3way fridge running off 12v how much current draw question

[nitroman]

hi i have the standard electrolux 3 way fridge that i really dont want to power by gas, so 12 volts via a leisure batt is what im aiming for.......i have a 110amp hour batt, does anyone know hom much current these fridges take? or how if it would run ok say for a day in bettween charging up the leisure batt?

[barabas]

No gas? Scared of cutting holes in yer van? The fridge should have its specs on a plate on it somewhere, you can do the maths and work out how much juice it'll take from that.. having said that if you're not running anything else, a good 110AH battery should do you fine for a while depending on ambient temp and how full it is etc. The thing with 3 way fridges is that when on 12 or 240V, appx. half that energy goes out the vent holes.. gas is way more efficient. The only real way to find out is to just give it a try. My experience is that if you wanna make ice in it, do it while yer on a long distance drive!

[mcroson]

well if its the 212 model i think they have a watt draw of 125 watts

so 125 watts divide by 12 volts = 10.42amps say 10.5amps

so if your 110ah battery is fully charged and in good condition

110 ah divide by 10.5amps = 10.47 hours so say 10 and half hours

but all depends on battery condition and charge.

[nitroman]

thanks barabus, the fridge is old and rusty at the rear where it exhausts and around the pipework so i figured 12v may be safer? i can cut a hole and use gas i would prefer to but maybe it may be safer...the fridge has a plate with wiring diagram etc and gas details but not the current or amps!

[barabas]

well if its the 212 model i think they have a watt draw of 125 watts

so 125 watts divide by 12 volts = 10.42amps say 10.5amps

so if your 110ah battery is fully charged and in good condition

110 ah divide by 10.5amps = 10.47 hours so say 10 and half hours

but all depends on battery condition and charge.

Yeah, but you also have to factor in ambient temp/fill etc, it has a big effect on these fridges..
Remember, if you do go for gas, get a good CO detector, they cost feck all and they really do save lives...

[pippin]

This sort of fridge depends on heating the refrigerant for cooling to occur.

They are wildly inefficient as more heat is wasted than is actually drawn out of the food/beer/whatever inside the fridge.

The 12V element generally draws about 10A and is not really up to the job of keeping the fridge cool unless it has previously been used on gas or 240V to chill it right down first.

They cannot be used on gas when driving along.

If used on gas then the installation has to be done strictly in accordance with safety regulations. The rear of the fridge has to be totally sealed off from the interior of the van to prevent combustion fumes (esp CO) from entering. The area at the rear of the fridge should have a gas drop vent in the floor. The gas cylinder has to be in a sealed locker, again with a gas drop vent in the floor.

You would be better off scrapping the 3-way and using a simple 12V thermoelectric cold box.

For real efficiency fit a 12v compressor fridge, but that will cost a few bob to buy.

[nitroman]

ooops! good info there pippin thanks...

so the fridge will take all the battery power so thats no good as im likely to be parked more than 10 hours bettween charges....gas cant be used when driving! oh dear, looks like a coo box then!

[kimbo]

how much do you want for your fridge ...

[dingdangdo]

This sort of fridge depends on heating the refrigerant for cooling to occur.

They are wildly inefficient as more heat is wasted than is actually drawn out of the food/beer/whatever inside the fridge.

The 12V element generally draws about 10A and is not really up to the job of keeping the fridge cool unless it has previously been used on gas or 240V to chill it right down first.

They cannot be used on gas when driving along.

If used on gas then the installation has to be done strictly in accordance with safety regulations. The rear of the fridge has to be totally sealed off from the interior of the van to prevent combustion fumes (esp CO) from entering. The area at the rear of the fridge should have a gas drop vent in the floor. The gas cylinder has to be in a sealed locker, again with a gas drop vent in the floor.

You would be better off scrapping the 3-way and using a simple 12V thermoelectric cold box.

For real efficiency fit a 12v compressor fridge, but that will cost a few bob to buy.

I was going the same route with the 3 way fridge, so went to our local caravan service center and got the same as above, glad I didn't bid on one on evilbay looking for a 12v coolbox now, some nice ones knocking around now, as good as a fridge

[aln101tf]

This sort of fridge depends on heating the refrigerant for cooling to occur.

They are wildly inefficient as more heat is wasted than is actually drawn out of the food/beer/whatever inside the fridge.

The 12V element generally draws about 10A and is not really up to the job of keeping the fridge cool unless it has previously been used on gas or 240V to chill it right down first.

They cannot be used on gas when driving along.

If used on gas then the installation has to be done strictly in accordance with safety regulations. The rear of the fridge has to be totally sealed off from the interior of the van to prevent combustion fumes (esp CO) from entering. The area at the rear of the fridge should have a gas drop vent in the floor. The gas cylinder has to be in a sealed locker, again with a gas drop vent in the floor.

You would be better off scrapping the 3-way and using a simple 12V thermoelectric cold box.

For real efficiency fit a 12v compressor fridge, but that will cost a few bob to buy.

I was going the same route with the 3 way fridge, so went to our local caravan service center and got the same as above, glad I didn't bid on one on evilbay looking for a 12v coolbox now, some nice ones knocking around now, as good as a fridge

These 3-way caravan fridges are designed to run very effectively on gas, with 220ac being a close second where available. The 12v provision is only there to help hold the temperature while driving. The gas tends to blow out at 50mph .I never bother now with the 12v, as provided the fridge is cold to start with and the door isn't opened, it usualy stays cold for quite a few hours driving. If I stop for any time, then I fire up the gas to give it a boost.
On gas can freeze ice-cream
220ac will keep it hard
12v will keep it soft
Will use at least 8amps continuously at 12v
Coolboxes take about half that current as they use a completely different method to pump the heat out which is much more efficient, and are generally a lot smaller capacity of course. As they are usually of a chest design, less cold air is lost each time they are opened, than a door type.
If its a camper type:- fit the gas, it works really well.
If you just want cold drinks in your van:- buy a coolbox
Hope this helps, Alan

[dark legend]

As said above, you'll never get it to freeze things / get the temp down on 12V with a 3-way it's just to maintain the temp whilst travelling. I run my fridge on 240v for 4-5 hrs before we set off on a long journey so it's nice and cold and there is ice in the icebox. It'll usually stay cold for 3-4hrs with the door shut then.

Gas is most efficient and they'll run for days and days and days on a full cylinder. Just make sure it's sealed and you have a CO monitor.