Yet another oil change thread, or is it ?

[RIPPERTON]

10250km still not pitch black but out it comes and in with a new load.
The most colour change came after putting the Nulon in.

[RIPPERTON]

Heres a film clip.

[RIPPERTON]

A friend has a 2017 Land Rover Discovery SD4 2.0l diesel twin turbo with only 70000km on it and the engine has a lot of blowby.
He takes it to the dealer and they say it has low compression in one cyl and quote $54k to install a replacement engine.
I said I would try my Nulon engine wash to try to save the engine.
I drain the oil which looks like it is more than 10000km old, soot black. I do my usual compressed air purge into the oil filter outlet.
I put 6l of Magnatech in with half a can of Nulon and drive 50km.
Drain the oil again, it comes out pitch black. Compressed air purge and new oil.
Didnt have oil filters so I washed it out in unleaded fuel. I ordered 20l of oil 3 filters and 3 cans of Nulon
Another 6l of Magnatech and 3/4 can of Nulon and after a drive the oil is starting to stay clean.
After work I get in this and just drive it around for an hour, cleaning the inside of the engine.
I pull the injectors and find a lot of carbon buildup on the tips. The base washers look ok , they arnt leaking compression into
the cam case (blowby)
The standard washers look skimpy so I cnc new ones with smaller ID and larger OD, same thickness. These have more bulk to them and are a lot tougher.
They will be installed with Locktite sealer.
I also sprayed a full can of Nulon top end cleaner down the injector holes basically filling the cylinders and cleaning the compression rings from the top.
The 4th pic shows the air gun with hose used to purge the old oil. It is held onto the hole in the center of the oil filter housing.

[RIPPERTON]

I put an endoscope into the boost pressure sensor port and it goes down into one of the runners and down into the inlet port in the cylinder head.
I get a good shot of the inlet valve stem and the casting grain of the inlet port all looks clean.
Thought for sure the inlet manifold and ports would be caked in carbon.

[RIPPERTON]

Slight change to my oil change technique, no longer starting the engine after the sump has been drained.
I skipped that section during last oil change and made no difference to the colour of the oil after the oil change.
460000 km and still no noises or smoke of any kind. Still keeping the oil clean to 10000km.

[dumper]

That’s 6000 miles in imperial so yes that’s what I’ve always used as a maximum to change all my vehicles oil even when on mineral oil so it’s not how you change the oil it’s when you do it that makes the difference

[metalworker0]

A friend has a 2017 Land Rover Discovery SD4 2.0l diesel twin turbo with only 70000km on it and the engine has a lot of blowby.
He takes it to the dealer and they say it has low compression in one cyl and quote $54k to install a replacement engine.
I said I would try my Nulon engine wash to try to save the engine.
I drain the oil which looks like it is more than 10000km old, soot black. I do my usual compressed air purge into the oil filter outlet.
I put 6l of Magnatech in with half a can of Nulon and drive 50km.
Drain the oil again, it comes out pitch black. Compressed air purge and new oil.
Didnt have oil filters so I washed it out in unleaded fuel. I ordered 20l of oil 3 filters and 3 cans of Nulon
Another 6l of Magnatech and 3/4 can of Nulon and after a drive the oil is starting to stay clean.
After work I get in this and just drive it around for an hour, cleaning the inside of the engine.
I pull the injectors and find a lot of carbon buildup on the tips. The base washers look ok , they arnt leaking compression into
the cam case (blowby)
The standard washers look skimpy so I cnc new ones with smaller ID and larger OD, same thickness. These have more bulk to them and are a lot tougher.
They will be installed with Locktite sealer.
I also sprayed a full can of Nulon top end cleaner down the injector holes basically filling the cylinders and cleaning the compression rings from the top.
The 4th pic shows the air gun with hose used to purge the old oil. It is held onto the hole in the center of the oil filter housing.

You said what you did with the mini ..but you did not say if your efforts were successful or not

[RIPPERTON]

so it’s not how you change the oil it’s when you do it that makes the difference

Its all about flushing before the oil change. You have to clean the pistons with intensive detergents. You just dont get that in engine oils.

[RIPPERTON]

MetalWorker. I was half way through this treatment of using the engine flush and changing oil and filter after about 500km.
Then the owner says he wants to sell the car and not worry about the blowby.
I said I made it clear what I was going to do before he gave me the car and he agreed.
He got someone else to get rid of the engine warning light on the dash and never heard from him.
I can still see in my mind how dirty those pistons were and my gamble was that there was no actual damage to the pistons, rings or bore and that continuous cleaning would have brought the compression back.

[metalworker0]

Yes, I've heard modern engines have these low-tension piston rings, to create less drag and make the car do better fuel milage.

That's ok for the first 50,000 miles ..then the trouble starts, first the rings get gummed up because of their loose fit ..then they wear the bore out because they are stuck ..so depends on what time you catch it.

Had a friend who i thought had gummed rings ...twenty years ago before the low tension nonsense - CVH Escort
i wanted him to, take spark plugs out put all the pistons at same height down the bore ..and pour cellulose thinners down them and leave it overnight ..then put some oil down the bore to take away the dryness, then do an oil change. he would not go with the idea ..but I'm sure it would have worked somewhat.

all the best.mark

[Altransit]

i wanted him to, take spark plugs out put all the pistons at same height down the bore ..and pour cellulose thinners down them and leave it overnight ..then put some oil down the bore to take away the dryness, then do an oil change. he would not go with the idea ..but I'm sure it would have worked somewhat.

all the best.mark

Didn't we used to do that with RedEx?

[metalworker0]

i tried the redex with a Yamaha YG1 in about 1980 ish

Took the head off ..noted the amount of coke

put it back together ...turned bike frame at angle so i could put redex on the piston.
left over night
started up next day ./..went for run of 10 miles
took it apart ..and it looked exactly the same ..no change at all.

all the best.mark

[LozB]

New to transits with a 2017 2.0 130. The stated fire service interval is 36000 miles or 2 years. My van’s first owner seemed to follow this for the first service (done at 2 years and 37k) but then had 5 services in the next 3 years and 30k miles. Have I bought myself trouble? Plan to do yearly or every 10k miles going forward. Any thoughts/suggestions?

[RIPPERTON]

First service at 36000 miles ?? Theres no way I would listen to that, I would be doing oil and filter at 6000 m intervals.
Its clear to me the dealerships want your engine destroyed as soon as possible.
I think there is some legal jargon happening here to like the difference between service and oil change.

[metalworker0]

Some of it is down to this:
its fleet buyers.
When they go to buy vehicles, they look at service intervals to see how much they have to pay out to keep the fleet going.

So, when buying it's a cost factor ..and manufacturers stretch the intervals to get sales.

all the best.mark