What size Dc to DC charger can i use in my van. ford transit

[ADUK]

Hi

Im from the UK.
i have a ford transit 350 trend, 2198cc, diesel van, 6 speed, 2017, euro5, 3500kg gross, MK8

What size dc to dc charger can i install and not damage my alternator or cause any other problems?

I know i can install a 20a, but id like to go bigger.
Can i install a 30a, 40a, 50a, 60a or even put 2x30a in parallel to get 60a?

Renogy seem to be the best price, but it doesnt have to be that.

Im likely to be installing a LifePO4 200ah, or maybe 2x 100ah.


Is there any way I can test the alternator to check?
Does anybody know the specification or what i can use?

I do know i have to check what the maximum charge the battery i buy can take and size accordingly, but assuming i go for a battery that can take a large charge so i can get a larger dc dc charger.

thanks

[dumper]

I have a sterling 30 amp in mine it’s been on for 40000 miles when the alternator gave up I’m not saying it’s the sterling that did it alternator can go at any mileage every camper I’ve had as needed a new alternator at some point probably due to the extra work they have to do

[johnporter11]

I've had a Renogy DCC50S in my Mk8 460 minibus (like Dumper's). It's charging 2x100AH EFB batteries (lead acid). The DCC50S has got a built in MPPT controller for my Renogy 175W solar panel also. The van now has 75k on it, 20k since fitting the Renogy 50A charger. If you ARE going down the Renogy route, do remember that the DCC50S will only charge at 25A while there is solar available (to get the full 50A from your alternator, you have to bluff the charger by disconnecting the solar via an isolator).

[ADUK]

Thanks for the replies.

I was looking to get that 50a dcc50s until i found out it dropped the dc dc to 25a if solar is present.

I may add solar later and if so thought id get a dedicated mppt.

If yours runs that at 50a without a problem using the isolator, and ive also been told i should be ok with a 60a dc dc, its looking like a higher amp dc dc charger should be ok

I didn't think of isolating the solar input to bluff it.
That opens up the option to isolate it while driving and remove the isolator when parked.

What sort of amps or volts or input do you get from the renogy 175w solar on average in winter and summer? Is it just mounted horizontally on the roof or roofrack?

[johnporter11]

I don't know the output of my alternator, but not many people use B2B's higher than 50A. In fact I think 50A is rare. Also, you need to think about whether your batteries would like 60A.
I do know 175W solar isn't really enough, certainly in UK winter. In fact, in winter, any solar system is next to useless. Not the solar system's fault, it's the lack of sun and the height/angle of it. Yes, mine's flat on the roof but I'm not minded to rig up some system to elevate it! On balance, yes it works OK in summer for my requirements.

[bortaf]

I have the DCC50s as well (400w on the roof), i just have a switch to shut off the solar panels (the big grey box over the DCC50s) bit of a faff but suited my needs, sterling do B to Bs and obv victron do a 30A, TBH as a BtoB senses the voltage before turning on it should let the starter battery charge before it charges the house battery so will give the alt an easyer time

IMG_20220626_161100.jpg

i don't mind renogy although most from the US seem to hate them with a vengance for some reason

[johnporter11]

My Renogy stuff is fitted two years now and it's worked well. I don't know why Americans would hate them - it's an American company! Maybe it's because their products are manufactured in China. But what's new....

[bortaf]

My Renogy stuff is fitted two years now and it's worked well. I don't know why Americans would hate them - it's an American company! Maybe it's because their products are manufactured in China. But what's new....

no idea but if you ever get on will prowses solar forum they have a saying
"friends dont recomend renogy to friends"
Mine's also been in 2 years + and no issues and i've fitted 6 other renogy systems without issue, i consider them mid tier, deffo not top end but better than most of the offerings direct from a no name chinese manufacturer, IMHO of course
saying that thier APP sucks big wang

[ADUK]

Thanks for all the replies.

Looking around at prices its not much difference to get the 60a dc dc renogy and a seperate 20a mppt rathey than the combo unit.

It seems 50a or 60a will also work fine in my vehicle without added strain or damaging my alternator.

Ive now got to get a list of accessories i need like a watt meter, batery momitor, fuses, cables etc

Could anybody share roughly how many watts or amps per hour or per day you get on average in Sumner or winter from the size of panels you have?

[thebarber]

I've got an Abso dmt1250 dc-dc charger
50amp which also controls solar.

[bortaf]

Thanks for all the replies.

Looking around at prices its not much difference to get the 60a dc dc renogy and a seperate 20a mppt rathey than the combo unit.

It seems 50a or 60a will also work fine in my vehicle without added strain or damaging my alternator.

Ive now got to get a list of accessories i need like a watt meter, batery momitor, fuses, cables etc

Could anybody share roughly how many watts or amps per hour or per day you get on average in Sumner or winter from the size of panels you have?

Get yourself a shunt, i use an AiLi version, works great, it will measure battery level, power in or out and current load.
I have 400W on the roof but in this low sun i maybe see (on a clear sunny day) 15% of max with the pannels flat, tilted i see 30+%, summer flat i see 75% and over 80% tilted in the summer (% of the max theoretical 400W) of course in the summer as the pannel heats up the output drops so i have seen 100+% but it soon drops off

Using seperate units is allways better IMHO, i only used the all in one cos of my need to charge the vans starter battery when the house battery is full (the van often sits for weeks or months only being used as a workshop) i keep an cheap PWM controler in a drawer just in case