Upgrading the door speakers

[Marky M]

Did you already instal the amp. How did you removen the radio

Everything is already in place (rear speakers and amp, bud still have to connect it to the radio.

Removing the radio is easy, lift up the lid behind the screen. 3 screws, and the screen comes off. You'll see the wires and just cut the correct ones.

Thanks.

When the temp drops, I will take a look at it.

[Trasher83]

Did you already instal the amp. How did you removen the radio

Everything is already in place (rear speakers and amp, bud still have to connect it to the radio.

Removing the radio is easy, lift up the lid behind the screen. 3 screws, and the screen comes off. You'll see the wires and just cut the correct ones.

Thanks.

When the temp drops, I will take a look at it.

Good luck it is enough to just remove the screen, but it is easier if you remove the facia completely, IIRC there's 4 more screws behind the screen, remove those and the facia should come off.

Here's the colorcodes for the wires:
White/White with black= left front
Gray/Gray with black stripe= right front
Green/Green with black stripe= left rear
Purple/Purple with black strips= right rear

[Baz9]

Hi

Will try to fit this set in to the door
Rainbow IL-C8.2F 200mm

Hi, did you manage to fit these in?

[Marky M]

Good luck it is enough to just remove the screen, but it is easier if you remove the facia completely, IIRC there's 4 more screws behind the screen, remove those and the facia should come off.

Here's the colorcodes for the wires:
White/White with black= left front
Gray/Gray with black stripe= right front
Green/Green with black stripe= left rear
Purple/Purple with black strips= right rear

Thanks.

Gonna post if everything is done

[Marky M]

Which wire (color) did u used for the Amp remoteby the way

[Trasher83]

Which wire (color) did u used for the Amp remoteby the way

My amp has highlvl inputs, so I don't need remote. My guess is, you can't get remote from the stereo, prob need to take it from the 12v socket

[Marky M]

Today connected te Amp to the radio. The 12v socket is permanent on. I've connected the remote to the blue wire of the air unit.
Everything works now and sounds good.

[Marky M]

Wire diagrams radio 2018.

If you don't have a DC, you can the rear speakers wires don't work!

[Baz9]

Hi Guys,

Does anyone know why I can't see the pictures anymore on the lead post?

I want to fit a pair of Focal Integration ISU200 in my Custom. A full 8" will always be better than 6.5" in my experience. Has anyone tried fitting an 8"?

The pics at the front had a good tear down sequence, but I can't seem to get it anymore.

Also, I want to get a pair of rear speakers hooked up. I need to tweak the IDS I gather ( need a speed restricter taken off anyway, so 2 birds) but did anyone find the cables for the rear speakers? Under the ply backing behind the driver and in front of the wheel arch? The same wiring loom as a Torneo, apparently

All advice welcome. I've got a factory fitted Bose kit in my Mazda, and it makes the Custom sound dire in comparison!

Cheers

Baz

[Marky M]

If you don't have rear speakers yet, the radio is not set to give sound to the rear speakers. I hooked the rear to the front wires. Works perfect.

[mic71]

Sorry of I have missed this anywhere.
Does anyone know what the output wattage per channel is of the sync 3 system?

[tssduk]

We have just picked A MY15 Tourneo Custom and I must say the sound quality is awful!
It's worse than our MY06 Zafira by a lot.
I've seen mention of 20cm and 16.5cm speakers.
What is standard, and what is best to fit?
Back in my Younger days, it was the biggest cone size that would fit, to get lower Bass response, Obviously, same quality of speaker for each size.

[sieade245]

Hi Guys. I'm currently installing a Vibe powerbox 4 channel micro amp behind the stock radio only head unit, hopefully it will just about fit in there and using a parrot bluetooth lead for ISO IN-OUT so should be a clean hidden install.

The amp is only 65W per channel but I'm thinking this should be a nice little boost and take strain off the HU amplifer. I currently have the stock front speakers 2 A pillar tweeters and 2 door speakers.

