dumper wrote:I’d use Ford oil and filter no need to tell them you have done it as for the exhaust I wouldn’t change it till it needs to as for wax oil everywhere you can underneath inside the box sections as well in the past I’ve done them inside as well
Klunker wrote:Oil change on 6 months or 6000 miles, depending what comes first. Historically I'd use Mobil 1 Semi-Synthetic as it seems hard wearing and not too pricey for frequent oil and filter changes.
A man after my own heart. I do mine every 6k and always have done. It's absolutely the best and lowest-cost form of engine maintenance, and it will pay huge dividends long-term. It's especially important on Euro 6 engines because unburnt diesel is dumped into the sump during failed DPF regens, making it progressively thinner and less effective. Ford specify fully synthetic 0W-30, though - so Castrol Magnatec is my preferred choice, the same as Dumper's. It's what Ford main dealers use.
As it's new, I'll be getting it serviced at Ford.
Ford's recommended service intervals are looney-tunes. 18k for the first 'interim' service (they don't actually do anything, they just give it a quick look over), followed by the first 'proper' service and oil change at 36k. Ridiculous. It's worth getting the above two done by Ford since it gives you main dealer stamps in the book which will prove invaluable if you ever need to put in a warranty claim, but for your eminently sensible more frequent ones - your local independent will do just fine. Get them to stamp the book also. These guys will also fulfil more infrequent requirements such as brake fluid replacement.
Is your warranty affected by doing your own 6 month oil changes, assuming Ford parts and recommended oil is used?
No. It's your van and you're free to change your own oil every day if you want to, as long as the viscosity rating is correct and you have the paperwork to prove it. To be honest, I can't be doing with the hassle and I just get my local independents to do it. If you do want to go DIY though - you'll need a replacement sump plug every time.
What are the service costs and intervals?
See above for fantasy intervals, speak to your main dealer for costs on 'official' service, and a good independent for others.
Any other tips or tricks to ensure smooth running and future resale value like a bonnet protector or paint treatment?
It already sounds as though yours will be the cleanest and smoothest-running Custom in the UK (apart from mine, obviously ) Paint treatments (in my personal opinion only) are all snake oil. Mine's at 3.5 years old and 40k - the only paint damage consists of a few tiny chips on the wheel arch flares. Covers etc. - 100% your call, but my bonnet is still immaculate.
Additionally, does anyone know a top bodyshop for a rear spoiler prime, spray and fit.
Any decent place near you. Google is your friend. I did my own - not difficult to do, I just used rattle cans mixed up by my local automotive supplier who supply 'proper' paint to body shops (as opposed to the Halfords stuff). The spoiler is easily fixed on using a specialist sealant/adhesive such as Tiger Seal.
Klunker wrote:Top advice folks.
Many thanks.
With it being new, do you need a 500/1000 mile running in period?
Aside from harsh acceleration in the early days, I'm not sure if that's still a thing.
I'm sure the dealer will advise, but looking at the gap in the Ford mudflaps, I'll be going canny till I get my big flaps on
dumper wrote:All I’ve done is get oil from Ford it’s a fully synthetic it’s a Castrol MagneTek low ash if you get the wrong spec it can do harm to the <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">dpf.mine</span> isa 2.2 mk8 and all I’ve done for oil changes is drain it and refill and had no problems and fitted the oil filter full of oil .
Sam123 wrote:dumper wrote:All I’ve done is get oil from Ford it’s a fully synthetic it’s a Castrol MagneTek low ash if you get the wrong spec it can do harm to the <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">dpf.mine</span> isa 2.2 mk8 and all I’ve done for oil changes is drain it and refill and had no problems and fitted the oil filter full of oil .
Interesting you say that Dumper. I'm aware of the usual preference for low SAPS oil with a DPF, but as far as I have been able to make out Ford recommend A5/B5 full-fat oil for my Euro 5 Mk8 with DPF , to the spec WSS-M2C913-D.
I've been using Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5w-30 which meets the WSS-M2C913-D spec. Have you heard something different?
To the OP, I'd personally be a bit hesitant about using Waxoyl. Sometimes, particularly with the old-fashioned proper Waxoyl products they can tend to create water/dirt traps, particularly when the coating degrades a bit, which can encourage rust. And I'd definitely avoid the solid-black curing products, partly for the aforementioned reason, but also because buyers may not like it if/when you come to sell. If it were me I'd probably plump for one of the non-curing oil-based products, like Dinitrol ML.
Chrisp74 wrote:Recently tried some of this stuff. https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/collections/moto not cheap but again nice to use. Time will tell I guess!
Mike wrote:Chrisp74 wrote:Recently tried some of this stuff. https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/collections/moto not cheap but again nice to use. Time will tell I guess!
Ditto, lovely to use, but can’t comment on its effectiveness for a few years really. Things have move on since Waxoyl was the goto product though.
Mike wrote:Chrisp74 wrote:Recently tried some of this stuff. https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/collections/moto not cheap but again nice to use. Time will tell I guess!
Ditto, lovely to use, but can’t comment on its effectiveness for a few years really. Things have move on since Waxoyl was the goto product though.
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