Can anybody check my wiring diagram?

[eddhewett]

Hi there,

New member here with a new camper conversion project. 2003 Ford Transit Jumbo Hi Top from Force Vans. Ex Police CCTV van. It came complete with Eberspacher, mast scene lights, AC, A Waeco fridge (gas/12/240v), two small inverters (untested), interior lighting, exterior lighting, hookup super eject socket and cable, Euro Charger II and two dead 80ah silver calcium Ford leisure batteries.

To start I have taken down all the panels from the walls (cant get the ceiling panel down as it is glued in place but I think I can work around this. Don't want to disturb it too much as they have done a really nice job of carpet lining it and fitting roof fans and lights). I took the panels down so I could access the wiring of which there is loads of excess where the Police decommissioned the van and took equipment out by just cutting wires. Also whilst the panels are down I will Dynax S50 the cavities and add Superfoil SFBA 2/1 insulation to the already present loft style insulation.

Anyway tonight I have been thinking about wiring and batteries (I am no electrician by any means). After a little research I am thinking a Varta 110Ah battery might be the best bet but this info was from 3 years ago and I am unsure whether to get 1 or 2 to replace my dead batteries. I am also thinking of adding solar power as I will be leaving the van for 10 days or so at a time and was thinking of something along the lines of a 100w panel but am unsure if I might need more (2x100w or 1x150w?). I will mostly be living in my van for 2 days every 9-12 days but sometimes may use it for holidays for longer (a week/2 weeks). Whilst living in it I will probably use my laptop for a couple of hours and a mini 12v projector for a couple hours along with lights and gadget charging (phone, camera).

So firstly any tips on buying a battery, is a Varta 110Ah still top dog? do I need 1 or 2? Amazon seems to do a good deal.

Secondly, for my usage what do you think I should get in terms of solar, 1x100w? 2x100w? 1x150w? and does anyone know a cheap and reliable place to get them?

Thirdly I knocked together a wiring diagram and was wondering if anyone could take a look and check it out for me. I don't know what fuse size to put in for the projector (as I don't own it yet) and the rest are just what I have seen on others diagrams so if anyone spots fuse amp errors please let me know.
(the plain lines are positive/red, the dotted lines are negative/black, the three lines are standard positive/neutral/earth and the two lines by the gas are just to signify pipes (thought I would include gas as its the third power source for the fridge) Oh and I haven't left the Eberspacher out that is just wired to the Engine battery at the moment tho I might change that and add it off the 12v fuse box/switch board.

Wiring Diagram.jpg

I guess one more question I have is currently the van is set up with negative return via chassis/earth but I would feel more comfortable with a twin wire system as I am a Sailor and so have a fear of electrolysis. Is electrolysis a problem on vans? I am putting the positive wire in after all so why not run the other half with it? I would just run it back alongside the positive to the negative terminal on the battery right?

Cheers,

Edd Hewett

[ake]

Hi there,

New member here with a new camper conversion project. 2003 Ford Transit Jumbo Hi Top from Force Vans. Ex Police CCTV van. It came complete with Eberspacher, mast scene lights, AC, A Waeco fridge (gas/12/240v), two small inverters (untested), interior lighting, exterior lighting, hookup super eject socket and cable, Euro Charger II and two dead 80ah silver calcium Ford leisure batteries.

To start I have taken down all the panels from the walls (cant get the ceiling panel down as it is glued in place but I think I can work around this. Don't want to disturb it too much as they have done a really nice job of carpet lining it and fitting roof fans and lights). I took the panels down so I could access the wiring of which there is loads of excess where the Police decommissioned the van and took equipment out by just cutting wires. Also whilst the panels are down I will Dynax S50 the cavities and add Superfoil SFBA 2/1 insulation to the already present loft style insulation.

Anyway tonight I have been thinking about wiring and batteries (I am no electrician by any means). After a little research I am thinking a Varta 110Ah battery might be the best bet but this info was from 3 years ago and I am unsure whether to get 1 or 2 to replace my dead batteries. I am also thinking of adding solar power as I will be leaving the van for 10 days or so at a time and was thinking of something along the lines of a 100w panel but am unsure if I might need more (2x100w or 1x150w?). I will mostly be living in my van for 2 days every 9-12 days but sometimes may use it for holidays for longer (a week/2 weeks). Whilst living in it I will probably use my laptop for a couple of hours and a mini 12v projector for a couple hours along with lights and gadget charging (phone, camera).

