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2017 custom alternator & fuel pump

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2017 custom alternator & fuel pump

Postby andunp » Mon Feb 24, 2025 3:23 pm

we have a 2017 custom that was going through the electric fuel pumps every 3 weeks - we traced this to an aftermarket alternator!!!!

Alternator was changed for a genuine one and an has run for 10 months no issues, until recently where the fuel pump and moduel failed - we checked the alternater and it was chariging ok but was red hot to the touch! genuine new alternator fitted along with genuine pump & model - vehicle has ran for 2 weeks then gone into limp moe for fuel pump & alternator is red hot again

anyone seen this before?
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Re: 2017 custom alternator & fuel pump

Postby metalworker0 » Mon Feb 24, 2025 5:15 pm

Think you should be doing a parasitic drain test, this is to find an electrical leak.

But first just go over the van, look for rodent damage to wires and pay attention to wiring that goes from alternator to starter motor look at connections there.

Then test your battery / batteries ..sometimes a buggered battery will create as high drain

At this stage you ask yourself - are you confident about performing the parasitic test set up, that i'm about to explain, or not and are you maybe better to pay an auto electrician to perform this test,

THE PARASITIC TEST -

this test may create more fault codes - so you need forscan to put it right afterwards

NOTE: and use forscan to get correct fault codes with proper explanation of them - your generic fault code reader may be somewhat misleading

Here on this site - They recommend "Forscan" which is FREE software that you download to a laptop..you buy the interface cable
You must join the forscan forum ..again free, to get the software and more answers.

https://forscan.org/forum/

On to the the test

Done by taking live terminal off battery ..and putting multimeter set at amps between live terminal on battery and the cable you've just taken off, to make an alternator hot this will be quite high amps so a cheap multimeter just will not do it.

Well that's how you would do it old school, what with you having a modern vehicle that you can actually bugger modules etc up for good, says you have to be very careful and know what you are doing.
Plus it has this smart charging, i think, that's an extra complication, and stop start another extra complication.

ONCE multimeter connected - Start pulling fuses until it stops the high amp drain (that's what i suspect) ....if that does not happen you then start pulling relays, no results you then go onto the same test with engine running.n as the condition may only exist with it running.

The fuse numbers relays and their functions can be found in the owners hand book.

all the best.mark
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