Central Locking

[VCPro]

when I bought my mk6 the guy was having the same problem with it locking its self,i simply unlock the door twice and it stops it,if I only unlock the drivers door the once it goes into auto locking again? so id say try unlocking it twice and see if that stops it.

[MikeHamling]

So I've just got home and tried this and basically if I hit the unlock button twice and totally ignore the blue button I'm it stays unlocked without bouncing locked again and I can get in the side door. So I can live with that.

Now if I can get around the risk of locking my keys inside when I lock the back door I'll be really happy!

[MikeHamling]

+1 don't pull the panelling out until we check the basics.

It makes sense that yours lock and unlock since you have prevision for a locking barrel, on my mk7 i don't and that's probably why, plus i have bcm control.

So we need to discount the ajar switches i think, your scenario suggests that in any state, 1 of the ajar switches is in the wrong position (although they seem to work either closed or open)

Does the mk6 also have the side door pin switch?

(Just for my reference at the mo)

Ok so the osr door loom is a known failing point which the wires break inside, but there's only 2 motors and a contact switch.
(Thinking aloud)

Having thought about this, i need Als help
If all doors are locked by remote that works yes?
If all doors are unlocked that works yes?
If all doors are unlocked and then you jump in the back with side door open then they should lock then unlock because the side door is open yes?
If they all lock except the side door which is open then are they supposed to bounce open? If it can lock then you jump out of the van and shut the door and it locks then i have 2 problems with that, 1 is that it should bounce all the locks open if the side door is open anyway and 2 shouldn't the locking logic be momentary ie. You lock the door and it signals to lick the van but not permanently. But when you shut the side door it gets the signal to lock which is the state the other doors are in.

This suggests a short somewhere??

It's actually a fairly simple setup tbh so it seems that yours is going against the grain

Can the mk6 chaps say whether i have it correct above, with the side door open can you lock the back door inside and what should happen?.

As far as I hnderstand all of your scenarios above are true and the one that is the issue is when I go to leave the van, I have to lock the back door from the inside then jump out and shut the side door and very door locks. If my keys are in it I'm screwed.

[loot]

OK so why can't you leave the back door unlocked and jump out and shut the side door?
If you want to lock the van up surely you'd just jump out with the keys then lock it and away you go?
I don't understand

[MikeHamling]

OK so why can't you leave the back door unlocked and jump out and shut the side door?
If you want to lock the van up surely you'd just jump out with the keys then lock it and away you go?
I don't understand

The back door doesn't lock unless you lock it from the inside I'm afraid.

[loot]

Ah no remote locking on the back door actuator.
OK so does it unlock from the remote or is it dead?

[MikeHamling]

Ah no remote locking on the back door actuator.
OK so does it unlock from the remote or is it dead?

It's dead

[Altransit]

Don't know if this helps, but if I open my back door and hit the lock button on the fob, the whole van locks and immediately unlocks

[loot]

Thanks Al

Since the rear locking actuator Is dead you need to check if it is a broken wire through the door loom or the actuator is broken, the common denominator for it to not lock, not deadlock, not open is the earth wire since the other 3 are live and from separate relays (from what i can see.)

Negative is pin 10 on the actuator, it is listed as black/green on my mk7 diagram which may be different than the mk6 but i think all the driver lock wires are all black on the mk7 despite the diagram giving the colours
But pin 10 should be the same still, you can put a meter from the wiring side and the other probe to ground to check if it is closed circuit since it is a permanent ground, that'll tell you that it works, you can probably add ground to the actuator if you want to see if it comes to life.

Either way, that is what you need to sort out i think and i think that the system is working apart from the problem at the rear lock.

[Frag]

So worst case scenario,theres a wiring fault behind camper conversion in rear of van (front to rear loom) or locking module has failed internally on rear door circuit,

More likely to me,loom through door joint (plugs in behind O/S rear lamp,check this connecter for corrosion) to latch has a broken wire,or latch itself has failed but 'ajar' switch inside is working,have seen a few latches fail.

