Upgrading the door speakers

[Mike]

However this isn't the case where a speaker is placed in any cabinet or enclosure it is also not the case when you have any more than one speaker as in a stereo set up or a speaker cabinet with a woofer mid and high.

We're talking about a van, no cabinets are involved but I agree that the speakers on each channel should be wired the same, but it makes no difference which way you do it.

Speaker are designed by the manufacturers to be connected in the correct polarity. Why would they have a poss and minus terminal?
Would just be a and b or 1 and 2?.

They have a + and - because it makes it easier to wire correctly, the reason they have + and - instead of A and B is just a reflection of the system being electrical based.

Yes subwoofers do have the ability to reverse phase but have you ever heard of a mid or tweeter with this ability??

Yes, my BitOne has the ability to switch phase on all the channels, it's essential when you're using TA to tune a system.

Wire them by the book and you won't run into any problems or lack of clarity.....

Very true, but if the wire or speaker isn't marked......oh look that's what the poster asked.

[mic71]

An amplifier has a poss and neg terminal is it not common sense that this should be wired correctly to a speaker poss and neg terminal.?

[Mike]

An amplifier has a poss and neg terminal is it not common sense that this should be wired correctly to a speaker poss and neg terminal.?

Yes, but that’s not relevant to this current conversation.

[Altransit]

Think you'll find it does matter.
Speakers work on a correct polarity. Yes they will work either way but one way is correct and will make the speaker perform better.
The cone of the speaker either moves in or out I think the cone should move outward when connected properly.

If you understand that speakers are driven by sine waves, which are AC and not DC, then you'll understand that the speakers don't have a positive and negative terminal, as such, they are simply marked that way so that correct phasing can be achieved when wiring them in any sort of multiple environment.
The cone of a speaker will be driven in both directions (both in and out) by the sine wave signal of the amplifier, and it's only important that they are travelling in the same direction, at the same time, otherwise the sound will be out of phase, and very hollow sounding.

[mic71]

However this isn't the case where a speaker is placed in any cabinet or enclosure it is also not the case when you have any more than one speaker as in a stereo set up or a speaker cabinet with a woofer mid and high.

We're talking about a van, no cabinets are involved but I agree that the speakers on each channel should be wired the same, but it makes no difference which way you do it.

Speaker are designed by the manufacturers to be connected in the correct polarity. Why would they have a poss and minus terminal?
Would just be a and b or 1 and 2?.

They have a + and - because it makes it easier to wire correctly, the reason they have + and - instead of A and B is just a reflection of the system being electrical based.

Yes subwoofers do have the ability to reverse phase but have you ever heard of a mid or tweeter with this ability??

Yes, my BitOne has the ability to switch phase on all the channels, it's essential when you're using TA to tune a system.

Wire them by the book and you won't run into any problems or lack of clarity.....

Very true, but if the wire or speaker isn't marked......oh look that's what the poster asked.

If this is the case.
Does the same apply when wiring through a crossover for separate component speakers?

[Mike]

You’ve quoted 4 posts, what’s your actual question?

[Wigwig]

Great thread this, probably the best resource on the subject I can find on the web on this subject.

I have a 2015 Transit Custom, its the most basic spec afaik. The HU doesn't have any equalizer settings that I can find and I'm keen to upgrade asap, just picked the van up 2 weeks ago. In my old Van, a Master, I had a cheap FLI amp, some Pioneer Coaxials, a Pioneer HU and a Pioneer TS-WX70DA Subhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/i/163157079187?chn=ps. The sub doesn't fit in the new Van, pretty annoying really.

Plan is to sell that set up and the proposed new install is:

Pioneer GMd8604 https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/gm-d8604 thats a digital 4 channel amp

JL Audio TW1 Sub http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/car-audio-subw ... rivers-tw1

Audison Bit Ten (not the digital version), which I picked up second hand.

Undecided Focal components (tips?)

I have a few questions about the proposed set up, so:

1. Will the Bit Ten work alongside a Digital Amp and would I be better passing on the Bit Ten and getting a fascia kit and a new HU with an equaliser? The only buttons on the steering wheel that I think I would lose are the volume and forward/backwards.

2. Am I underpowering the sub as that Amp has an RMS of 100w, the sub can go up to 300 RMS but works from 75 to 300.

3. What connector do I need to to plug into Fuse 21?


I'm also considering this active sub https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rockford-Fosga ... B007AQ2W6W Which has high level inputs and would mean I can just run the components off the Pioneer amp, but would obviously mean extra wiring etc.

Any help would be much appreciated!

[Wigwig]

OK, I've done some more research and I'm more familiar with the DSP install process and I've amended the install

Im now going with a Audison 10" sub with JL Audio XD600 to power that. A Mosconi 130.4 integrated amp/dsp and Focal components.

I've been reading the manuals for all the products and I think the only thing I'm unsure of is getting a signal to the the DSP/amp and then onto the door speakers. Am I correct in thinking that I will cut the 4 front left and front right speaker wires from the back of the oem HU, solder these to new wire, run to the amp, then wire back from the DSP and connect to the cut end of the wires that are at the back of the OEM?

Would I be better tracking the speaker wires to as near to the door as I can and cut and solder there as that will be a shorter run when I come to running the new speaker wires?

Also, I want to take up the factory floor mat and dodo mat the floor, is this just going to a case of clipping out some panels and lifting out the rubber flooring?