Mk1 Euro 3 Turbo Actucator Operation Pressure

[pl01]

Hi all,

I'm having acceleration issues when joining dual carriageways etc.....I think this issue is due to the turbo actuator, after investigating I am finding I need to apply around 20 psi to get the actuator to move, I have lubricated and checked the linkage / operation but this appears very stiff even when I operate with a lever so I think possibly at fault. I would assume I should see some movement around 7 psi, does anyone know what pressure the actuator should operate at?

Thanks.

[metalworker0]

from the manual

at 3000 rpm its 0.5 bar

that's all there is on testing the pressures. for 1.8 - no HP / PS given... just that for all 1,8 engines

Note also: an open or stuck EGR will loose all the pressure, cracks or hole in boost pipes will loose pressure

all the best.mar,

[pl01]

Thanks for the response, so my assumption was correct around 7psi.

The egr is blocked off.

I attached a vac / pressure pump to the actuator to see the pressure required to operate and whether or not held pressure.

As mentioned I tried to manually operate the actuator linkage and felt very stiff to me.

Doesn't make a great deal of sense as effectively the actuator is a diaphragm and spring so not a great deal to go wrong. The spring seemed to have significant force when springing back.

[metalworker0]

seen mentions about the wastegate being stuck or stiff plenty of times .. so you have to take the actuator off and check the wastegate moves freely to open and close

if it does not .. you will be doing something to make it free moving

the pin it pivots on can rust or rot away .. so umm .. you can either fix it or you cant

all the best.mark

[pl01]

The actuator is riveted to the turbo so would have to come off with the manifold. I haven't seen aftermarkets sold.

A new garrett is around £400 so not pocket change, was trying to avoid buying a new turbo but looks like I'm going to have to, also on a 2006 removing the manifold without snapping anything will be fun!

[metalworker0]

There is one good thing , you'll be able to clean the inlet manifold and inlet tracts .. and the back of the valves ... i wanted to do that on mine .. but one look at it said .. i was in for trouble .. and as im only doing low mileage - i just thought it may be years before it gives trouble and left it be. ... genuine ford exhaust and inlet gaskets will come to £50 for the pair.

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

There is a post here with pictures somewhere in the connect section in last 3 years, were someone repaired the rusted broken pivot point .. ive looked and i cant find it.

all the best.mark

[pl01]

This is my concern, it looks like I'm in for trouble with snapped / seized manifold bolts / studs.

The actuator linkage is free, the actuator is just incredibly stiff and has a vicious spring back, doesn't really make sense. As I said needing 20 psi to move it, so never going to achieve that.

[metalworker0]

its just a little ram . with a diaphragm on the end to operate it ... would replacing the actuator solve it .. they are available and not expensive.

Note: cant find it on the diagrams as separate item at catcar.info
cant find it on ebay for transit connect

But - can find it for the same ford 1.8 tddi fitted in focus etc on ebay

I've no idea how to verify this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365422063920?

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

MY understanding ... the stronger the spring .. then the wastegate opens at greater pressure so more boost

has someone modified it


all the best.mark

[pl01]

That is my understanding as well, it doesn't look modified to me, as its riveted in position and looks a similar patina to the rest. I've owned the van for 11 years so I think it's original.

Thanks for the link I will order one of those and a gasket kit, I'll have to bite the bullet and remove either way, too confined to drill those rivets out in situ unfortunately.

The snapback of the spring just makes me think something isn't right internally with the current actuator.

[metalworker0]

dont go ordering it .. because i'm unsure- you make doubly sure

when i was doing a bit of research a while back .. there was one actuator that laid on its side and another that was sort upright leaning over

this is the horizontal one. according to one part number which he gave which was for the turbo

802419-5010S

https://www.turbolader24.org/en/p/focus ... -tddi-tdci

all the best.mark

[pl01]

Your first link looks identical to the one that's fitted.

In all honesty with 120k on the clock, I'm not sure if its worth faffing around drilling the old one off with the gasket kit I'll be 60 quid in and all the work removing when there could also be a fault with the turbo, I've been driving it like this for some time so may have caused some damage to the turbo, when I can buy a genuine garrett one with gasket kit for £350.

[metalworker0]

Yup the balls in your court.
Everything crammed in there -- inaccessible and difficult to do work.

Before you start- be prepared - read up on welding nuts on the broken studs and how to get them out .. plenty of youtube videos on that.
Also consider removing engine mounts and cantering engine over to make more room, if things get difficult.

Consider, once you've replaced the whole lot with new .. that if you then at your leisure, replace the actuator on the old one and if the turbo is ok .. that the selling price on ebay for that item , USED, is £80 - £140... so you will get some money back and happy days.

All the best.mark