Transit Custom 2018 - Water ingress and electrical demons

[aldervai]

Hey folks,

I've been noticing some water ingress into the cab, around the footwell both the driver and passenger side. Not sure where this is coming from, or how this is happening on a 2018 van. Has anyone else had a water issue? Also, this has resulted in something electrical going amiss. I've been getting a B11D8 error (Restraint Notification Circuit Open) which is related to the Restraint Control Module, and a few other errors in the BCM. This is causing the engine to continue running after the van is turned off and the key removed. It will continue running indefinitely until I pull a start/stop relay in either the Auxillary Junction Box or the Battery Junction Box. The rear lights and indicators also don't work. The front lights switch to the dipped beam setting and will stay like that forever until I pull the negative terminal off the battery. The full beam or DRL won't work.

However, after I pull the negative off the batter and replace it, the system resets and all the lights work fine, showing no short in any of the bulbs. The van locks and unlocks fine, and the DRL lights work. Until I turn the key in the ignition to the on position (without starting). Then the lights go back to the dipped beam, the rear lights stop working, and the engine, once started, will fail to stop until I pull another relay.

It's driving me crazy. Does anyone out there have any idea about this? It would be very much appreciated.

[metalworker0]

I would say its all related to the ignition barrel, worn out ..or key worn out

all the best.mark

[aldervai]

Thanks Mark,

What would make you say that? Does the ignition barrel effect all those systems? What I find strange is that when the van is reset, everything works fine. Then when I put the key in and turn to the first position, it jumps into this 'mode' where the front lights come on and stay on indefinitely, the rear lights don't work (including hazards) and the engine won't shut down if I start it. It's a super strange issue to be having where no code seems to say anything logical.

Thanks for your help, I'll look into the ignition barrel.

[metalworker0]

what I'm saying ..is that this should be the first thing you check out - check by jiggling key etc ..
i hear this item wears out when you or previews owner has had of load weighty (items) dangling from the key ring - this accelerates wear ...as weight pendulums on the key.


..Next is relays ..there may be a frozen one ..or intermittently frozen etc ..may be another one that is the same in the box that you can swap over to prove the theory .

Anyway ..cheap...or easy items first...before you get right into it

all the best.mark

[aldervai]

Thanks Mark,

I tried the key wiggle trick, to no avail, and not sure what relays might be causing this, but I'll have a further look.

Initially, there were a whole host of codes, from the BCM and PCM, referring to lights and sensors, lost communication with ECM/PCM etc, heating system issues etc. But since clearing all the codes and now it's been a few days, the only code that returns is the RCM Restraints Control Module.

Anyhow, I'll see what I can find. thanks.

[metalworker0]

i hear that when the battery voltage is low this can set off all sorts of codes ...but battery voltage low can also mean bad earths or connections somewhere .


all the best.mark

[aldervai]

Thanks Mark,

I tried the battery voltage as one of the first things, as I'm still suffering from a 'charging system service now' issue with the alternator. But the voltage is all good. Still trying some other things today but I'm running out of time before as big trip. Seems like I'll be pulling relays and battery terminals for the next month.

[aldervai]

Confirmed not the ignition barrel. Just put a new one in and still causing the same issue. No idea what it is. Bloody nuisance.

[aldervai]

Also noticed that after a reset by unhooking the battery, the van works fine, with all lights and locks etc working as they should, until the key is turned to position 2. In position 1, it still functions fine. The instant the key is turned to position 2, the front dipped lights engage, and the fuel pump starts. The rear lights fail to work, and the engine once started will not stop.

If anyone has any ideas about this it would be very much appreciated. I tried to get my van into an auto electrician but they were all booked up. Now I'm off on a month-long trip. It's not a case of cost, it's a case of time.

Anyhow, thanks again.

[My van hates me]

I bet that water is getting from the windscreen drain and/or your cup holder and onto what I imagine is the body control module below. Pretty sure that’s where it is and is quite common with similar symptoms in other models with the same layout.
Open the bonnet and run a hose on the screen, you may see water finding it’s way down there and be able to divert it.. otherwise any repair or replacement will be temporary at best

[aldervai]

To update for others reading. Sprayed all electrical connectors in the engine bay with an electrical contact cleaner and hit the road. Several hours of driving later the 'issue' resolved itself. Everything is working fine now. No idea what it was. It will most likely happen again.

