The special tool is a plate and spindle that fits in place of the drive shaft on your 2.0 or the stub shaft on the rwd's
in reality it's a pain in the @rse to use and very often causes damage to the threads of the hub bearing carrier.
The easy way involves 2 long bolts with 19mm heads and 2 nuts to use on the bolts.
intrigued.........read on
undo the 5 torx 50 bolts holding the bearing onto the caliper
Get the pads out of the caliper and then undo the 2 bolts which hold the caliper onto the bridge, they have 18mm heads.
with the caliper supported to the side, push one of the long bolts through the hole where the caliper was mounted, now on the other side of the bracket hold the nut and thread the bolt through it.
do the same with the other long bolt and nut.
place one of the old pads against the disc and wind the long bolts through the nuts until the bolts make contact with the pad. holding the nuts with a spanner, tighten the bolts up evenly!!!!
before long the pressure from the bolts will begin to push the bearing unit out of the hub carrier, be aware that you'll need to give the drive shaft a wee tap every so often to prevent it from being pulled away with the hub. don't damage the threads though!!!
Once it's free of the carrier the hub will be unsupported and could fall on you!
Before you build it up, clean up the carrier and the bearing and apply a thin coating of copperslip to the faces.
if you start all 5 of the Torx 50 bolts up before tightening any of them fully, you can pull the bearing back in place with ease.
Hope that helps
BTW, the torque for the big nut on the shaft is 430Nm, if it's not torqued up enough the bearings aren't preloaded and will last about 6 months.
the torx bolts were 69Nm from memory and the caliper bolts around the 175Nm (i think.......make sure they are tight!)
