100ps lucas running slow still

[powercrazymark]

Van is a 190 extended frame recovery truck 100ps 2.5 di on a late 97
so been running this van for a year now and still seems to stop on hills down to 20 mph on some. So it has a dsa 1096 fuel pump and 32142 rsn injectors ( which I now believe to be the correct ones fitted to all after 97)
I thought I had the wrong injectors so swapped them for blue spot 33408. Seemed to have more power and more smoke and boosted to just under 1.5 bar ( I had the turbo turned up on the old injectors because boost seemed low). So I thought all running great apart from the odd overboost which put the eml on. Fuel consumption was terrible couldn't keep the van in fuel and shortly realised that even with these injectors loaded up a hill was better but still terrible. Put the old injectors back in and smoke stopped and boost dropped back to a max of 1 bar. Checked fault codes with forscan got loads and cleared them. Then p1190 calibration resistor came up, p1256 pedal correlation pds1 and hdps, p1257 pedal correlation pds2 and hdps and p0400 egr. Swapped plug on harness that goes into pump and cleaned pump pins, and p1190 has now cleared. Tried a different pedal and pedal codes stay in. On live data the 2 pedal tracks seem to be working just fine, calibration resistor is reading 0 all the time and the cylinder balance on 3 at idle is 14 all other cylinders read 0. Boost gauge fitted and at 2500 its about 0.5 bar. hits 1 bar roughly between 2900 and 3500 but this varies as I am driving. This van isn't as responsive as my 120 I know the 190 is obviously heavier but not that much when unloaded I would think it having a turbo would make up for it. Any ideas

[powercrazymark]

Anyone??

[powercrazymark]

So update I've now checked the resistance of the calibration resistor on the fuel pump and its showing open circuit. So the calibration resistor must be faulty even though the code has cleared. I've got 2 spare pumps that I am going to get tomorrow and test the calibration resistor on them and see what they come back as. Also anyone know how to compression check these engines

[MinorMatt]

Well the calibration resistor definately shouldn't be open circuit... its the pims with the white surrounds

[powercrazymark]

Just checked 1 spare pump and its 1620 ohms.
Matt would this cause the problems I am having?
The spare I have is a 1191 will this work on my van that is currently fitted with a 1096?

[MinorMatt]

The calibration resistor is to tell the ECU how the pump is calibrated... there are 16 different resistances ranging from 95 to 9090 ohms so yours is somewhere in the middle.

There is a good chance that this will be causing your issues. I must admit I was considering fitting a variable resister across the wires in one of my vans to see what difference it makes....

But a straight pump swap will work fine. There are no compatability numbers between the 2. I would be inclined to put a resistor in first though. The calibration resistor is behind the 2 pins with a white background

[powercrazymark]

Excellent matt are they hard to change and where can I get one from?

[MinorMatt]

I have never tried removing one tbh - but it looks like there is a small gap to get a screwdriver in and lever it out - or just solder a resistor across the relevant wires next to the plug? Certainly quicker/easier than swapping the pump and it rules it out. I would use the value for your DSA1191 pump

[powercrazymark]

Excellent ill try that and see how it goes. I am also going to plug spare pump in and see if the pedal fault codes clear and also if it brings any other codes up so I know if it is a good pump just incase I do need it. Will keep this updated.

[powercrazymark]

Update I went to put a resistor in the back of the pump plug (pump side not harness side) and where the wires come out to go to the pump there are no wires for the resistor not even the holes just plastic where the holes should be which I think is strange. So I've de pinned the resistor wires on the harness side and bridged them with a 2k resistor, now getting calibration resistor value of 6. Van seems better boosts a little earlier now seems to rev higher easier but still not quite right I think. So I've ordered a 10k variable resistor which I will wire in and have a mess with. This may be a way of "mapping" as such one of these as I imagine that i will be able to turn it up for power and down for fuel efficiency but I'll test it first. I image what I am doing here is compensating for a worn fuel pump. Also I plugged in my spare pumps both dont give any extra fault codes and both give values for calibration resistor and both are 1191. Will keep this updated

[MinorMatt]

I've never seen one without the resistor before...

That is one of the things I have considered doing to boost performance - but have never got around to doing it...

[powercrazymark]

Well resistor will turn up at weekend and I'll put it in next week and let you know how it goes. Matt any ides on the pedal problem?

[MinorMatt]

the HDPS is the little microswitch - if that's shorted or faulty it could be causing the code

does it run fairly normally now?

[powercrazymark]

It seems better but I still think it could be better so I'll play with variable resistor and see what I can get. I've got spare pedal which I've tested all tracks and hdps and ldps switches and all working fine yet when I plug it in and clear the codes the 2 just stay on aswell as egr p0400 code. Can't get the pedal codes to clear at all on either the pedal in the van or the spare.

[powercrazymark]

Right so heres an update.
I've had a good mess about with the variable resistors I've tried a 10k but it was too hard to get the value I needed without the diag computer plugged in and when it was set at 100ohms for number 15 it was too sensitive and kept moving and putting it between settings thus dropping the setting to 0 and giving calibration resistor code. Then fitted a 2k resistor and the band for 15 is much easier to get and not as sensitive as the 10k. Ive since ordered a 10 turn 2k resistor for precision as it has a turn counter and degree angle gauge. Also with a variable resistor fitted its not a case of turning it up or down when driving, in order to change the setting you need to change to the desired resistance switch the ignition off and then back on. So the ecu measures the resistor when first switched on and thats value for that ignition cycle even if you change resistance. So any way van seems beter with this set at number 15 it is definitely faster and smoother, however I am still not convinced that I am getting 100% out of it. It will now hit over 1 bar of boost but over 3000rpm boost does come in a little sooner now and stronger yet still when it comes to a hill it still slows down not as much now but I need to see the hill coming and floor it. When going up a hill I can see boost slowly dropping from over 1 bar the speed and the revs dropping also.
Could the pedal codes be to blame for this?