Regardless of your locking faults,if you have a working lock barrel in drivers door;(or even with a fully working system)
Consider cutting a spare non-PATS/immobiliser key to fit,hide it under van,that way if you do lock your keys in you will be able to unlock van to retrieve them.
Alternatively,hide a coded PATS key incase you lose keys completely while away from home.
There are plenty of places to securely hide a key away under the van while still being able to access it

[MikeHamling]

Thanks for all your time and advice gents, I really appreciate it. I only joined the forum yesterday and you've all been legends so far. I doubt I'll get chance this weekend as we're off for a bit of cold camping in the van at Corfe Castle and with the darker evenings, it may be a while before I get to look at it but I'll report back. Testing the actuator is probably on the limits of my electrical knowledge but will give it a go and report back

Thanks again

[MikeHamling]

Thanks Al

Since the rear locking actuator Is dead you need to check if it is a broken wire through the door loom or the actuator is broken, the common denominator for it to not lock, not deadlock, not open is the earth wire since the other 3 are live and from separate relays (from what i can see.)

Negative is pin 10 on the actuator, it is listed as black/green on my mk7 diagram which may be different than the mk6 but i think all the driver lock wires are all black on the mk7 despite the diagram giving the colours
But pin 10 should be the same still, you can put a meter from the wiring side and the other probe to ground to check if it is closed circuit since it is a permanent ground, that'll tell you that it works, you can probably add ground to the actuator if you want to see if it comes to life.

Either way, that is what you need to sort out i think and i think that the system is working apart from the problem at the rear lock.

Hi there

I know this is an old thread but the van ended up being store for 5 mths since i posted this and I have only just got it back for the season.

I have tried all of the above and can find no obvious damage however I have discovered that the solid yellow wire has no power in any circumstances whereas all the others do. This is true even when I test the loom behind the o/s rear light. My Haynes diagram tells me this is power but also black/yellow is power.

Confused as hell but could this be the problem with my central locking?

20160402_124422.jpg

[loot]

Quick test, find pin 6 and pin 8 and bridge them then try locking the doors, the rest should stay locked.

Pins should be numbered on 1 of the connectors

[MikeHamling]

Quick test, find pin 6 and pin 8 and bridge them then try locking the doors, the rest should stay locked.

Pins should be numbered on 1 of the connectors

Frustratingly only numbered on one of the connectors behind light but no pin 8. The black connector in the door has no numbers

20160402_132737.jpg

20160402_132753.jpg

Thanks Al

Since the rear locking actuator Is dead you need to check if it is a broken wire through the door loom or the actuator is broken, the common denominator for it to not lock, not deadlock, not open is the earth wire since the other 3 are live and from separate relays (from what i can see.)

Negative is pin 10 on the actuator, it is listed as black/green on my mk7 diagram which may be different than the mk6 but i think all the driver lock wires are all black on the mk7 despite the diagram giving the colours
But pin 10 should be the same still, you can put a meter from the wiring side and the other probe to ground to check if it is closed circuit since it is a permanent ground, that'll tell you that it works, you can probably add ground to the actuator if you want to see if it comes to life.

Either way, that is what you need to sort out i think and i think that the system is working apart from the problem at the rear lock.

Hi there

I know this is an old thread but the van ended up being store for 5 mths since i posted this and I have only just got it back for the season.

I have tried all of the above and can find no obvious damage however I have discovered that the solid yellow wire has no power in any circumstances whereas all the others do. This is true even when I test the loom behind the o/s rear light. My Haynes diagram tells me this is power but also black/yellow is power.

Confused as hell but could this be the problem with my central locking?

20160402_124422.jpg

[MikeHamling]

Quick test, find pin 6 and pin 8 and bridge them then try locking the doors, the rest should stay locked.

Pins should be numbered on 1 of the connectors

Ignore my idiocy of the last post. They are numbered, I just did a "man look" as my wife called it. When I did a "woman look" I found the numbers, bridged 6 & 8 and all the other doors stay locked as you say