Scheduled Maintenance, Servicing and Body Protection.

[Klunker]

Looking forward to picking up my new bus this Friday.
Ford Tourneo Custom 185ps Titanium.
Straight out the wrapper from the dealer.

I have always looked after my vehicles, and don't even drive that hard anymore, mellowing into cruise control rather than ragging it.

My plan is:
Valet every quarter.
Waxoyl sprayed from new.
Steamed and sprayed after they stop salting the road.
Steamed and sprayed before they start again.
Oil change on 6 months or 6000 miles, depending what comes first. Historically I'd use Mobil 1 Semi-Synthetic as it seems hard wearing and not too pricey for frequent oil and filter changes.
As it's new, I'll be getting it serviced at Ford.

Few questions I have.
Is there anywhere prone to rusting that should be given more attention on underseal and Waxoyl?

Is your warranty affected by doing your own 6 month oil changes, assuming Ford parts and recommended oil is used?

What are the service costs and intervals?

Any other tips or tricks to ensure smooth running and future resale value like a bonnet protector or paint treatment?

Having Subarus before, the advantage of long life stainless exhausts is appealing as well. Are there any good stainless options for the L2H1.


Not expecting high miles, 10k per year.
Less if the congestion charge comes to Manchester, but any advice would be appreciated.

Additionally, does anyone know a top bodyshop for a rear spoiler prime, spray and fit.

[dumper]

I’d use Ford oil and filter no need to tell them you have done it as for the exhaust I wouldn’t change it till it needs to as for wax oil everywhere you can underneath inside the box sections as well in the past I’ve done them inside as well

[Klunker]

I’d use Ford oil and filter no need to tell them you have done it as for the exhaust I wouldn’t change it till it needs to as for wax oil everywhere you can underneath inside the box sections as well in the past I’ve done them inside as well

Cheers Dumper.
Is it 5w30 semi-synthetic it takes?

Also, some Rangers had the variable pressure oil pump that did not like the oil draining out the sump for more than a few minutes before the pump drained and didn't recharge before restarting, rumoured to cause a few engine bangs, and with Subaru, they always advised a dry crank with the crank sensor disconnected before starting after an oil change.

Is there any anomalies with this Euro 6.2 185ps (if that is.indeed what's in mine)

[dumper]

All I’ve done is get oil from Ford it’s a fully synthetic it’s a Castrol MagneTek low ash if you get the wrong spec it can do harm to the dpf.mine isa 2.2 mk8 and all I’ve done for oil changes is drain it and refill and had no problems and fitted the oil filter full of oil .

[woodbutcherbower]

Oil change on 6 months or 6000 miles, depending what comes first. Historically I'd use Mobil 1 Semi-Synthetic as it seems hard wearing and not too pricey for frequent oil and filter changes.

A man after my own heart. I do mine every 6k and always have done. It's absolutely the best and lowest-cost form of engine maintenance, and it will pay huge dividends long-term. It's especially important on Euro 6 engines because unburnt diesel is dumped into the sump during failed DPF regens, making it progressively thinner and less effective. Ford specify fully synthetic 0W-30, though - so Castrol Magnatec is my preferred choice, the same as Dumper's. It's what Ford main dealers use.

As it's new, I'll be getting it serviced at Ford.

Ford's recommended service intervals are looney-tunes. 18k for the first 'interim' service (they don't actually do anything, they just give it a quick look over), followed by the first 'proper' service and oil change at 36k. Ridiculous. It's worth getting the above two done by Ford since it gives you main dealer stamps in the book which will prove invaluable if you ever need to put in a warranty claim, but for your eminently sensible more frequent ones - your local independent will do just fine. Get them to stamp the book also. These guys will also fulfil more infrequent requirements such as brake fluid replacement.

Is your warranty affected by doing your own 6 month oil changes, assuming Ford parts and recommended oil is used?

No. It's your van and you're free to change your own oil every day if you want to, as long as the viscosity rating is correct and you have the paperwork to prove it. To be honest, I can't be doing with the hassle and I just get my local independents to do it. If you do want to go DIY though - you'll need a replacement sump plug every time.

What are the service costs and intervals?

See above for fantasy intervals, speak to your main dealer for costs on 'official' service, and a good independent for others.

Any other tips or tricks to ensure smooth running and future resale value like a bonnet protector or paint treatment?

It already sounds as though yours will be the cleanest and smoothest-running Custom in the UK (apart from mine, obviously ) Paint treatments (in my personal opinion only) are all snake oil. Mine's at 3.5 years old and 40k - the only paint damage consists of a few tiny chips on the wheel arch flares. Covers etc. - 100% your call, but my bonnet is still immaculate.

Additionally, does anyone know a top bodyshop for a rear spoiler prime, spray and fit.

Any decent place near you. Google is your friend. I did my own - not difficult to do, I just used rattle cans mixed up by my local automotive supplier who supply 'proper' paint to body shops (as opposed to the Halfords stuff). The spoiler is easily fixed on using a specialist sealant/adhesive such as Tiger Seal.

Enjoy your new ride, hope that helps.
All the best

[Klunker]

Top advice folks.
Many thanks.

With it being new, do you need a 500/1000 mile running in period?

Aside from harsh acceleration in the early days, I'm not sure if that's still a thing.

