2.4 timing chain set up

[RLHaulage]

hi all,ive seen as few vids of how to do this,is there anything i need to know before i start,i am going to take the timing cover off to check that the timing has jumped a tooth or more ,any instructional vids will be a great help,thanks guys

[myceliumu3]

I agree with checking timing!!
Have searched Mk6/7 forum entered 2.4 timing chain and got post by jubilee entitled Re Correct Timing Chain Tensioner with a link to post by Guy88 with ex rac VO51 DXP with good photos. Front of van stripped and shows timing chain cover off and chain in situe. Tensioner on left about 8pm. You can see improvised bolt locking pins on the crank and the cams and diesel pump .You can see the right cam only has a few teeth of the chain running over it hence the problem. Bolt the crank and the left cam should be on the timing bolt holes ( beware that you are not 180 degrees out ), and so should the right cam and injection pump? If not investigate. Check for pistons hitting valves,( hope not could mean replacement head), you said your van started but smoked so you may have been lucky? Follow photos and advice given. Replace tensioner chain and guides and check oil seal on front cover. Dont try to start with front cover off as there will be oil everywhere
Hope this helps
Regards
Charles
I only go to the garage for mot

[karl]

if piston a valve contact you will have broken rocker guides take the rocker cover of and check them first


as for timing these if you have never done one before let someone else do it for, you have to have slack in the chain undo bolts let tensionar go then tighten bolts etc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIz5vpYp7Yw

this is a 2.4

one had oil pump fail one

[RLHaulage]

2.4 115ps rwd jumbo 57 plate
ok heres the awaited up date,total failure of the tensioner,and i think the last guy to rebuild my engine might have put in an incorrect chain as it had no markings on it and the tensioner was all the way out like 25/30mm instead of just a couple,this engine was rebuilt 25000 miles ago when it should have had all new timing guides/chain and tensioner,the chain jumped on the inlet side and smashed 6 of the rockers off ,this was on the starter after a frosty night,so all new kit,

i now have all the timing gear on and pulled the pin,turned by hand at first all good,spun it with the key(this is without injectors fitted and the cover still off for inspection)good puff 0f compression from the injector holes so without the pistons hitting the valves im almost ready to seal it all up,but i dropped a guide bolt into the sump so until i have that out its all stop,im hoping to poke a magnet tool into the sump hole and have a good root about ,im dreading having to drop the sump,now in this vid the camshaft timing marks are at 12 oclock mine are slightly off to the left,so when lining up the crank i went for the 3rd tooth across instead of 2 1/2,will this be right? as everything else is slightly over to the left,this with the 6mm bits in place,although on mine there is nowhere for the bit to go on the pump,but this lines up with the black marks on the chain
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIz5vpYp ... re=mh_lolz

without nowing where the pump lines up on the old chain is it possible it wasnt lined up correctly which was causing my lack of power?
it would easily pull a ton,now im lucky to get it to 80,or was,im hoping it was the cause and ill now have a full power 115 again

[angeleye]

being a mk7 im taking its a tdci ..if so fuel pump dosnt need to line up as its just a high pressure pump....did you pin the flywheel,as well as camshafts....did you undo camshaft and pump bolts before you let the tentioner pin go,and was the camshaft carrier cracked,and did you use new carrier rocker bolts

[RLHaulage]

heres what i found when i opened the cover

shouldnt be like this ?

where its at now after its been turned over on the starter










so does it all look ok?

[RLHaulage]

being a mk7 im taking its a tdci ..if so fuel pump dosnt need to line up as its just a high pressure pump....did you pin the flywheel no,as well as camshafts....did you undo camshaft and pump bolts before you let the tentioner pin go, noand was the camshaft carrier cracked,thankfully noand did you use new carrier rocker bolts no

the rocker assembly was fooked so got another,not from ford at £325.00,but off another engine,8 new rockers and reused the exhaust side as they are fine

[angeleye]

looks ok didnt you line up the coloured links,and did you pin flywheel and have sprockets undone when releasing tentioner,,you would then fit remaining fixed guides,and tighten sprockets,remove pins and rotate engine two full turns in correct direction,then replace pins to see if they still line up,colured links would not line up at this stage,,and you did use new bolts as theyare stretch bolts and can snap if reused,
ok just re-read your answers,
you should of pinned flywheel,(you dont want to be 1 tooth out on relucter ring))( althou torq bolt on cranshaft looks quite close to where it should be) and had sprockets bolts loose,with no fixed guides in place,if you dont do this the correct tention will not be applied,i would do it again to be safe,and you should use a new crankshaft sensor to get correct air gap

[RLHaulage]

apart from the top 2 pics,they were taken after the engine had been spun over on the key,and they still lined up,yes i did line it all up with the black links on the chain originally

[RLHaulage]

i lined up all the marks as per the vid,but as my markings are slightly left of the ones in the vid,i opted for the 3rd tooth over instead of 2,5 over

[RLHaulage]

when all lined up ,the front nearest piston is almost at tdc,is this correct ?

[karl]

when all lined up ,the front nearest piston is almost at tdc,is this correct ?

Yes

[angeleye]

not sure what you mean by 2.5..3 teeth ,you line the coloured links up with the dots on cams and pin flywheel,in correct reluctering slot,which then gives the correct timing at 50 degrees btdc which at a guess would put piston 24mm down bore (is a guess if its a 88mm stroke)seeing as you had a jumped chain,and didnt actually no where the crank should be,dont you think its wise to find correct relucter ring slot,
having said that it does look good,but dosnt distract from the fact it could be 1 tooth out on relucter ring and you didnt have bolts loose when letting tentioner go,
as a rough check the torq bolt on end of crank would be tdc when bolt is at 12,oclock...and each tooth would be ten decrees(36t crank sprocket),
dont you think its wise while its stripped down to do a recheck,
it also says on the video to pin the flywheel,thru the crank sensor hole
when you let tentioner go with bolts loose you will see cam sprockets move in opposite directions to tention chain

see what you mean about 2.5/3 t, this will show up as the mk7 has a different blade and tentioner than the mk6,if you have a look the mk7 tentioner is lower down than the mk6,also has a different tentioner,,
wouldnt need to bother about this if you pin flywheel

[RLHaulage]

thanks for the info,1st timer here,i was reluctant to remove the crank sensor as ive heard they can break off,dont need more work,i still have a bolt in the sump to get out,but ill get the sensor out and check alignment ,more for peace of mind as im 90% certain ive got it right,thanks again

[angeleye]

sensible thing to do while its stripped down,could well be right and does look good,sensor sometimes gets caught as its plastic coated and drags on the bracket,just try taking it out as square as possible,when you put the new one back just drop it on top off one of the relucter ring teeth,it will then shave the pip off to give it the correct air gap,,