[aldervai]

Of course, it happened again, this time a different set of issues, also all electrical.
Two days of heavy rain and suddenly the van stopped running several times on the motorway, but would restart after a minute and would continue. Then the alarm started going off in the night. Followed by the horn going off at random intervals. And finally, the hazards going off after the van is turned off, with the hazard switch not turning them off, and of course, the parking brake showing as being on, even when it's not, so when you're driving the chimes will sound for 10 minutes. Oh the joys, I'm nearly ready to sell this thing on. Booked it into the dealer for next week. No doubt it will cost a fortune but most likely won't fix anything.

[Cryptostu]

Your BCM is knackered.
You need a new one.
I had the same issue, hazards came on & would never go off. Had to disconnect battery. Lost all gauges, fuel, revs etc etc. Engine the shut off on motorway & that was me...towed home.

Do it yourself!
Strip dash under steering wheel (easy) you'll need torx.
Remove headlight module (little difficult) with a mini torx ratchet (ttight area).
Drop it out the way & then remove all bcm plugs (some are tight to unclip)
Remove bcm
Check the label & get replacement match on ebay (cheap)(used).
Put original BCM back in (for now)

When you receive new/used bcm...get a mobile programmer to come do it for you (cheap).
Job done !

All in about 300 bucks. Otherwise dealer over 1.5k.

[aldervai]

Thanks for the reply Cryptostu,

It does indeed appear to be the BCM. But I ran out of time to tinker on this myself. I dropped it off at the dealer who said the issue is from the BCMI, and are replacing it with a new one for £900. They said the leak is coming from the roof rack, and whilst I believe this could be possible, I am rather doubtful as the rack has been on the van since new. Meanwhile, the front windscreen was replaced a few months ago and it looks like some of the plastic louvres at the bottom haven't been fitted correctly. Anyhow, I'm seeing what the story is and will be trying to get it covered by insurance, as the water ingress hasn't been my fault, whether or not it's been the roof rack or the windscreen.

I'll update once things are done with the final causations and costs.

Thanks.

[aldervai]

SOLVED!

Final update. For those reading with similar issues.

Hazards flashing. Lights coming on. Brake lights not working. DRL's not working. Engine not turning off. Parking brake alarm sounding when driving. Vehicle alarm going off. Doors showing open when not. Horn sounding at random times.

All these strange things were because, in my case at least, by water ingress that shorted some connections in my BCM, which is under the steering wheel on the far right-hand side.

Finally fixed it by buying a new BCM from Ford (£310 - second-hand ones on eBay are almost non-existent for my exact part number. They can have a different number, but only if you check with Ford is there are any BCM numbers that superseded the listed number. There were none for mine. Also note, the part number in FORScan is not correct. You'll have to remove the BCM to get the parts number from the box. BCM's for 2020+ customs seem to be readily available.

Had it reprogrammed by a local auto electrician, although harder to find one that can do Ford IDS systems than I might have thought. £140.

Cryptostu had it right, so thanks for that.

I also took out both front seats and lifted the soaking wet floor mats to dry them out. While I was at it I grinded away corrosion and painted with Hammerite. Will keep the main mat off for a while to see if water is still getting in, as I'm not 100% sure I've solved the source of the leak.

The roof rack seems to have been the main culprit, but it is a strange one as the extra holes were blanked off. But I've removed the rack and blanked all holes for now. Will see if water is still getting in from anywhere before refitting the mat. Also will cover the BCM in a plastic guard.

So all in, £460, plus £150 diagnostic fee to Ford, so £610. Plus fully dried mats and a few other things sorted. Also a better understanding of Ford electrics and what lies under the seats (RCM etc).

Trust Ford were going to charge £900 for the same thing, plus an extra £300 to remove and dry the floor mats. I opted to do this myself as I wanted it done right

If you're suffering from these same issues, hopefully, this post will help you along.