Alternator ABS

[Boghopper]

After putting my van back together I took it out of the garage today and my ABS light was illuminated. Checked the two front sensors for wear, both were alright. Took it for a spin and then the battery light came on. Checked my voltage with a multimeter and I have 11.9v on the battery with the engine not running and no change when the van is started, still 11.9v Was working perfect before going into the garage and I never touched any of that stuff. I have never had the ABS lights come on with a knackered alternator.. I changed that alternator in 2017. Will check the wiring tomorrow. Had to cancel my M.O.T. which was arranged for tomorrow.

[metalworker0]

There is some sort of circle of magnets on a disc on the inside face of the wheel bearing , if its had a bump like you have, it may have dislodged a load of rust dust that is now stuck to the magnets.

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

Yes, there are 'tone' rings' built into the A.B.S. wheel bearings and the the sensors lay alongside them. My knuckles and bearings are mint and rust free. I also withdrew the two front sensors yesterday and they were in good nick and clean.

I only have 11.9v across my battery teminals, even with the van started. Starting the van has no impact on the voltage across the terminals. I last changed that alternator in 2017, the original Ford alternator was just eleven years old so, this one has lasted nine years, even though, I have only done 32,000 miles in those nine years! Like I say though, I never realised it could set off the A.B.S. lamp; I have never had that happen anyway.

[Boghopper]

I have retrieved two codes from my van, they are: P0625-62 and P0380-68. I must have looked at the van wrong, the other day.

[Boghopper]

I disconnected the three pin plug from the alternator and it had no effect on the voltage across the battery terminals, with or without, the engine running.

[Boghopper]

Tested the alternator at the actual alternator output, it was 11.6v, way under what it should be. That was with the engine running. With the engine turned off it was 11.9v at the alternator and at the battery. The alternator is not outputting anything over 11.6v, that's with the 3-pin plug disconnected as well so, the 'SMART' charge crap cannot be having any input at all. The alternator should just act like a moggy alternator without the 3-pin connector connected but, it isn't. I think the glow-plug and the A.B.S. error is due to voltage drop within the system.

So, looks like a new alternator is needed; crikey Moses!

[metalworker0]

if its a smart alternator you better do some reading up on how they work.. as sometimes they put out nothing and sometimes up to 16 volt
i wouldn't know how to test one ..

But ive heard that with a smart alternator you better have the battery fully charged before you hook it up back up to the car.

SORRY - That's all i know


all the best.mark

[Kimbyyri]

Tap it lightly with a hammer; the carbon brushes might be worn out and stuck.

[Boghopper]

if its a smart alternator you better do some reading up on how they work.. as sometimes they put out nothing and sometimes up to 16 volt
i wouldn't know how to test one ..

That is the 3-pin connector letting the ECU take control of the regulator output. If that 3-pin is disconnected the regulator should just go back to being a standard regulator kicking out a fixed voltage dependent on the rotation speed. I have loaded it up this morning by disconnecting the 3-pin, starting the van, getting my missus to rev the engine to 2000 R.P.M. and turning the air-conditiong on, headlamps on full and the windscreen de-mister on. While she did this I checked the output, at the alternator, with a multimeter, and it was 11.7v; which is crap! It also does not increase, irrespective of rotational speed, which it should. The battery is the same voltage as well and it should be higher than that. The redulator is doing nothing at all.

I have six of these bloody things and I am trying to source the slip-rings, brushes and rectifiers for them so I can rebuild them. The regulators are easy to acquire.



The bearings are just standard 6203 and a 6303 from what I can gather, can't be sure until I strip one.

Tap it lightly with a hammer; the carbon brushes might be worn out and stuck.

I am going to replace it ans then strip it, it is not outputting anything.

[metalworker0]

OH ok .. at the moment you seem to know a lot more than me .. i'll read up on testing .. see what it says ., it may take some time.

all the best.mark

[Altransit]

Silly suggestion time ........................ have you tried charging the battery externally? My experience of alternators is that they need 12v on the trigger/exciter wire to start them charging, which is why they are useless if you have a failing battery.

Might be worth a try!

[Boghopper]

Too late, Altransit, I've changed the alternator now. Anyway, I have 14.8-15v on the alternator and the battery is charging again. My battery light has gone out as well. The rror code: P0625-62 has gone, also.

Trouble is, and I was dreading it, is my ABS light is still on. But if I do a scan there is only one code and that is: P0380-68.

[metalworker0]

yes checked out your methods of testing, done some reading up .. you are correct in everything you did

and i think you have intelligence, probably more so than me, to workout your ABS problem, ive already added the possible things .. sensors , wiring , tyres , steering angle sensor if it has one .. the newer customs mk8s will put up ABS light for even small engine faults.

0380-68. glow plugs

there is a fusable link on early mk1's ..
glow plugs sometimes go to ground .. that's what blows it.

later 2006 on ..possibly yours had a different system

all the best.mark

[Altransit]

I'm glad the lack of charge is sorted, but I can't get my head around how many times you've had alternator issues. I haven't needed to change an alternator since the days of my Mk4, and that was a mechanical failure, rather than electrical.

All of my ABS issues have been caused by a wheel sensor, or a wheel bearing in one case.

[Boghopper]

Yes, the newer stuff is almost terrorizing the occupant/ victim into going to the garage for even the simplest fault. A plethora of flashing lamps and strange noises to intimidate them; it's almost like being in a flak field. I personally, don't really, want anything to do with it.

I mean, my van, even with these lamps coming on is functioning perfectly, if it weren't for the lamps being illuminated I would not even be aware of anything being wrong with it. I depise it when the ABS kicks in and takes over from my braking, as well.

I changed those glow plugs a few years ago, BERU ones I think they were. The van starts first flick from cold at the moment. I remember, when I had to change them before, the van was becoming a bugger to start. I suppose it is summer though and that makes a difference to cold starting.

You know, these wheel sensors. I can be there for almost half a day sometimes trying to unplug them without breaking the crappy plugs and that is what annoys me the most. I did damage one once and had to solder on a new plug.

I have acquired the slip-rings and brushes for these alternators now. Will see if I have time to strip one.