loots mk7

[RustWidow]

It is amazing how we are able to quickly respond considering how busy our social lives are

Rofl loot, it's organisation really isn't it?

[loot]

Maybe or it could be that I'm sat here on my days off patiently waiting for posts
But please don't let that be true

Hey i didn't answer your window question, they fit in the gap and you put masking tape on the top edge to van to keep them there to go off, might be an idea to put a few matches on the bottom edge tho, might save the glass vibrating, can't remember lol i would have put the info further up in the thread?

[Tango330]

Do I remember you saying you tinted your windows Loot

Where was he kit from, and is it any good

[loot]

I did
Cheap limo crap off eBay
I use the airline to blow the back of the van clean and the highly propelled bits of dust have perforated the tint so now it's like the night sky
Plus 1 day shortly after I fitted the windows I was doing something I got angry and threw something at the inside of the van not remembering about the side window, heard a loud bang and brown trousered myself, luckily it bounced off the glass but did cut the tint a small amount
You probably didn't need to know this Lol
Anyway, I paid about 15 pounds I think and I got a little plastic scraper thing that you get with body filler (it scratches the tint)

I imagine most tints will be OK to use but make sure you get 1 that is at least a couple of inches wider than your glass.

You need a really really soft quality rubber squeegee not those plastic rubber things they rip the tint
Make a fairy liquid solution that is very dilute but you can just feel it between your fingers.
Cut the tint as closely as you can to your window size but a minimum of 2 inches all the way round larger.
Put the fairy solution in a squirty bottle and after thoroughly cleaning your window with window cleaning stuff, you need to squirt fairy solution on both sides of the tint (lots of, back and front) even when you start pulling the bit off to reveal the sticky side, soak it, it will want to curl up because static happens when you pull the piece off that you throw away so pull and squirt pull and squirt, the sticky won't stick to itself
Now squirt the glass and then apply the tint to the glass and locate it and fit it to the glass fully.

Squirt the face of the tint and then use the squeegee to remove the solution, keep applying and wiping for about 10 mins as if you are cleaning the window.

Work outwards to remove any bubbles, this is where you know if your solution is too fairy (bubbles won't go away) too watery and you would have had problems while installing.

At first my tint had crease bubbles that kept returning but if you give it some time and keep working it the film settles flat
Use the plastic thing to work the tint into the edges and once happy just use a blade to trim the excess away.
Keep the tint wet because the dry tint will scratch and may rip

That's not what you asked but I guess for the tint the more you pay the better.
Mine came in a tube
Oh and don't be rough and bend it, very hard not to but creases and slight stretches in the film will stay there
If you have someone to help hold 1 end while you pull the protective side away while squirting, that would help.
I have no friends so I pulled 1 side a bit then stuck the tint to my roof and I could pull the film away.
PS. Don't tint the glass then fit it
sh*t did I just write all that?

[Tango330]

I did
Cheap limo crap off eBay
I use the airline to blow the back of the van clean and the highly propelled bits of dust have perforated the tint so now it's like the night sky
Plus 1 day shortly after I fitted the windows I was doing something I got angry and threw something at the inside of the van not remembering about the side window, heard a loud bang and brown trousered myself, luckily it bounced off the glass but did cut the tint a small amount
You probably didn't need to know this Lol
Anyway, I paid about 15 pounds I think and I got a little plastic scraper thing that you get with body filler (it scratches the tint)

I imagine most tints will be OK to use but make sure you get 1 that is at least a couple of inches wider than your glass.

You need a really really soft quality rubber squeegee not those plastic rubber things they rip the tint
Make a fairy liquid solution that is very dilute but you can just feel it between your fingers.
Cut the tint as closely as you can to your window size but a minimum of 2 inches all the way round larger.
Put the fairy solution in a squirty bottle and after thoroughly cleaning your window with window cleaning stuff, you need to squirt fairy solution on both sides of the tint (lots of, back and front) even when you start pulling the bit off to reveal the sticky side, soak it, it will want to curl up because static happens when you pull the piece off that you throw away so pull and squirt pull and squirt, the sticky won't stick to itself
Now squirt the glass and then apply the tint to the glass and locate it and fit it to the glass fully.

Squirt the face of the tint and then use the squeegee to remove the solution, keep applying and wiping for about 10 mins as if you are cleaning the window.

Work outwards to remove any bubbles, this is where you know if your solution is too fairy (bubbles won't go away) too watery and you would have had problems while installing.

