TDDI 1.8 pump timing

[ralph123]

I am a tad confused, the manual tells me that when number 1 is at tdc the pump drive pully dot should be at the 12 oclock position, however mine is not it is either at 3 or 9, IE 90dec before or after the correct point. I bought this needing a new pump and I think there may be a chance that the person I bought it from has tried playing with the chain crank to pump timing. Is there any other way you can think of that the pump mark can end up 90deg out? Should I alter the pump to crannk timing so that the pump pully dot is at the 12 position before I go any further?

[plvcrmn]

did you lock the engine timing before you started ????

[ralph123]

no we did lock the crank with the proper pin behind the aircon mounting before timing the whole thing up but pump was already off when we came to it and we just assumed we could go by the book so to set the cam timing we put the injector pump dot at tdc and then put the cambelt on, when we tried starting it, it hit 3 vavles. So we took the head off, and I thought I would do a few checks before going further, so I looked at the pump pully and the dot was still at 12 oclock, but 2 and 3 were at tdc, so I turned the engine till 1 and 4 were at tdc and the dot on the pump was at 3 or 9 as 1 and 4 are at tdc. Several people have been onm this some are not mechanics persay, I cannot do all I could as I have cancer so I relly on others. It seems only logical to me that before doing anything else the dot on the pump pully must be at 12 when 1 and 4 are at tdc. The pump is a 006 replacing a 002 but I checked the orientation of both pump plastis pullies actually on the pump and they are the same. I dont want to let anyone go further and cost me more money till I know more about the actual pump timing.

Thanks.

[plvcrmn]

ok ,,,firstly you say you have set the engine to tdc at no 1,,but is it at compression ?? it could be 180d out ,,, i think that that is your problem,, also what book are you going by ? paul.

[plvcrmn]

also ,,next time you rebuild it take out the glow plugs rotate the engine manualy about 6 times then chek the timing again ,,,,that way you will not do any damage if you have the timing out again,,the way i found easyer was to jack up the drivers side and take the wheel off the you can get a socket on a long extention on the crank pully

[ralph123]

As I say I do not know when it is at compression as opposed to exhaust, as the problem is when 1 and 4 are at tdc the indicator dot on the pump pully is either at 3 oclock or 9 oclock position never at the 12 oclock position which it should be, so not only am I unaware which is compresion, but niether is correct for injection to take place. We are using one of the dreaded heynes manuals which give really little infomation on pump tining, it basically says if you take the chain drive off make sure nothing moves and put it back. I really need to know is the pump 90% from where it should be, which the dot says it is, and how do I set up the chain drive pump timing? I obviously cannot set the vavle timing till the pump timing is correct.

Thanks.

[plvcrmn]

ralph ,,,,pm me your email and i will send you the correct way to time the engine up

[ralph123]

Is there no one out there that can help me with this timing issue or must I simply buy a new engine or scrap the vehicle?

[Turbo Tim]

where are you ,if local to me i have the proper stuff, im just out of Brighton

[YAMAHAYPVS]

I have a similar issue..I have got a Ford Transit connect. It has been my work van for the passed 15yrs.It has done 238000miles. It was leaking oil from both crank seals, from the upper sump and the timing chain casing. The engine is a 1.8tddi engine. I. Decided to repair all the oil leaks. To replace the upper sump gasket. Involved removing the gearbox, clutch and flywheel due to hidden bolts behind the flywheel. I marked the flywheel positioning. I renewed the rear crank seal and upper sump gasket. I put a new clutch kit as the gearbox was removed.i removed the starter motor, alternator and it's bracket.Got the engine to TDC.I put the locking tools on the cam shaft and the flywheel..I use the TDC pin behind the alternator bracket..removed steering pump. I removed water pump, cam belt, chain cover. I bought a new chain and sprocket kit. I tried putting the 6mm drill bit in the 11 o'clock position..I tried putting the drill bit in all the holes and found that the 12 o'clock position allowed the pin to deeper.i assumed the injector pump was locked..I replaced the chain and sprockets and put the engine back together. I rotated the engine through 8 revolutions before replacing the timing tools. All the tools went back perfectly. The engine wouldn't start. I.striped everything, suspecting the fuel pump timing was slightly out. I found out the 6mm drill bit hole at 12 o'clock position was a "suckered hole".it did not lock the pump shaft . The shaft was free to spin. The pump timing was out. My issue is there is no way to lock up the injector pump when replacing the chain and sprockets. The is not even a pin and horseshoe spacer which would lock the pump in TDC during manufacture transit. There is no way of locking the pump shaft in place. Using a dial test indicator is also useless because the injection pump uses fixed brackets.. I may have to scrap the van because of this pump design. Anyone experienced this? Is there a way around it?