressure sensors one before the DPF and one after.
The one after will be reading a little greater than atmospheric pressure, when running, the one before will be a bit greater than that one .. when you have a brand new DPF because of a little bit of back pressure from the core.

As the DPF gets full of soot,, the sensor "before" measures a greater pressure.than the one after. the program in the ecu calculates what the difference is between both sides. as a percentage.
The program knows when the difference between one side and the other exceeds certain values ..it then activates the DPF regeneration.
if the difference is beyond when this can happen, it puts up a fault code . it will probably lead to check engine light and limited acceleration.

Failed regeneration's can be caused by vaporiser blockage..too many short trips or a DPF that is totally blocked... the vaporiser is as fuel injector type device that squirts neat diesel into or before the DPF ..it raises the temperature so that soot is burnt off .
There is also a temperature monitor ..so the ecu knows it is regenerating or if this has failed to happen or if its at too higher temperature ..in which case it shuts down the process, to stop it damaging the DPF .. leading to more codes and errors.

As mentioned watch Videos on youtube by "O'Riley's autos" he tells you how to get around all problems with DPFs , shows you cleaning methods and shows you how to interoperate what your scanner is showing ..how to force regeneration ..the pitfalls, the do's and the don'ts . as well as vaporiser servicing.

Diagrams of typical systems will be found with a google search.

Other things that can cause DPF blocking too soon are

Worn out engine that is using oil

Turbo charger that on its way out and leaking oil (caution can lead to diesel runaway)

Fuel injectors that are not performing

Boost pipe leaks - which upsets maf sensor and then it over fuels

O'Rileys videos teach you how to do a rough clean out of the DPF with chemicals before a forced regeneration


all the best.mark

[RadioSurfer]

Hello,

I was about the ask the same question, and came across this thread from 6 months ago.

Excellent response, and useful info. by the way from MetalWorker. I have watched several of O’Rileys videos and noted some key values.

I’ve been looking into an issue with my 2020 1.5 Ecoblue Connect which is failing to carry out an active regeneration. I asked a question about the conditions required for a regen to be initiated a few weeks back, and after much research have got pretty much the parameters, but not all the values. I’m now about to try and record what the van is actually recording with the relevant PIDs, whilst driving to see if I can understand what’s happening. I’m not sure what I’ll use yet, possibly Forscan Lite via an iPad. I don’t have a windows laptop, and no intention of getting one. If that doesn’t work, I’ll look at a generic OBD2 fault code reader that can record the relevant parameters.

So, for the issue I have (no active generation being initiated), one of the key parameters used to activate the regeneration process is the dpf inlet back pressure (not just the differential pressure). Looking at one of O’Rileys videos for the same van, he shows a van with a blocked dpf recording around 200kpa at 3,000 rpm going down to about 80 kpa once cleaned out. At idle, after cleaning, it was about 8 to 16 kpa. He does note that Connects with this engine the pressure does jump about quite a bit, but that is normal.

Therefore, somewhere between 8 kpa and 200 kpa, the system decides the dpf inlet back pressure is too high. Anyone know the correct normal range is.

Cheers, Richard

[RadioSurfer]

PS. Just rechecked the pressures quoted above as they looked high, and noted that in O’Rileys videos, the screen he shows when doing live data on both the Launch and KingBolen OBD2 tools both show the unit of measure in the description lines as kPa, even though he had selected hPa as his unit of measure. So my figures are a factor of ten out!

So, my previous post should state, the blocked dpf at 3,000 rpm was 200hPa, which dropped to about 80hPa when cleared and 8 to 16hPa when idling.

Apologies for confusion.

Cheers, Richard.

[metalworker0]

I've given as much as i can ..I have no more knowledge, the knowledge you require will come from an owner of a 1.5 connect of around the same year, from someone who even bothers to notice and note what's going on. (if they can be bothered to answer here) I don't have the 1.5 workshop manual or know if the information is in there.

i do have the ecoblue transit custom 2.0l manual ..you can look in there for fords explanation... if its there, i'm sure it will be regenerating by the same rules.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/186PZYm ... sp=sharing

ive had a look through it using the words "Diesel Particulate Filter" and DPF .. all i could find is how to remove and install it

i think these workshop manuals have sections written by different people, some write in a very detailed and helpful way .. some don't ... for example, most manuals have a very (EXTREMELY) detailed HVAC section, but are lacking in other areas,


all the best.mark

[RadioSurfer]

Thanks Mark,

Much appreciated, that is one heck of a book. I’ll see if I can find anything in it. I sense your frustration at others not offering much help. I suppose that’s the nature of forums, lots want help, but only a few offer help.

