Moderator: Luke
DG-Unit wrote:Okay. The DTCs are in:
B1209 Instrument cluster switch bank 2 circuit failure
B1205 instrument cluster switch bank 1 circuit failure
knobby1 wrote:DG-Unit wrote:Okay. The DTCs are in:
B1209 Instrument cluster switch bank 2 circuit failure
B1205 instrument cluster switch bank 1 circuit failure
A few days old I know.....but..."B" codes are usually BCM related...I didn't even think a Mk6 had a BCM..?? Very confusing.
What code reader was used..??
Lord Knobrot
ned wrote:Not sure if this helps,
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=189785#p1621438
Not the easiest to find with the title but is a good explanation on how to fix your clocks.
DG-Unit wrote:Ugh. Re-soldered the connector contacts. I’m not getting any DTC codes but it also struggles to read the Instrument Cluster module now and then. Still no start, multimeter is giving me 11.56v at the batter contacts and similar in the engine bay. The battery indicator window is still nice and green (75% apparently) but it doesn’t get going with my Noco Boost jump pack. I can’t really understand why a 6 month old battery has lost so much charge over 5 days and still indicate good condition but maybe it is what it is.
ned wrote:DG-Unit wrote:Ugh. Re-soldered the connector contacts. I’m not getting any DTC codes but it also struggles to read the Instrument Cluster module now and then. Still no start, multimeter is giving me 11.56v at the batter contacts and similar in the engine bay. The battery indicator window is still nice and green (75% apparently) but it doesn’t get going with my Noco Boost jump pack. I can’t really understand why a 6 month old battery has lost so much charge over 5 days and still indicate good condition but maybe it is what it is.
My old mk6 wouldn’t start with less then 12.6v and wouldn’t jump start either, start ya b*stard used to get that going in those conditions lol, the battery should be under warranty so take it back, many years ago I worked for an auto factors and the “new” batteries would sit on the shelf for months, once a months the company would trickle charge about 20 at a time to keep them topped up.
gotgcoalman wrote:The green light is a device to make you think a battery is in good condition,when it's actually fooked.
It's to make you blame other components and replace them due to the light saying the battery is in good health.
See pic,light is green and battery is fooked.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
Nordic Blue wrote:Hi DG-Unit,
If you're still getting issues it might be worth rechecking your soldering. When I did mine to fix intermittent readout and dials, the first time I put it back in the force of the plug clipping home broke a couple of the solder joints I hadn't done so well and had to redo them.
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