What should my maintence shcedule be?

[davee350]

Back in the room with a shiny old 2014 2.2 TDCI 330 eco-tech

Was searching for a work horse, got this as chain drive and can carry a half decent weight. I didn't get one of those manual things but a bunch O maintenance recipts. Question is what should be done at what mileage, who does what when, who ignores it and does something else instead because it gives longevity?

Looking for a consensus of do this at X mileage, do X each year or spray oil the chassis quick! etc etc Looking for hardened transit custom nuts to show me the light

[metalworker0]

First tell us how many miles a year you do .. how many long or short journeys you do
Engine oil, because changing oil every 6000 will not be a big hit on the van doing 6000 a year .. but could be if you did 24,000 a year.
.. but those high miles almost always equally long trips .. so you can perhaps go 12,000 between oil changes , it all goes on how you drive it

Short trips or low annual mileage = change engine oil every 6000 miles or every year what ever comes first
Longer trips and high annual mileage = change engine oil every 10,000 - 12,000 miles

Gearbox oil every 50-60 thousand miles , or strait away if it's gone over that and you don't know the history.

Power steering fluid 50-60 thousand miles, or strait away if it gone over that and you don't know the history

Diff oil if RWD , 50-60 thousand miles, or strait away if it gone over that and you don't know history

Brake fluid .. 2- 3 years or strait away if you don't know the history

Cooling system - needs flushing and replacing every 5 years. if you use 5 year -
coolant fords pink stuff .5 years
. or 10 years fords latest yellow stuff

Rust protection -- well depends on its age and how much time rust has had to gain a hold -- they rust from the inside out.

all the best.mark

[davee350]

Thank Mark

Will most probably do about 10K then drop to maybe 5k year 2, but you have a very valid point as i dont know if those specific oils fluids have been done, i think i may as well do them all, then i know where i am starting from.

I was going to do engine oil / fileter / air / fuel filter but will add on Gearbox oil, Power steering fluid, Diff oil,
Brake fluid, i think i saw coolant flush in paperwork but will do that anyway. I hear mixed things on the lanoguard thing for underbody, but as you say, they rot from the inside out, will most probably get some form of mixture on there as well, have not decided which yet

Cheers

[metalworker0]

You need a boroscope to look into sills and stuff to see how its constructed .. it can be complicated with hidden box sections within

this is a transit connect sill

download/file.php?id=38373&mode=view

and this is what the sill turns into near the front wing .. the slab of metal is what i put in to make a a stronger jacking point.the rest is just copied from original

download/file.php?id=39055&mode=view

never used lanogaurd .. so don't know

i can tell you what NOT to use
any bitumen based product including products named: the old type of shultz , bitumen underseal, bitumen paint, tar etc, as they will dry out in 5 years cracking and letting water under the coating, so promoting rust, not stopping it.

all the best.mark

[dumper]

Yes as mark said and your own plan with a used van it’s a good idea to start from fresh and change all the fluids and filters as for body anti corrosion before I retired I was able to service my mk 6 jumbo at work so underneath on the exterior floor and chassis and xmembers I waxoiled but for inside of them as well as the waxoil every time I did a oil change I sprayed the oil while still warm inside the chassis and sills the only corrosion it has was the bottom of the front wings I dropped a clanger there as I didn’t remove the splash guards and spray behind them this was done from 3 years old so got a better start then on a older van that’s had nothing done just check this morning on its mot history and at 20 years old it’s not had any advisory’s for corrosion .
If you only use the waste oil it’s only going to cost you a bit of time