Door lock sensor fault

[Baldbloke]

Hi all
This is my first post so please be gentle.
I have a fault on my 16plate transit custom.
The Drivers door won’t lock with the fob.
When I use the fob it beeps at me as it would if a door was left open.
I can manually lock the drivers door and then use the fob and no beep.
If I then unlock the van with the fob the drivers door won’t unlock unless manually using the key.
Is this an easy job to fix?
Regards
Will...

[S60r]

Hi Will,

Welcome... introduce yourself in the welcome section prior to posting your first question.... there seem to be loads of one time posters who join with an issue and then bugger off without even a nod.


I'm sure someone on here will have advice for your issue though

[p2thed]

Could be a fault with the latch contact switch. First thing i would check though is to pull back the insulation cover on the drivers door loom between door and "A" oillar and check for a brocken or cracked wire. The looms of get damaged over time due to normal wear with the door opening and closing.

[Baldbloke]

Apologies S60r, new to this and will be more than a 1 timer.

P2thed: I will have a look next week and see if that is it.
I will post a reply once checked

[Woodywoodýwood]

It will be the wiring loom in the door pillar junction. Remove the door card, free up the wiring loom by unplugging what you can and gently nursing loom securing points so the loom is loose. Feed it towards the junction. With door open wide, remove rubber boot and pull through loom as much as you can. Be gently though. You will see the broken wires and you can add a little wire, - adding a little is safer than just joining. If you are heavy handed you may break other damaged wires so be easy with it.

[willemb]

Newby here. Ran into the same problem. This is the connector from the electrical part of the lock. From other sources I understood that these actuators typically get a pulse, that is reversed in polarity to lock/unlock. Does anybody know between which pins I should see that pulse? Is it a very short pulse or should I see it on a (digital) multimeter?
Currently I only get a steady 10.5 V on the left 3 pins. Nothing seems to happen on the others.
BTW to get the door card off this thread was very helpful.

[willemb]

My multimeter appears to be too slow. With a LED voltage tester I'm seeing a short (about 0.5 second) pulse between pins 4 and 8 counting left to right on the picture above. The pulse seems to go both + and -, in different order for lock/unlock. So I guess it will be the actuator in my case. Let's see how to get the lock out....

[Woodywoodýwood]

Did you have a quick inspection of the loom where it goes into the door at the junction ?

[willemb]

Did you have a quick inspection of the loom where it goes into the door at the junction ?

Yes, I did and all the wires look undamaged. Also I get a clear pulse on the the connector at the lock. So my conclusion was that it should be the actuator. I ordered a lock from a car dismantling shop that should - according to the the description - fit my LHD 2015 270s drivers door. What arrived is clearly for a different model or door. It is labeled BK21-V219A65-AH. It has 6 pins occupied in the connector, mine has 7.

On the next dry day I will take a deep breath and take my current lock out and drive off to that shop. Hopefully I will be able to lock my van that night.

[Woodywoodýwood]

Any updates on this fir others to see ?

[willemb]

Any updates on this fir others to see ?

Still no white smoke. I've been ill for quite some time (no, not Covid-19). It's not the lock actuator. It locks if I put 12 V on pins 7 and 8 for a split second and unlocks if change polarity. (No idea what the other 5 pins are for. Probably 2 to report the lock status to the BCM, but there's 3 more.) So it must be the wiring loom, like you said. The part in the door is often blamed, like in this video. Mine looks good though, no sign of broken wires. I have not found the time to test all the wires individually. Or get a loom from a car dismantling shop. A new loom is over 200 Euro...

[Woodywoodýwood]

This might sound like clutching at straws....if the loom gas been damaged before the gators fitted in the factory for example, the pvc sheath my be broken, as if you had put wire strippers onto the wire, cut the outer but not the inner copper. When the door is opened and it stretches the wire, it may expose the inners which may be touching each other. I had the on a golf mk4 boot junction and it's fairly common. Seen similar on other cars too. On initial inspection it can look completely fine. As it's where the grommet is, it can be quite hard to spot as the grommet keeps trying to be where you are looking.

[willemb]

For half a year I was too busy to work on this and manually locked/unlocked the door. But the electric window started to fail as well. It was the loom as Woodywoodýwood predicted. I had not looked far enough down the rubber cover in the door junction. Some wires were broken right after a piece of cloth tape:



That is about the spot where it goes into the door.

A new loom cost me € 130 incl. 21% VAT. For my LHD 270S Trend the part number is BK2T-14A631-ADF
The quality of the new one doesn't look any better. Insufficient for a delivery van where the drivers door opens 30-50 times a day (my Custom was used for flowers delivery for 4,5 years). The wires contain very few strands and the insulation material is too stiff.

For me as an amateur replacing the loom took 2 hrs. This post helped me find all the hidden screws of the door panel. Tag them, because they are different sizes.

[aln101tf]

As willemb says, the door loom is of poor quality.
The black insulation used is hard and inflexible and cracks very quickly, especially if it did delivery work with the drivers door opened frequently.
My 2013 tourneo drivers door loom had been repaired a few times when I got it at 5 years old.
Most of the wires had cracked insulation.
New loom at £110 did'nt look any better quality, but hopefully will last the time I have it.
rgds Alan

[The Peak]

Thanks for this thread. We have a Tourneo Custom (build 2015, 65 plate in UK) and the driver's door began to be shown as 'open'. This causes a fault when attempting to set the alarm on the fob and the doors won't lock when travelling.

With the help of this thread and the useful video here "Ford Transit Dodgy Drivers Door Wiring" on Youtube at https://youtu.be/oNSOUFWnqaY I replaced the door loom yesterday. All is working again. As has been said, the wires were showing signs of work-hardening next to the tape. This wasn't visible until some of the loom was pushed out of the door.

A used a squirt of silicone spray to get some bits moving (grommets) and the little red reflector was tricky to remove as I didn't want to break it.

The part number of the loom is currently BK2T-14A631-HCJ and the cost £143.71 although I got a little discount (because I asked).

Wiring 1.jpeg

Wiring 2.jpeg

Wiring 3.jpeg