I ended up buying a mid range scanner recommended on the ORiley videos. I couldn't get Forscan Lite in the end as you can’t get the licence. Lots of people say you don’t need one, but you have to pay for Lite either by the download or licence way. Although it’s still on Apple Store, when you come to pay the £6.00 or whatever it is, the payment fails. And I don’t want to buy an old laptop just to get the full version. At least I can use the scanner I’ve bought on my other non Ford cars/van. I didn’t realsise Forscan came from Russia, hence the difficulties.

One thing I've learnt of late. Garages including Ford dealerships struggle with diagnostics. I really wonder whether all these sensors really add any value in the long run. There seems to be a belief you just plug in a scanner, and hey presto, the idiots guide to fixing comes out the other end. Bring back my 45 year old Land Rover, never let me down, simple to fix.

I’m still optimistic, it doesn’t seem that difficult to get to the bottom of this issue. But, there’s enough folks spending fortunes at garages these days having components changed at horrendous prices, hoping one day to find the faulty bit.

Cheers, Richard.

[metalworker0]

My first job was in a garage at age 16 under the "youth opportunities scheme",. i was there to learn to be mechanic, but ended up spending most of my time in the bodywork department, or detailing cars, i was edged along, told that .."we will be sending you to college" .. "we will be training you up" .. and worked hard as a result , only to be told when my six months was up, i was finished... i was to be replaced by another government "free labour" trainee. i learned quite a lot there, despite what their idea of learning was, was always hovering over them when engines were being rebuilt, always asking questions, even then most mechs were saying ... this is a bad trade to be in, and generally not happy .. that's then in 1978.
Put in the same position again at 16 today, i think i would have lasted as a trainee mechanic 1 month only before i realised, what an awful job it is ... you're not only learning mechanicals .. but all this diagnostic stuff, electronics...and at college massive amount concerned with microsoft word stiff goes on .. it would have been brain overload for me .. and I'd be off , never to return.. would not surprise me that dealership trainees only last a few months before they realise: this is far to much to take onboard for far too little money .. and they are off to work at McDonald's,where life is simpler and pay the same !.... i just cant quite imagine the quality of trainees they are left with.

Note i was taught in school .. in metalwork and woodwork and technical drawing (pencil in those days) which i excelled at , ... so already had some skill before i was 16 .. they don't get that these days. as all school tech departments closed down!

and all you had to deal with ion 1978 was: points. timing and a coil and alternator and starter, as far as electronics was concerned.. very simple!

all the best.mark

[RadioSurfer]

Funny how things work out. You are clearly very hands on battling with the computer world, whilst I made a career out of computing and missed out on the mechanical side. The world has and is changing, my friend who works at Rolls-Royce wouldn't know a spanner if it fell on him, and I’ve changed light bulbs for him in the past.

Different times….

Cheers, Richard.

[metalworker0]

OH forgot to tip --as regards kpa ./. when doing these diagnostics .. is the atmosphere is already at 101 KPa - 1 bar - 14.5 psi

so sometimes you have to factor that in when its showing results .. ask yourself does it include atmospheric pressure . and would percentages empty to full, help you more

All the best.mark

[RadioSurfer]

Well the sun was out yesterday, and a glorious day so an ideal time to try and sort this Connect out.

My new diagnostic tool had arrived, a Thinkpad 689BT, and confirmed two issues. First one was a mass airflow error, the second was a particle filter restriction. The same errors two garages have looked at, the last one the van was with them for a week, with no conclusions other than it could be thousands to fix, by replacing one component after another.

So, I decided, to have a go myself. Not having much experience, I decided just to work my way through the process from air inlet through to the exhaust. Within 30 seconds, I was scratching my head thinking this can’t be right, but surely this isn't the answer. The top of the air filter box, was loose, not clipped on with a 1/2” or more air gap all the way round. So I clipped that on, and sealed the gap.

I wasn’t sure, well confident enough, to clean out the dpf. Although I’ve watched O’Riley do it, and reset learned values. So my neighbour who used to teach apprentice mechanics went through the process, just as Jimmy does on O’Riley’s videos with no forced regen needed.

All readings came back to an acceptable range. This time the dpf inlet pressure was down to 10hpa (millibars), at idle and about 40hpa (millibars) at 3,000 rpm, although the reading does jump about quite a bit. But, according to O’Riley, these 1.5 engines do just that.

A long mixed traffic test run, has so far been positive. Fingers crossed, for the next longer run over the weekend.

Could it be as simple as that? The cover was probably removed by the second garage a month ago when they fitted a new battery. It looks like you would have to remove it for access. I’m hoping the explanation for my issues, is that the mass air flow issue would have set off the first error code, which then prevented the dpf performing a regeneration. One of the conditions for a regen being no active emissions related codes.

