Upgrading the door speakers

[mic71]

Hi all
I used to be a car audio installer but have now moved into comercial audio visual installations.
I have just upgraded my door speakers and tweeters to these.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jbl-cs7 ... t-speakers

It has màde a big difference.
I also sound deadened the doors with butyl flashing tape from screwfix.

http://m.screwfix.com/p/sika-multiseal- ... tered=true

If you are going to replace the OEM speakers without adding an amplifier choose speakers with a high sensitivity the JBL I chose have 92 dB sensitivity.
I will also be installing one of these over the Christmas break.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/subwoof ... e-sub-4925

I recon that will finish it off nicely.
I will post when I have put the sub in and let you all know how it sounds.
Merry Christmas.......

[jasonx]

I will post when I have put the sub in and let you all know how it sounds.
Merry Christmas.......

Please do and I am very interested in how well the butyl flashing tape works

[mic71]

OK
All installed know and I have noticed a big difference. Alot of it maybe due to the paper coned 50pence speakers installed as standard by ford but I would high recommend using some kind of sound deadening in the doors. The panels are large which leaves a big area for reverberation.
I have used dynomat in the past and it works but its expensive. I read a few posts and articles over the years about alternatives, most are bitumen based I would stay away from these due to the smell in hot weather and if you have a dark colour even worse I've heard of people have it just melt off and when it cools again it is all just rattling around in the bottom of the doors.
The butyl flashing tape I used from screwfix has done the job. I can't compare it to if I had used dynomat as all installs are different but I can't imagine you would gain much if anything by spending the extra on the dynomat.
I just filled the door up with it where I could get to on the outer skin and doubled up about a 250mm square directly behind the speaker. Then used it on the panel around the speaker mounting point.
I now get punchy mid bass notes that just wherent there before.
The tweeters are soooo much better in comparison and installing a under seat sub just adds that extra you could never get from what was installed before.
In my opinion no amplification is needed. I now have a quality sounding system that I get enough control of using the head unit and remote for the subwoofer.
Car audio is although one of those things that you could go on spending and spending looking for perfection but everyone's idea of perfection is different....
I feel I have spent a little just short of £180 but gained alot.
Happy new year to you all...

[Beamer]

Has anybody looked at this:

http://www.jehnert.de/en/produkt-katego ... aravan-en/

Already preconfigured for our Custom. I am looking in buying a set. I am not sure, if it has to be the premium plus.

[mic71]

These do seem to be by a reputable brand hence the price.
I just wouldn't want those pods at the bottom of my a pillars.
I am happy with the sound I have achieved with mine...

[arf33]

Yes I saw that but although the new speakers have the positive and negative marked, theres nothing to differentiate the wires from the van.

Can you not turn the radio on and the put a volt meter on the ends to earth and see which one is supplying the feed. that will be the POS.

I also tried this way but on both terminals I read +5,bla bla bla volts...so positive feed in both...I'm confused

I think that with the 9v battery will be more easy...just check the OEM speaker with the battery...then we know how are connector poles...

bye

[arf33]

I bought one of these http://www.roadradio.com/Dynamat/Xtreme-Door-Kit/ and used 1 1/2 sheets in each door.

Nice one, ive seen these kits around but all seem to relate to cars so wasnt sure if 4 sheets was enough. May as well just buy some, seems there really is no alternative to dynamat.

I found this in a DIY shop (Leroy Merlin):

Mappysilent
EPDM rubber + minerals

from their TDS:

"Mappysilent is an elastomeric barrier added with mineral loads. It is a damping material ideal as lead substitute, furthermore it is eco-friendly as it does not contain polluting substances such as bitumen and VOC. Mappysilent is also available in an adhesive version with hot-melt glue.
Mappysilent is an acoustic barrier suitable for use in all cases where a sound insulation material is required. It is therefore used to reduce vibrations in metal, sheet metal, glass, resin and plastic laminate structures. In construction Mappysilent is ideal in all cases where a sound impedance material between adjacent rooms is required; it can be easily coupled to sheets for drywall (plasterboard, wood, magnesium) to increase the acoustic performance and be used on either walls or ceilings. It is suitable to be used as under-tile product to acoustically insulate floor tiles from the main building in floor renovation as well as new construction. The small thickness makes Mappysilent a perfect ideal for sound insulation of pipes in particular outlet pipes, outlet columns, pipes for channelling systems in general, and mainly in the presence of reduced space availability."

no smell during application, very good appearance

cost me 50€ for 2 rolls of 0.5mt x 2mt





I think it worth the price and it's technically made for it

bye

[arf33]

Hi,

saturday and sunday I finalize the doors speaker and soundproofing job.

now everything pass trough the crossovers, focal tweeter in the pillars and mis-woofer on the doors...

but now I have a noise issue audible only with the engine ON, it's like a "whistle" that changing tone with increasing of rpm.
With engine OFF the sound is perfect.
with engine ON I have the noise either with the radio ON or OFF.

I'm pretty convinced that it's related to where I routed the cables... for example I use a tie wrap to fasten the left crossover to the fuse box wiring harness...

apart to make some test by moving the cables, someone had a similar problem?

thanks
Francesco

[Mike]

I'm pretty convinced that it's related to where I routed the cables... for example I use a tie wrap to fasten the left crossover to the fuse box wiring harness

Almost certainly the placement of the x-over, they're the only things that are susceptible to interference as they have coils in them.

[arf33]

thanks Mike,

i will try to move it (I think is the left one only).

but today...strange...NO noise

I'm confused

[arf33]

also this morning NO noises from the engine

I'm building my theory:

1- ok, the left crossover is not propely placed (fasten to the wiring harness of the veichle)
2- the whistle noise coming from engine RPM only happen when some engine electrical devices is feeding power or signal through some wire inside the harness.
3- sunday evening happened the noise
4- monday morning and evening NO noise, tuesday morining NO noise.

make sense ?

[arf33]

this evening again the noise...I'm becaming mad

[Trasher83]

I had the same problem with my Vivaro, I had replaced the stereo and added an amp + active sub. The only way I got the noise to stop was to take the positive and negative feeds to both the stereo and the amp directly from the battery. Maybe give it a try?

I suspect it was a grounding problem, previously I had the amps negative directly into the chassis of the car and the stereos using the cars own cables. This was however a poorly made Vivaro, after the warranty expired everything broke down - I had it a little over 2 years after the warranty expired and put a little over 5000€ in repairs -_-

[arf33]

understood...

but to me this problem started after the speacker update, so probably it's a wire routing issue...I will try to solve.

anyway what it's really strange is that the noise came and gone...it's not a stable problem... crazy

[arf33]

yesterday I moved the left crossover as far was possible from the main wiring near the fuse box...

till now no noise...but it's to early to say "good"

I will update