I'm sure the dealer will advise, but looking at the gap in the Ford mudflaps, I'll be going canny till I get my big flaps on

[Mike]

Top advice folks.
Many thanks.

With it being new, do you need a 500/1000 mile running in period?

Aside from harsh acceleration in the early days, I'm not sure if that's still a thing.

I'm sure the dealer will advise, but looking at the gap in the Ford mudflaps, I'll be going canny till I get my big flaps on

No, beat the sh*t out of it from day one and it’ll be fine. How long are you planning to keep it?

[Klunker]

For the foreseeable.
Only sold my Ranger as we are starting to go days here and there and soon with our first grandson too.
Ranger was brilliant, but effectively you have a car with no boot, and even with the tonneau cover it leaks, and putting your bikes in there, they are exposed and need to be chained down or you get nervous at every traffic light.


Quite fancy getting a tailgate tent and using the van to crash in if the weather turns.

So yes, looking to keep it for a while, and with the variety of seating config and trips home and abroad, looking forward to New van day.

[Chrisp74]

Is Waxoyl still the market leader?
I used a Bilt Hamber product that went on really well, Dynax S50 I think. Used a proper underseal gun and and as already said make sure you get into all the box sections. Under the bonnet I go liberal with ACF 50.
Recently tried some of this stuff. https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/collections/moto not cheap but again nice to use. Time will tell I guess!

[Sam123]

All I’ve done is get oil from Ford it’s a fully synthetic it’s a Castrol MagneTek low ash if you get the wrong spec it can do harm to the <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">dpf.mine</span> isa 2.2 mk8 and all I’ve done for oil changes is drain it and refill and had no problems and fitted the oil filter full of oil .

Interesting you say that Dumper. I'm aware of the usual preference for low SAPS oil with a DPF, but as far as I have been able to make out Ford recommend A5/B5 full-fat oil for my Euro 5 Mk8 with DPF , to the spec WSS-M2C913-D.

I've been using Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5w-30 which meets the WSS-M2C913-D spec. Have you heard something different?

To the OP, I'd personally be a bit hesitant about using Waxoyl. Sometimes, particularly with the old-fashioned proper Waxoyl products they can tend to create water/dirt traps, particularly when the coating degrades a bit, which can encourage rust. And I'd definitely avoid the solid-black curing products, partly for the aforementioned reason, but also because buyers may not like it if/when you come to sell. If it were me I'd probably plump for one of the non-curing oil-based products, like Dinitrol ML.

[dumper]

All I’ve done is get oil from Ford it’s a fully synthetic it’s a Castrol MagneTek low ash if you get the wrong spec it can do harm to the <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">dpf.mine</span> isa 2.2 mk8 and all I’ve done for oil changes is drain it and refill and had no problems and fitted the oil filter full of oil .

Interesting you say that Dumper. I'm aware of the usual preference for low SAPS oil with a DPF, but as far as I have been able to make out Ford recommend A5/B5 full-fat oil for my Euro 5 Mk8 with DPF , to the spec WSS-M2C913-D.

I've been using Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5w-30 which meets the WSS-M2C913-D spec. Have you heard something different?

To the OP, I'd personally be a bit hesitant about using Waxoyl. Sometimes, particularly with the old-fashioned proper Waxoyl products they can tend to create water/dirt traps, particularly when the coating degrades a bit, which can encourage rust. And I'd definitely avoid the solid-black curing products, partly for the aforementioned reason, but also because buyers may not like it if/when you come to sell. If it were me I'd probably plump for one of the non-curing oil-based products, like Dinitrol ML.

As for the oil I have only gone on what Ford dealership says is correct and reading that if you do use the wrong oil it can harm the the dpf.
As for wax oil I have used that for 40 years with very good results but I also have sprayed gear oil and waste engine oil into the chassis legs and box sections as you say the type of under seal that sets is a waste of time putting on vehicles that are already rusty .
My 2006 jumbo mk6 I waxoiled and gear oiled it everywhere apart from removing the front wheel liners and the only part of the van that rusted was the bottom of the front wings the van as still had no welding today and is still in use by the new keeper.

[Mike]

Recently tried some of this stuff. https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/collections/moto not cheap but again nice to use. Time will tell I guess!

Ditto, lovely to use, but can’t comment on its effectiveness for a few years really. Things have move on since Waxoyl was the goto product though.

[dumper]

Recently tried some of this stuff. https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/collections/moto not cheap but again nice to use. Time will tell I guess!

Ditto, lovely to use, but can’t comment on its effectiveness for a few years really. Things have move on since Waxoyl was the goto product though.

I think a lot of the products about now are only the old waxoil formula now the patient has run out .

[dumper]

Recently tried some of this stuff. https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/collections/moto not cheap but again nice to use. Time will tell I guess!

Ditto, lovely to use, but can’t comment on its effectiveness for a few years really. Things have move on since Waxoyl was the goto product though.

I think a lot of the products about now are only the old waxoil formula now the patient has run out .

[Mike]

Waxoyl is a long term product, Lanoguard only lasts a year, so you’re not fooled into thinking that it’s providing protection that it’s not. Waxoyl tends to harbour damp once it’s been breached and because it claims to last years, the damage is done once you notice that the Waxoyl isn’t there anymore.