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2020 Cold Start Woes

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2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby Smithdan04 » Sat Apr 26, 2025 10:25 am

Hello all,

First post here and first time Custom owner.

Bought myself a lovely 2020 Limited 130PS 280 last week, appeared to have been very well looked after with FSH and in immaculate condition. Only 42k miles. But that’s where the good news ends i’m afraid….

I’m no mechanic but i’ve been working on cars and vans for the last 20 odd years, but this one has me stumped!

It simply refuses to start when the engine cold (irrelevant of the outside temperature). It cranks and cranks and cranks for up to the 60 seconds that the ECU allows and just will not start. Sometimes there is a small glimmer of hope as it feels like it’s about to start but rarely does.

With a tiny spray of easy start or brake cleaner, she fires right into life and runs really well. There are no issues when warm starting or when the start/stop kicks in. It starts on the button every time.

I’ve done a leak off test on the injectors, one was slightly worse than others so it’s had a brand new set - no difference.
Had it on ForScan and the actual fuel pressures when cranking are almost exactly what is demanded, LPFP is working and delivering pressure and there are no other fault codes in the van.
Battery is brand new too, and have had it on a jump pack just in case. Voltage is healthy.
Changed the crank sensor (had some issues on some VWs and Renaults in the past where the Crank sensor would fault when cold) - no difference.

As I said, when it’s idling from stone cold or warm, it revs freely, has loads of torque, doesnt smoke or anything. So i’m absolutely at a loss.

I’ve read about valve seats and possible other issues but hoping for some guidance here. Anything to prevent my imminent divorce!!

TIA!
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Apr 26, 2025 1:56 pm

I would have a look at the fuel filter first ..these i think ..well on the 2016 ones have plastic housings ..and get over tightened and become brittle and crack. then they leak air into the fuel system or allow fuel to return to the tank, you'll see on ebay by the quantity advertised on there, that is for whole housings, that this is a failing point.

Next failure point is the fuel pump in the tank.

check them out then come back if you still have the same problem - listed cheapest and easiest first

all the best.mark
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby Smithdan04 » Sat Apr 26, 2025 2:51 pm

Thanks Mark.

I’d not changed the filter housing but i’ll do that today.

I’ve checked pressures on the LP Fuel pump and seems to be delivering a good volune too.

Thanks for the reply, keep you posted!
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Apr 26, 2025 2:57 pm

NOTE ..i did not say change it, i said check it

all the best.mark
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby Smithdan04 » Sat Apr 26, 2025 3:03 pm

Appreciate that, I did buy another one last week but didn’t get round to changing it. Cheers
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby metalworker0 » Sat Apr 26, 2025 3:28 pm

watch this video, may be the same faults as you're getting , ..i know he's young ..but often this Filipino guy 100 percent correct.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNfPEckzk6Y

all the best.mark
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby Smithdan04 » Wed Apr 30, 2025 5:18 pm

Thanks for the help so far and references to the youtube video.

I’ve checked all leak off on new injectors, it’s perfect. Fuel pump is delivering good pressure and volume and i’ve changed the fuel filter (again) and housing.

I’m very much lost. Any help appreciated.
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby metalworker0 » Wed Apr 30, 2025 5:47 pm

Batteries? - if a diesel does not crank fast enough , it does not make enough compression to start.

Batteries don't last long if the van is kept in stop /start mode .

Have a drop test done at a tyre / exhaust / battery place or Halfords ..should be free .


forget that ..just read you have a brand new battery and tried a jump pack with it .

will do a search and come back with some ideas



all the best.mark
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby metalworker0 » Wed Apr 30, 2025 6:18 pm

OK, lots of people have come here with same problem, many times, but no resolve.

This thread just about covers all they have done to find out whats going on ...including every answer ive given you plus more.

viewtopic.php?f=64&t=222090

One guy on the thread who is a transit specialist seems to think its piston a bore wear because of borewash caused by the vans DPF regeneration method, and soft valves, the dpf regeneration, well this involves squirting extra diesel into the cylinders on the exhaust stroke to help with higher temperatures for regeneration.

so you need to do a compression test to rule that out .


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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby Smithdan04 » Wed Apr 30, 2025 10:17 pm

Thanks for the efforts. I’m starting to think that it’s likely low compression. I’m going to carry out a compression test over the weekend.

Does anyone know what the specs should be on the 2.0 ecoblue?

Thanks
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby metalworker0 » Wed Apr 30, 2025 10:52 pm

should be all over 300 psi ..if they are its not the problem

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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby Mranoncustom » Fri May 02, 2025 8:58 pm

If the compression test comes back low try to carry out a cylinder leakage test.

More than likely you will find the valves on the cylinder head are pitted and not seating correctly. Seen this issue multiple times now. All
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby Smithdan04 » Sun May 25, 2025 10:39 pm

Thanks all so much for feedback on this.

Carried out a compression test and the three cylinders I could be bothered to test (one glow plug is a PITA to get to).

All three were between 220-235 PSI. So I think it’s time to tear the engine down. I’m now suspecting worn valve seats (at least i’m praying it’s that and not worn rings!)
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Re: 2020 Cold Start Woes

Postby metalworker0 » Sun May 25, 2025 11:43 pm

Well first off, to do a compression test ..all injectors or glowplugs have to be removed to allow engine to spin over fast enough to make for maximum readings ..you'll also need a fully charged good battery

Additional test - In a compression test you can work out ..if rings or valves , by sealing the pistons with engine oil, if, when this is done, compression goes up, it will prove it's not the valves.

Note: these engines have a deep hole in the centre of the piston, so oil should somehow be trickled around the edge of piston ..you don't want to use more than a tea spoon of oil.

Before doing any of this, note that a poor battery or starter motor will prevent engine starting, due to not enough speed to get the compression pressures up. cranking amps (everything back together) on average temperature day should be between 70-90 amps .. anymore and then you suspect the starter . you need a clip on ammeter to do this test.

On another thread here was a guy with 38,000 miles and has experienced the same as you.

viewtopic.php?f=65&t=208956


all the best.mark
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