
Moderator: Luke
baconsdozen wrote:By placing a shim under the top cap it stops the assembly dropping down and takes up some of the movement present because of wear in the thrust bearing.If the wear is slight and the thrust bearing is still serviceable it is still a bodge but a workable one.
To drive out the king pin from the axle (where it often seizes on) you need a drift that is flat and almost the same size as the king pin or the end will spread making it impossible to shift. Ideally you need a large press,but using a really substantial block,a heavy hammer and large drift they can be got out,heating the axle end (within reason) will help.Use the block directly under where you are hammering so you are supporting the assembly and not trying to bend anything.
If you do use heat,a drop of water put on a component that forms a ball that runs about rapidly on the surface as it evaporates shows the metal is hot enough to expand about as much as it will and avoids damage by overheating it.
I've got one of these to do in a week or so,I'll try and remember to take some pics.
davev6newman wrote:baconsdozen wrote:By placing a shim under the top cap it stops the assembly dropping down and takes up some of the movement present because of wear in the thrust bearing.If the wear is slight and the thrust bearing is still serviceable it is still a bodge but a workable one.
To drive out the king pin from the axle (where it often seizes on) you need a drift that is flat and almost the same size as the king pin or the end will spread making it impossible to shift. Ideally you need a large press,but using a really substantial block,a heavy hammer and large drift they can be got out,heating the axle end (within reason) will help.Use the block directly under where you are hammering so you are supporting the assembly and not trying to bend anything.
If you do use heat,a drop of water put on a component that forms a ball that runs about rapidly on the surface as it evaporates shows the metal is hot enough to expand about as much as it will and avoids damage by overheating it.
I've got one of these to do in a week or so,I'll try and remember to take some pics.
But your still saying to take the pin out? i need a quick fix without taking pin out to get mot.
Muttley wrote:Righto, get shims, cut out width of kingpin in shim, slide into gap at the top of the swivel. Shim up till u have no lift, get MOT dont leave it like that cos the thrust is collapsing, thats why you have lift
bambi mk 1 wrote:Yes Muttley they will drive without bearings and a lot of other things been there done that but unfortunatly in the so called world we live in today if something were to happen and the men with the wigs get us it will be a different story, could even be a life story
baconsdozen wrote:As far as I know bodges come in two versions.
One...........The S.S. Safe and sound,a way of getting a bit more life out of a worn component or a 'different way of repairing. Some of the SS variety are so good that they end up as revisions in handbooks and workshop manuals.
Two...........The D. D Dangerously dodgy. In this category come grinding brake pipes to make them look shiny,making crap welding look good with an icing pipette and filler and pumping filler in a grease nipple to lake up slack,repairing chassic sections with fibreglass and filler etc etc.In fact thinking about it filler is involved in 90% or more of D.D. Bodges.
If the thrusts are only slightly worn,fitting shims to reduce the lift is (in my opinion) in the S S category. However if they are badly worn (and they can't really be inspected to see if they are breaking up in situ) it's going towards D D. But The only 100% proper way is to take the pins out and replace the bearings.
Muttley wrote:Oh I wish there could be a return to "common sense" short cut was what Dave wanted, short cuts is what he got. I hope he has some of the aforementioned and knows what to do for the best and safest![]()
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