Non Sync to SYNC 2.5 Upgrade, with part numbers - completed!

[mafty]

I wanted to upgrade the old 4" screen in my 2019 ex AA custom to a SYNC 2.5 model, with Apple CarPlay.

After trawling the forums here, and in other places, and only getting incomplete or partial information, I decided to do a 'How To', or at least a 'How I Did It'!

All the parts were sourced from ebay, apart from the USB adaptor, which came from Amazon.

The head unit I bought was from a 2022 Custom - Part number LK2T-18D804-HH
The screen is from the same model - Part number L1BT-18B955-FB

Along with the AHU and screen above, I bought a loom from a 2017-2020 fiesta, along with the USB media hub.
I removed the looming tape from the loom and only kept the 2 USB cables (labelled H1BT-14D202-EB and H1BT-14D202-CB) and the grey 4 pin flat power plug.
I cut the other large square end off of the power plug cable as it is not needed.

I ran the 2 USB cables behind the dash from the USB Hub in the top binnacle to the head unit. The square black one is the perfect length if you take the correct route, but the USB extension for the lower dash is not long enough, so I bought a USB A Male to Mini USB Female adapter from Amazon. This way you can leave the original plug in the dash and just connect the USB adaptor between the original grey plug from the old stereo and the lead coming from the hub.

Finally, I stripped back the 2 wires on the grey power plug at the back of the hub and soldered them to the 2 wires feeding the 12v socket next to it.
Wire connections as follows:
Blue/White on the media plug - Black/white on the 12v socket feed.
Blue/Yellow on the media plug - Purple/orange on the 12v socket feed.
DO NOT GET THESE THE WRONG WAY ROUND OR YOU MAY FRY YOUR PHONE!!!

So, to summarise, here are the Ford part numbers I used:-

Head unit - LK2T-18D804-HH
Screen - L1BT-18B955-FB
Fiesta Loom - H1BT-14B079-SC
USB Media Hub - HS7T-14F014-AC

From what I can tell, only the 6 digits in the middle of the part numbers are important - the other 2 blocks vary from model to model.

Anyway, I hope this helps somebody to do this conversion, and maybe the mods could make it a sticky?

[lchris21]

Thanks for the reply to my original post. I'll start the parts accumulation !

[martiboy]

Thanks for the excellent how to. Just 3 questions. Does the head unit require a code like the older radios if you unplugged the battery. Does it still give the little display for all the parking sensors and does it need any coding with forscan. Thanks.

[mafty]

Thanks for the excellent how to. Just 3 questions. Does the head unit require a code like the older radios if you unplugged the battery. Does it still give the little display for all the parking sensors and does it need any coding with forscan. Thanks.

No, it plugs straight in and works fine.
However, you won’t be able to charge a phone or get Apple CarPlay without changing the USB hub as described. The phone will just say Charging, then cut off, then repeat.

The park sensors show fine, but if you want to add a reversing camera it will have to be coded using Forscan.
I have just fitted an aftermarket camera myself and it works beautifully, with the original park pilot showing in the top right corner of the screen.

Hope this helps.

[CustomKeeney]

This is an extremely helpful thread, and I thank you for taking the time to write it as I also have been looking for an answer to this question. I'm just curious, do you have to change out the apim? Or is that just for sync 3 versions?

[CustomKeeney]

Great how to, I'm going to attempt this myself soon. I just have a few questions. Did you have to do anything with the APIM, as in install one or was there one on yours initially. And secondly is the usb cable you got on amazon usb to usb c or the old firmware type usb.
Thanks for taking you time to post as like you said, there is very little information on this anywhere.

[CustomKeeney]

"Finally, I stripped back the 2 wires on the grey power plug at the back of the hub and soldered them to the 2 wires feeding the 12v socket next to it.
Wire connections as follows:
Blue/White on the media plug - Black/white on the 12v socket feed.
Blue/Yellow on the media plug - Purple/orange on the 12v socket feed.
Hi, this is a great how to.. and has been a great help to me in trying to upgrade to the 8". I would just like to clarify that the usb extension goes to the lower usb hub? And that the soldering to the same one? And also which hub am I to swap with the one that comes with the fiesta loom? I appreciate any help you can give, and thanks for the original post as info is near impossible to find.

[mafty]

Hi, this is a great how to.. and has been a great help to me in trying to upgrade to the 8". I would just like to clarify that the usb extension goes to the lower usb hub? And that the soldering to the same one? And also which hub am I to swap with the one that comes with the fiesta loom? I appreciate any help you can give, and thanks for the original post as info is near impossible to find.

Yes, the USB adapter connects from the Fiesta loom to the existing Transit one which goes to the lower USB port. (the fiesta loom only just reaches from the top usb port to just behind the screen)

The hub you are swapping is the one in the top pocket in front of the driver. This is the one that has the 12v socket next to it. You will need to get the hub and faceplate with the fiesta loom ideally as the loom will not fit the standard transit faceplate.
Hope this makes sense.

[mafty]

Great how to, I'm going to attempt this myself soon. I just have a few questions. Did you have to do anything with the APIM, as in install one or was there one on yours initially. And secondly is the usb cable you got on amazon usb to usb c or the old firmware type usb.
Thanks for taking you time to post as like you said, there is very little information on this anywhere.

Didn't have to do anything with the APIM. All I changed was the head unit, screen and loom/media faceplate.
The adapter is a female mini usb to male usb.(not usb c - just standard usb)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07NSMK77X? ... ct_details

[CustomKeeney]

Thanks so much to all on this forum. The help and advice was extremely useful.

[mafty]

Thanks so much to all on this forum. The help and advice was extremely useful.

Let us know if you manage to complete the swap successfully.

[Chris 19]

Thanks so much to all on this forum. The help and advice was extremely useful.

Let us know if you manage to complete the swap successfully.

Great write up mate been looking for something like this for ages. I have a question though I have a trend model so no apim does the sat nav work on it am guess would just need to add gps antenna?

[mafty]

Thanks so much to all on this forum. The help and advice was extremely useful.

Let us know if you manage to complete the swap successfully.

Great write up mate been looking for something like this for ages. I have a question though I have a trend model so no apim does the sat nav work on it am guess would just need to add gps antenna?

SYNC 2.5 doesn't have built in Sat Nav, but most people just use the Nav on their phones via CarPlay.

[martiboy]

I followed the how to by Maffy. I bought everything with the same part numbers and can confirm it works. I don't have carplay but android auto works just fine. All parts are from different vehicles. The only thing that I haven't got working yet is the usb beside the hazard switch. This could be because I plugged into the wrong connector or the adapter doesn't work. I've got the main 1 working so the other can wait for another day.

[mafty]

I followed the how to by Maffy. I bought everything with the same part numbers and can confirm it works. I don't have carplay but android auto works just fine. All parts are from different vehicles. The only thing that I haven't got working yet is the usb beside the hazard switch. This could be because I plugged into the wrong connector or the adapter doesn't work. I've got the main 1 working so the other can wait for another day.

If the top one is working, the only cable left to connect behind the screen should be the lower usb port. IIRC it is the grey usb mini plug. If you have that connected and it still doesn’t work, it could be a faulty adaptor. I wrapped some tape around mine to keep the cables from pulling out of the adaptor, as I seem to remember there not being much slack on the cables.
It could just be that one of the cables pulled out as you were putting it all back together.
CarPlay works on both ports, so I’d imagine Android Auto should do the same.

Hope this helps, and glad my instructions were useful to you.