Eco blue intermediate cog issue.

[hi_tower]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225901734355?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749392&toolid=20006&_ul=GB&customid=GB_131090_225901734355.142394001106~1872072053958-g_CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFozTcRIXHOLRqEyVIm4m0PgKYtV916iHdEswaoMGfeiiyl-2ut4sRtRoCz6IQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADihhqVAlArIsiS66EQ2cPpxin81o&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFozTcRIXHOLRqEyVIm4m0PgKYtV916iHdEswaoMGfeiiyl-2ut4sRtRoCz6IQAvD_BwE

Thanks for the links. The cogs in those photos have the bayonets disengaged. When they are engaged the end of the spring in the thin cog is pushed towards the centre and then turned anti clockwise. Like this.
https://flic.kr/p/2pK9tEq
You can see a hole is revealed when the cog is moved around. Is this for a locking pin?

[My van hates me]

This topic, I think, covers the part in question as being problematic in some years. Shows the parts disengaged but with a pin holding them open
viewtopic.php?f=64&t=202868

[My van hates me]

Seems our open and closed are opposite haha
I think yes, there is a pin to hold them in position for timing purposes.

[My van hates me]

https://transitteile.com/Original-Ford- ... 313884-NEU

With pin in place

[My van hates me]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kNJbVfA5RO8

None the wiser about the location of the tabs but is clearly pinned for timing. The laser etc. kits come with a specific holder

[hi_tower]

I managed to get hold of the Ford dealer manual on pdf today and it seem the thin wheel is twisted around against the spring which engages the bayonets and then a pin is inserted. When the wheels are fitted the pin is pulled and this pre tensions the wheels to stop chatter.
https://flic.kr/p/2pKDnjG

[hi_tower]

And having not taken one apart , i'm not quite familiar
but does that cog removal require a new bolt when installed...something about diamond coated flange bolt - antislip ..one use only comes to mind

and look at picture ..i may be wrong ..does this cog drive the fuel pump ..note oil seal "hr1" in the picture..i would imagine that gets crushed and is one use only

https://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l ... QwMjUrMTMz
I found the torque setting for the fuel pump sprocket which was also in the manual.
https://flic.kr/p/2pKCbHw

no one knows the torque for this bolt ..we have looked extensively in the last couple of weeks.

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

ok thanks

I've added these torques to 2 threads that went unanswered.

and just in case your picture vanishes


fuel pump sprocket bolt
stage 1. 25 nm
stage 2. 75 nm

all the best ..mark

[Alfaroo]

Hi , just done a timing belt change today on 2016 transit and the same thing happened, rotated engine several times to align marks & ping both thin gears on idler and pump popped off the back and are now loose. What was your fix for this. I removed the idler pulley and couldn’t work out how to position it and I’m now waiting for a tool to arrive to remove the pump gear

[hi_tower]

Hi , just done a timing belt change today on 2016 transit and the same thing happened, rotated engine several times to align marks & ping both thin gears on idler and pump popped off the back and are now loose. What was your fix for this. I removed the idler pulley and couldn’t work out how to position it and I’m now waiting for a tool to arrive to remove the pump gear

I didn’t remove the fuel pump gear.
I made I little tool to hold the fuel pump gear from a bit of broken hacksaw blade. One end had a hole for a bolt that screwed into the fuel pump gear wheel the other end had a hole that bolted into one of the timing cover holes. That held the fuel pump gear static. The crank was held by the tool from the timing belt tool kit. Then I could remove the intermediate gear without everything going out of time. I managed to get the sprung wheel back onto the fuel pump gear from the front with the help of a little dentist mirror , twist it back into the tensioned position and insert the pin (or drill bit) into the front hole. I put the sprung wheel onto the back of the intermediate gear, twisted it into the tensioned position and inserted the pin into the front hole to hold it. I then refitted the intermediate gear with a new bolt (very important) then you can pull the pins and you should be back in business. I did have tippex dots all over the place just in case something moved. I made a plastic spacer the same thickness as the flywheel pulley from sink waste pipe so next time I turned the engine over the crank gear can’t ride forward and release the sprung gears.
Hope this makes sense.
Sorry it’s taken so long to reply. I’ve been on holiday.