So firstly any tips on buying a battery, is a Varta 110Ah still top dog? do I need 1 or 2? Amazon seems to do a good deal.

Secondly, for my usage what do you think I should get in terms of solar, 1x100w? 2x100w? 1x150w? and does anyone know a cheap and reliable place to get them?

Thirdly I knocked together a wiring diagram and was wondering if anyone could take a look and check it out for me. I don't know what fuse size to put in for the projector (as I don't own it yet) and the rest are just what I have seen on others diagrams so if anyone spots fuse amp errors please let me know.
(the plain lines are positive/red, the dotted lines are negative/black, the three lines are standard positive/neutral/earth and the two lines by the gas are just to signify pipes (thought I would include gas as its the third power source for the fridge) Oh and I haven't left the Eberspacher out that is just wired to the Engine battery at the moment tho I might change that and add it off the 12v fuse box/switch board.

Wiring Diagram.jpg

I guess one more question I have is currently the van is set up with negative return via chassis/earth but I would feel more comfortable with a twin wire system as I am a Sailor and so have a fear of electrolysis. Is electrolysis a problem on vans? I am putting the positive wire in after all so why not run the other half with it? I would just run it back alongside the positive to the negative terminal on the battery right?

Cheers,

Edd Hewett

The general rule with batteries is the more the merrier, the same for solar, if you can afford 2 batteries, and 2 solar panels, then do it
Your wiring diagram looks pretty good, but don't wire the output of the inverter directly to the 230v circuit, you must fit a change over switch, so that the external connector doesn't become live when the inverter is on, also the mains charger needs to be isolated when inverter is in use.

The vehicle wiring, in line with almost every other vehicle built in the last 50 years uses the chassis/shell as the negative path, so changing the wiring in the habitation area won't have much effect. It's entirely up to you.

[eddhewett]

Thanks for the reply,

Your wiring diagram looks pretty good, but don't wire the output of the inverter directly to the 230v circuit, you must fit a change over switch, so that the external connector doesn't become live when the inverter is on, also the mains charger needs to be isolated when inverter is in use.

By external connector I am assuming you mean the socket on the outside of my vehicle for mains?

I put in a 3 way switch (I don't know what symbol your supposed to use but that's what my lines and dots are) on the diagram so that only either inverter or mains or nothing can be selected for the sockets at a time, never two of the above. Is this not sufficient?

Also there is a switch in between the mains battery charger and the domestic battery though I would have thought the battery charger would stop any current reaching the hookup. Surely electricity cant run backwards through it.

[ake]

Thanks for the reply,

Your wiring diagram looks pretty good, but don't wire the output of the inverter directly to the 230v circuit, you must fit a change over switch, so that the external connector doesn't become live when the inverter is on, also the mains charger needs to be isolated when inverter is in use.

By external connector I am assuming you mean the socket on the outside of my vehicle for mains?

I put in a 3 way switch (I don't know what symbol your supposed to use but that's what my lines and dots are) on the diagram so that only either inverter or mains or nothing can be selected for the sockets at a time, never two of the above. Is this not sufficient?

Also there is a switch in between the mains battery charger and the domestic battery though I would have thought the battery charger would stop any current reaching the hookup. Surely electricity cant run backwards through it.

Yes, 3 way switch is perfect, couldn't see it in your drawing.
You misunderstand me, you don't want the charger to try and work from the inverter!

[eddhewett]

I get you now. If the three way switch wasn't there I see how that could power the charger. I apologize for the quality and clarity of the diagram

And thanks for the replies

[ake]

[Kedishen]

I recommend taking power from the solar charger rather than leisure battery directly. Benefits, over voltage protection, under voltage protection and power van be drawn directly from the solar panels reducing ware and tear on batteries.

For your usage you should have 2x 110aH batteries. In england, you should have at least 200w of solar panel input, although if you can get more, then do it. The further north you are, the less charge you will get. In portugal I barely manage with 100w of solar panel in the winter and 2x 110ah batteries. In summer, 100w is plenty (in portugal).