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Yellow Camper

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Yellow Camper

Postby yellowcamper » Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:27 pm

Been a member for over a year, but had not got to grips with posting pics. I don't use tapatalk, photobucket or cloud stuff so here goes. Apologies it is a bit picture heavy, but pictures are often better than words and may give others ideas.

Basically the aim was Tailgate Van for a bit of shelter (toured Europe kayaking years ago in old V4 Transit with a tailgate) SWB and low roof for ease of use in public car parks. Only tailgate ones around seemed to be AA or RAC and I ended up with an Ex AA so hardly taxed my brain with Yellowcamper :D

AA Van also has the advantage of being 115bhp and 3000 Kg load which seems relatively rare amongst SWB Low roof models.

Started the build based on my use of caravans, also wanted to carry a kayak inside on short trips and decided to keep the bulkhead, for safety. Keep the bikes and kayaks away from me if anything untoward happens.

Stripped out the AA lining, but kept the quality floor they had.

DSCN2575.JPG


Then I made a hollow one.

DSCN2598.JPG


Hollows were filled with 20 mm sticky back foam and filled in with spare laminate flooring and found B&Q did some nice radiused Aluminium edging.

IMAG0610.jpg


Then made a caravan style slatted bed frame, from old bed slats and relatively light wood. It would become strong enough when the facing ply was added. All carefully measured to fit the kayak and still be low enough for me to sit down.

DSCN2587.JPG


DSCN2591.JPG


That's it for now 5 attachments.

Sean.
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Re: Yellow Camper

Postby yellowcamper » Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:40 pm

Next 5 :D

Then made the bed front with locker doors sized to fit B&Q storage boxes for when the Kayak is not in there. Used plywood with edges profiled with a router and varnished. No fancy stuff as it is bound to get scratched with paddles or mountain bike pedals and plain varnished wood can always be easily sanded and re-varnished.

Also made a slatted panel for the side of the bed as I noticed with caravans that if there is no air gap the cushions got damp where they were against the side.

IMAG0801.jpg


Then set about mocking up ideas for the commonly used SMEV Sink/Hob Unit

IMAG0803.jpg


Final version made in ply like the front of the bed and the top was more spare laminate flooring.

IMAG0926.jpg


Also fitted windows from Van Pimps that don't quite fit right and working on fitting the Van X curtains which equally don't fit nicely and when I spoke to them it was clear they did not understand about the extra vertical bar in the transit that is not removed when fitting the rear windows. But overcoming these things is all part of the fun.

It is not finished, but as you can see it is in use for kayaking or cycling trips, but I need to do the wiring and the ceiling yet.

Only big regret is that I didn't get a van years ago :D

Sean.
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Re: Yellow Camper

Postby ned » Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:51 pm

Looks good so far, did you not fancy removing the bulkhead so you can get from cab to back without getting out. N
RUST IS LIGHTER THEN CARBON FIBRE

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03 transit 125t280 2.0 tdci swb 229,000 miles.
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Re: Yellow Camper

Postby yellowcamper » Fri Dec 22, 2017 11:43 pm

Someone near me who has done a VWT4 suggested that too.

I considered that, but I reckoned you still could not easily get through unless I swapped the dual passenger seat for a single and I did not want to do that as I sometimes need to carry two passengers.

Also it was only a strong dog guard that saved me from my store boxes of kayaking gear when I rolled a Land Rover Discovery off the road in the lakes so for me the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.

The cab also warms up quicker in winter, and the AA have a rear window and there is a glass window in the bulkhead which allows you to get a full view of the rear window in the mirror.

Before I started I did check all the bolts they would all remove easily if I wanted but then I would have to seal off the bed behind the drivers seat.

At the moment I can still get the kayak in or 8 foot lengths of wood and don't have to worry about them sliding forward when I brake.

I think if you are going to wild camp then it is a good idea to be able to get from your bed to the drivers seat without unlocking the door and I have wondered about removing it, cutting it and either refitting the bit behind the driver, or it seems to be split horizontally so refitting the lower half would stop the kayak or long wood coming forward but would allow you to step over it if you had to. I am sure there will be quite a few things I want to change once it is used more.

Projects never get finished they just permanently evolve :D

Sean.
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Re: Yellow Camper

Postby ned » Sat Dec 23, 2017 12:28 am

Cant argue with that :wink: I know what you mean about warming the cab in winter, u was looking at them curtains that separates the front n back. N
RUST IS LIGHTER THEN CARBON FIBRE

57 transit 85t260 2.2 swb, moondust silver.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=209987

03 transit 125t280 2.0 tdci swb 229,000 miles.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=168296
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Re: Yellow Camper - Update on Towing Wiring

Postby yellowcamper » Sat Jun 02, 2018 9:34 am

Thanks for the help on the other thread, but no luck at finding any extra power supplies hidden in the rear wiring.

Looking again as the Customer Connection Points are so difficult to get at on a RHD vehicle I realised that you do not need them unless you are connecting very heavy wires.

They are only extensions from the 3 60A fuses which save you removing the seat and battery to get inside the under seat fuse box.

It is actually easier to remove the seat and the battery and connect inside the box.

I have not yet connected the camper wiring but I do now have a working towbar and a leisure battery in the vehicle.

60A fuses downrated to 30A and two inline fuses to further downrate to 15 so the easier ones to replace should blow first. One for Towing and the other to charge the leisure battery which will power the rear interior lights, LED Lights and Sink Water Pump etc.

Downrated Fuses 2.JPG


Wire clipped to existing harness so it exists through hole in seat mounting box, edge of hole protected against chaffing, and it can then run up behind the seat belt plastic trim along the roof line and back down to the OSR Light cavity.

Out Through the Seat.JPG


Don't want the trailer unit permanently live so put a switch in the wire which will be mounted on a bracket to the outside of the seat box.

I am the sole driver so it is not a problem, it will only be energised when towing so less than if it was permanently on an ignition triggered supply. If you do forget to switch it on testing the indicators and not hearing the buzzer prompts you to switch it on.

Leisure battery fitted connection to be done later, but the breather has been fitted and linked into the breather for the other one with a windscreen washer T piece.

Plan is to connect it to the other point I fitted via the Voltage Sensitive Relay so it should charge from that when running, but be disconnected when its not. Will post up when it is working

Leisure Battery and Switch.JPG


Sean.
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