I’ll report back, how things go.

Cheers, Richard.

[metalworker0]

Without seeing the air box lid, not owning one of these , i cant really say.
was having trouble understanding the values, so put the question into google as regards air filter or not.

Clean/New Filter: Generally low, often in the range of 10–30 mbar depending on engine load.
Dirty/Restricted Filter: Manufacturers may consider a 50 mbar drop to be high, with 100–120 mbar being the max limit before immediate replacement is necessary.
Effect of Clogging: An increase of 10 kPa (100 mbar) causes about a 1% increase in energy consumption.


i thought the whole idea of the maf was to measure changes and adjust fueling .. so open air filter would be compensated and clogged would be compensated up to a point. plus atmospheric pressure and different altitudes and temperature .

so what im saying is a correctly working maf sensor should compensate for your air box being open

and a soot making over fueling issue would be down to egr problems or boost pipe leak or dodgy maf sensor

and another thing .. reading all this again - the ranges

kpa readings are dpf readings
hpa are maf readings

all the best.mark

[RadioSurfer]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for your input, and help so far.

It was never going to be that simple, but I lived in hope. Warnings lights back on, but now I have my new toy, I can read the fault codes properly. And, after much research reading and filtering out the good information from the bad, I’ve got a complete picture of the emissions system from air inlet to exhaust pipe outlet, along with part numbers, how to test, clean etc etc.

One thing that surprised me, was how little there is on the later 1.5 Ecoblue Connects. Even with these, the versions changed about 2018/19. So you have to be careful what you rely on.

I’m taking the van to a garage tomorrow, with some decent kit, and more importantly an understanding of how to diagnose, and interpret error codes. I’ve visited a few to ask them if they are familiar with the engine, and how they diagnose problems. I’m pretty sure now what the issue is, but will see what the guy at the garage thinks. I’ve told him, I don’t want the “could be this, could be that approach”.

Even my local Fords dealership spares chap gave me some really good insight by telling me some of the parts people think are one thing, but are actually something completely different. And he told me which parts are the big sellers, v rare. That's pretty useful to focus attention as well.

I’ll update as things progress.

Cheers, Richard.

[RadioSurfer]

Oh, and NEVER perform a forced regen on the dpf’s fitted to this van, and other vehicles that use the same dpf. There was a recall on 2018 and prior due to poor manufacturing resulting in fractures of the core, and the core separating from the casing, which is only aggravated by a forced regen. Post 2019 are a better design, but still not great.

[metalworker0]

Also you could have a throttle body in the inlet, when this goes wrong .. there isn't much info on the problems to look for, when this happens .. nothing . no info , very little

and to compound things .. in forscan it lists throttle .. but does not tell you if its the accelerator pedal or the body.

so i imagine myself, if that is playing up, it will have a major influence on the fueling..
Note: i think its another gizmo with plastic gears
same as the variable vane turbo .. once these items play up .. gears stripped, slipping Etc .. its very difficult to diagnose .... without pulling them apart.
For piece of mind I would be pulling them apart .

all the best.mark

[RadioSurfer]

Well,

After much investigation, an eventual conclusion has been reached and confirmed by a tailpipe analyser, the dpf is cracked internally.

I suspected this for a while but various garages wanted to change this that and the other, completely ignoring the victorian chimney amount of soot in the tailpipe. Most just shrugged and said that’s normal for a diesel. That’s despite me showing them my Mercedes van exhaust with twice the mileage and a Euro 5, being as clean as a whistle.

So, pointless money on a couple of new sensors, but now the big expense, a new dpf. The joys of motoring eh?

Interesting how Jimmy O’Riley regards the dpf on a Connect as not fit for purpose. But, having done some more research it seems that dpf’s prior to 2018/19 did have a manufacturing issue, and were covered by a Ford recall. In theory, my later van should be of the “better build quality”. Hence, unfortunately, not covered. I’m sure this dpf was used on other vehicles such as the Kuga, and probably many other models.

This also explains why my dpf was never performing a regen.

I’ve learned a heck of a lot in the past month, and will do a more detailed write up in a separate post of the Connect exhaust system, diagnosis, and part numbers to help the next person who might go through this and avoid some of my expensive learnings. I suspect a lot of these vans will start to suffer similar issues as they approach 5 years old, and 100,000 miles as the big fleet owners start selling them off.

It’s not going to be cheap, but at least I’m not in the camp of those that have bought expensive cars, Audi Q5, Range Rovers etc that all have the same issues, but costing ten times the repair bills.

Cheers, Richard.