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Changing rear brake cylinders

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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Sat Sep 26, 2020 6:04 pm

Pretty sure cylinders are right. Same in size and bore as ones that came out.
Just done the ‘press the pedal’, ‘let go’ exercise again maybe 20 times each side with engine running. Some resistance but shoes don’t go anywhere.
Can’t figure it out???
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Soren » Sun Sep 27, 2020 8:28 am

Hi
Do you have an load valve, that can do the trouble ?
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Sun Sep 27, 2020 11:50 am

This is the t join for the rear brake lines located at the rear axle. There is no loading spring so I’m assuming I don’t have a Load Valve.

I have no skill set, but here is my thought.

I have successfully replaced new cylinders. I then stuffed up bleeding them by allowing air is the lines as a let the brake pedal lift. Its possible I may also have stuffed the master cylinder by over pumping the pedal.

Can anyone answer me these qs?

What is causing bubbling in the reservoir on brake pumps? -see pic
Is the Servo affecting anything? Should I be bleeding with engine on/ off?
How much fluid should bleed out Of the rear nipples on a successful pedal.
Could there be a blockage? And whattyado then?
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Soren » Sun Sep 27, 2020 12:04 pm

Hi
On mine there was an leak , out back into the vacuum resuare
Søren
Transit MK 1 1977 Essex V4 2,0 Autocamper
Volvo V70 D5 2003
Harris Magnum 2 GPZ 1100 1984
Kawasaki GPZ 1000RX 1988
Yamaha DT 175 1994
Aberdeen Angus cattle approx 35
MF 135 1973
David Brown / Case 1390 1982
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Neil » Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:15 am

Fred- Mk1 camper wrote:Pretty sure cylinders are right. Same in size and bore as ones that came out.
Just done the ‘press the pedal’, ‘let go’ exercise again maybe 20 times each side with engine running. Some resistance but shoes don’t go anywhere.
Can’t figure it out???

dont need engine running , looks like you have air in the system
Neil v6
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Mon Sep 28, 2020 3:02 pm

Ok. Why’s the best way to remove all the air?
Cheers
Henry
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby DougT » Mon Sep 28, 2020 5:57 pm

If I am doing it on my own, I use a lump of wood to hold the brake pedal down. As Neil said, you do not need the engine running.

So find a suitable length of wood, or a trolley jack handle is sometimes the right length, push the pedal down with the lump of wood and jam it in the depressed position with the other end against the seat base. Do not let the pedal come up. Then open the bleed valve on the brake cylinder which is the farthest from the master cylinder, let the brake fluid out and nip the bleed valve shut.

Let the pedal up and then repeat the process.

Repeat and repeat until no air comes out, tighten the bleed valve correctly and move to the next farthest brake cylinder until you have done all of them. It is a slow method but not as slow as you might think as the brake lines are small in diameter. I reckon 4-6 bleeds on each cylinder are enough to do it.

Once you start to get pressure in the system the pedal will no longer go to the floor and so you may need a shorter lump of wood.

That is just my method, so see what other ideas there are.

Doug
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby dumper » Tue Sep 29, 2020 6:31 am

I use a Gunson pressure bleeder you run it off the air in the spare Tyre one man job and as it fills the master cylinder up as you go
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... 0rTWcLKvHB
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Tue Sep 29, 2020 8:03 pm

Good News - I’ve bled them - front and back- and ejected all bubbles. I’ve driven around the Close like It’s my driving test- carefully with frequent emergency stops and my brakes are good.
I couldn’t have done it without all your input.
The issues only makes sense when you’ve solved them.
I must have put a shed load of air in the system initially pumping without closing the bleed valves.
Anyway I’ll celebrate with a trip to B&Q on Saturday.
Thanks to all!
Henry
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Pablo-pilot » Thu Feb 25, 2021 4:52 pm

Hello! New brakes are a good thing. However, I would advise you to attach the cylinders not to the locking ring, but not to be lazy and cut threads into them and put them on bolts!
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Pablo-pilot » Thu Feb 25, 2021 4:54 pm

Otherwise, it can happen like this!
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby dumper » Thu Feb 25, 2021 5:11 pm

Pablo-pilot wrote:Hello! New brakes are a good thing. However, I would advise you to attach the cylinders not to the locking ring, but not to be lazy and cut threads into them and put them on bolts!

The clip can be a bit fiddly bolt on better but I wouldn’t go to that extreme.lost count of how many I fitted over the life of mk 1&2 s
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
dumper
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Ralph.9 » Fri Feb 26, 2021 7:53 am

That back plate is in the wrong orientation, the cylinder should be at the top & the cable enter from the front.
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby dumper » Sat Feb 27, 2021 9:19 am

Ralph.9 wrote:That back plate is in the wrong orientation, the cylinder should be at the top & the cable enter from the front.

Looking at the photo it looks like it’s not been off in a very long time maybe the very first transits had a different setup
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
dumper
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Location: Lincolnshire

Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Pablo-pilot » Sun Mar 07, 2021 6:49 pm

Ralph.9 wrote:That back plate is in the wrong orientation, the cylinder should be at the top & the cable enter from the front.

No. The plate is standing correctly, just the tail from the cable was pushed into the hole for the cylinder so that it does not pop out and does not interfere.
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