I'm also adding a small active underseat subwoofer Vibe 8 which will be fed from rear high level outputs, if they work or I have to activate them we'll find out soon as I'm taking pictures as I go for the write up at the end.

The stock speakers...I "might" also make a small upgrade, it depends on what the system sounds like with the amp and the subwoofer. I might not need to upgrade them as I have found in the past that sometimes just adding a small amp can get a bit more sound out of stock speakers, although having read all the reports here from people who have upgraded an upgrade may be required. I don't want to spend loads on this, all the parts I have bought so far have been used from Ebay to save money. I will definitely use the Butyl flash tape for deadening but then I'm thinking after reading what a pig the door cards can be if I'm going in, I might only want to go in once..so do the speaker upgrade at the same time. Thanks for all the info on the door speakers sizes and the focus adapter rings. I'm going to get some ford speaker adaptor plugs so I can put all this back to stock in the future if I sell the van.

I've been looking at either the Vibe Slick 6 components or the JBL 600C components. The vibes are a little bit cheaper but again..I'll probably be buying used depending on what comes up on Ebay. I can't afford Focals and I've had both JBL and Vibe in the past and they've been fine, I don't listen to dance music, mainly country and easy listening and a bit of AOR. I think I might be one of the first to try the Vibe powerbox in our vans so its a bit of trial and error at the moment.

I did have one question. After reading through this thread, everyone seems to have no issues with replacing the door speakers...but did anybody have any issues replacing the tweeters? Are any brackets/ adaptors required for these. I'm hoping there is room behind the A-pillar for the small inline crossovers that come with both sets of speaker. Both 6" speakers in the sets are happy to accept full range sound, the crossovers are only used for the tweeters which makes the install easy, I can use the existing factory speaker cables with adaptors at the 6" speakers and adaptors/ crossover at the tweeters. I checked the wiring diagram and there doesn't appear to be any factory fitted crossover, the cable just splits off somewhere between the HU and the door.

[sieade245]

OK Just a quick update. All my bits are here...but not the subwoofer I thought I would see what the normal speakers can do without one first before I spend another 60-70 quid on this. The full writeup will be done with pics when I'm finished.

The amp takes a whole 5 minutes to fit and fits nicely behind the stereo, I switched it on with the stock speakers first because I wanted to see if there was any difference. AND YES THERE IS!!!

The Ford Head Unit is absolutely the weak link. With the amp sat inline from the HU speaker outputs, the stock door speakers can finally breathe properly. The bass is 100% better, maybe more. I could actually feel the air against my leg coming from the door speaker and it already sounds like a small subwoofer is fitted. And the main point...no distortion even at stupidly high volume (from the door speakers at least) To be clear, this is with THE STOCK DOOR SPEAKERS. But, the high range still does sound crap, there's no getting away from it, the stock tweeters are rubbish. They massively distort even at mid level volumes. So the problem is you can't have decent volume from the doors, because the stock tweeters will make you want to turn it back down again.

So, I've replaced them with my new tweeters from my new component speaker set and tried again. I left the stock door speakers in.

And it sounds MUCH better. You can get it up to anti-social volume levels and the tweeters can take it..and so can the stock door speakers.

Only problem now is that I'm not sure I can be bothered to go any further and rip the doors apart to change the door speakers when they already seem to be up to the job. I think the main reason is to fit the sound deadening as people have already recommended. But this will likely make the stock door speakers even better on their own! I'll have a beer and think about this. The high level is sorted and the low level is sorted...but the mids also come from the doors and I reckon this could be the key. The mids should be better with the new speakers so 2 beers and I'll probably crack on.

[Mike]

The speakers are the weakest link by far. The standard HU with decent speakers is remarkably good, but as you’ve realised, the standard amplifier lets things down. JL Audio speakers (with Dynamat), amp and a BitOne is a very good setup. A decent small sub is the icing on the cake.