At first my tint had crease bubbles that kept returning but if you give it some time and keep working it the film settles flat
Use the plastic thing to work the tint into the edges and once happy just use a blade to trim the excess away.
Keep the tint wet because the dry tint will scratch and may rip

That's not what you asked but I guess for the tint the more you pay the better.
Mine came in a tube
Oh and don't be rough and bend it, very hard not to but creases and slight stretches in the film will stay there
If you have someone to help hold 1 end while you pull the protective side away while squirting, that would help.
I have no friends so I pulled 1 side a bit then stuck the tint to my roof and I could pull the film away.
PS. Don't tint the glass then fit it
sh*t did I just write all that?

Bl00dy awesome Mate

Sounds like a real mare though, might wait until I know I don't have to rush it. Rushed fitting both of my windows, and forgot to paint round the hole before I fitted the last one Still it's on and maybe it won't rust Yeah right

Defo fancy tinting though ,as they are a lot clearer than I thought ....

[loot]

If you buy a good length roll you'll be able to do a practice run, I fluffed 1 side window up prior to wetting the sticky side, ball of bloody tint Lol and I fluffed a back window using the supplied piece of plastic
Plus the back windows are curved believe it or not

Easy if you follow the above, opening windows would be an arse I think tho.

[paul2012]

My front door glass has ben professionally tinted.
They will be up for grabs once I've located a mk7 O/S front door.

[loot]

We're referring to the side windows Paul
And mine have been professionally done too thank you very much

I've got a mk7 ns door

[paul2012]

We're referring to the side windows Paul
And mine have been professionally done too thank you very much

I've got a mk7 ns door

Tinted front glass will go well with side side glass

I have a N/S door being dropped of to me on Tuesday. Now after O/S....

[loot]

Side glass is limo black, standard factory tint on the front glass but I'm not brave enough to go any more due to the feds that cruise around these parts.

[Tango330]

New gearbox and new clutch with dmf.
Word of the week......... Slag .........

So how bad is it actually getting the box out and back in Loot Mate

Did you have to drop the subframe

When I do mine I'll be doing it lying underneath which should be interesting, bl00dy Landrover box and transfer box nearly crippled me

[loot]

It's not bad i think i removed the rear bolts and loosened the front but it may be pointless if the wheels are on the floor
The box slides back nicely then will fall out, i had to catch it as it was up in the air
Remove the front exhaust rubber so the flexi let's you move the exhaust to the right to allow the box out, also bend the heat shield up and over the exhaust because it will get in your way when refitting the box (and piss you right off )
The front should be off the ground as much as possible because ideally the box will drop out vertically so the length of the box +

You will need to offer the bell housing up nearly vertical and over the sub frame where it will sit comfortably but you'll have to hold it there then lever the back of the box up and horizontal and forward.
If you have a jacking lift it will help you no end, but doing it on the floor i think you may want to think about removing the exhaust and heat shield etc.
I did mine up in the air tho and with you doing the lr you probably know what I've meant
Have fun mate.

[Tango330]

It's not bad i think i removed the rear bolts and loosened the front but it may be pointless if the wheels are on the floor
The box slides back nicely then will fall out, i had to catch it as it was up in the air
Remove the front exhaust rubber so the flexi let's you move the exhaust to the right to allow the box out, also bend the heat shield up and over the exhaust because it will get in your way when refitting the box (and piss you right off )
The front should be off the ground as much as possible because ideally the box will drop out vertically so the length of the box +

You will need to offer the bell housing up nearly vertical and over the sub frame where it will sit comfortably but you'll have to hold it there then lever the back of the box up and horizontal and forward.
If you have a jacking lift it will help you no end, but doing it on the floor i think you may want to think about removing the exhaust and heat shield etc.
I did mine up in the air tho and with you doing the lr you probably know what I've meant
Have fun mate.

Thanks Mate, doesn't sound too bad. Won't be doing it till autumn, but just wanted a heads up on how tricky it would be.

Can probably get it high enough at front to do the job, had the landrover up on blocks and ramps

I'll be cutting and pasting your post into a word document to refer to as my instructions

Thanks again

PS haven't actually got the box yet anyway

[Tango330]

Took the cling film off my gearbox today to find this

Gearbox bracket 1.jpg

Gearbox bracket 2.jpg

Presume this needs replacing if I can find a part number

[loot]

Looking at my gearbox on the last page I'd say that the bit missing has the cable holders on?
Didn't they know that they can unclip them?