Loud noise when driving

[avromo]

thanks, i understand its important to get the torque correct on the driveshaft nut, what do ppl use for this ? torque wrench i have access to does not go that high ?

RWD's don't have front "driveshafts" as such. If you don't have the proper tools to do the job, take it to someone who has.

Front axle nut torque is the least of your problems, if you don't have a decent press to get the hub out of the bearing and refit the hub into the new bearing, you'll struggle. Some have used a decent sized lump hammer but there's a chance you can damage the bearing in the process.

Lord Knobrot

thanks , i have ordered a hub puller to pull off the bearings , 15 ton hydraulic
https://uk.vevor.com/hydraulic-gear-pul ... 3VEALw_wcB,
think this should work

will use the bolts behind the hub trick to get the hubs off , then put them in a vice put a socket on the flange top and use the puller to pull the bearing off, grind off the inner race and press back on using the hub puller. shuldi grease the flange before pressing on new bearing , i am a beginner so wish me luck!

[knobby1]

You can buy the bubs and bearings "pre-assembled"...makes things a lot easier and less damage to other components.

Lord Knobrot

[Jim Archer]

Bearing assy is a 'cartridge' type, consisting of 2 opposing angular contact ball races, the preload i.e. hub nut torque is fairly critical - 345N/M comes to mind, which is decent big 1/2" drive wrench territory.

Usually the worst bits of the job are getting the b*****d bearing assy out of the steering knuckle after all the years of sh*te and corrosion, and the bearing off the flange - cut outer with a grinder and split, then grind the inner thin in 2 places and knock off.

The Tx50 screws need a long bit and firm application of torque to free the threadlocking compound, and if you are really lucky, a previous attempt has left the end of the Torx bit in 1, or if really really lucky, more of the screw heads ...

Jim

[avromo]

update for anyone wanting to do this.
I am a real beginner and my weekend mechanic did not want to do this as he had never got a transit hub off and did not have a bearing press.

So i did it with him showing him various methods learnt off here and youtube,

so you get off the wheel and hub nut and caliper etc, then i took out the 5 torx 50 being careful to tap the bit into place and carefully applying pressure. According to advice the biggest horror is rounding off those t50's. They were ok to get off. Then i got some long M10 bolts and took off approx 2/3 with a grinder (mechanic did that !) and put them in the back where the t50 had come out of , wind them in and they push the hub off. I did one side easy then the other side was a nightmare as the bolt got stuck , i put too much pressure on (beginner mistake i think) and the bolt snapped, (the mechanic drilled it out but we lost that thread so now only 4 t50 holding the bearing into place, is this crazy?).

then when the bearing assembly off i used a 15 ton hydraulic hub puller (yellow found on ebay 50£) to pull the bearing off , the method was to put a socket on top of hub flange (think 36mm) so the end of the hub puller had something to push against and just pumped until the bearing pulled off, mechanic then ground the inner race off . To get a new bearing on just used the hub puller the other way i.e got a grip round back of hub put a flat piece of metal over top of bearing and pushed it on.

pls ask if you want anymore details.

[knobby1]

update for anyone wanting to do this.
I am a real beginner and my weekend mechanic did not want to do this as he had never got a transit hub off and did not have a bearing press.

So i did it with him showing him various methods learnt off here and youtube,

so you get off the wheel and hub nut and caliper etc, then i took out the 5 torx 50 being careful to tap the bit into place and carefully applying pressure. According to advice the biggest horror is rounding off those t50's. They were ok to get off. Then i got some long M10 bolts and took off approx 2/3 with a grinder (mechanic did that !) and put them in the back where the t50 had come out of , wind them in and they push the hub off. I did one side easy then the other side was a nightmare as the bolt got stuck , i put too much pressure on (beginner mistake i think) and the bolt snapped, (the mechanic drilled it out but we lost that thread so now only 4 t50 holding the bearing into place, is this crazy?).

then when the bearing assembly off i used a 15 ton hydraulic hub puller (yellow found on ebay 50£) to pull the bearing off , the method was to put a socket on top of hub flange (think 36mm) so the end of the hub puller had something to push against and just pumped until the bearing pulled off, mechanic then ground the inner race off . To get a new bearing on just used the hub puller the other way i.e got a grip round back of hub put a flat piece of metal over top of bearing and pushed it on.

pls ask if you want anymore details.

It's so much easier to just buy the hub & bearing assembly and replace the lot...hell of a lot cheaper and easier than having to buy a puller/press/grinder etc...

Lord Knobrot

[scas]

As knobby said, but you're limited to possibly cheap shiity bearings as ford don't sell them pressed together

[knobby1]

As knobby said, but you're limited to possibly cheap shiity bearings as ford don't sell them pressed together

I have a pair of "cheap shitty" ebay bearings and hubs on mine, they weren't pressed together though, I did all this myself using a 30ton press at my work, so much easier... I fitted them several years ago...has done close to 80k km since and no issues, still nice and smooth.

Lord Knobrot

[scas]

You did well, I'm glad. I still think a 4 foot prybar, an angle grinder and a cheap 6 ton press works well

[avromo]

thanks for the support and it was hard work, plus i had a retired mechanic showing me what to do, but i really enjoyed the challenge. I was just upset re the stuck bolt and now only having 4 x t50 holding in the bearing, i hope it will hold!

[tbullivant]

When I had the same issue with mine, it was one of the UJs on the prop was failing and had lots of play. if your's isn't RWD it wont be that, but worth considering.

[avromo]

Hi coming to do this again on my mk7 transit (last time was on my mk6).
2 things : 1 - is there a way of getting off inner race without grinding as last time i noticed i scored the hub flange (or does this not matter)
2- when pressing (or pulling in my case) the new bearing on should i be putting pressure on inner or outer or possibly just put flat piece of metal so its equal pressure?
thanks again

also going to do some front track rod ends. anything that might get tricky?

[scas]

Grinding is boring but the cheapest way, you can buy a tool to do the removal but its, the last time i looked, about 400 quid. Scoring stuff doesnt matter and press the inside of the new bearing only

[metalworker0]

You don't grind all the way, you stop just short , then you use a cold chisel to crack the rest of it .. then it will come off.

You do need to press on the right part of the bearing when installing .. get this wrong and it will destroy the bearing, rule is when pressing onto a shafts .. you press on the inner race , when pressing into a hole you press on the outer race ... all this needs to be done with support underneath that doesn't interfere with the pressing process and allows the components to go the full way without them hitting anything.

As you you've already seen what happened to the old bearing, when getting it out, get it wrong whilst installing and it will come apart separating into inner race and outer race and will be ruined. you cannot use the bearing if this happens.

so really needs a few tools to install it .... try you local machine shops scrap bin there will be scraps that are right for the job . off cuts from the machining process that are sort of like so in the middle picture.

https://enginepro.com/wp-content/upload ... ck-3-1.jpg

all the best.mark

[avromo]

You don't grind all the way, you stop just short , then you use a cold chisel to crack the rest of it .. then it will come off.

You do need to press on the right part of the bearing when installing .. get this wrong and it will destroy the bearing, rule is when pressing onto a shafts .. you press on the inner race , when pressing into a hole you press on the outer race ... all this needs to be done with support underneath that doesn't interfere with the pressing process and allows the components to go the full way without them hitting anything.

As you you've already seen what happened to the old bearing, when getting it out, get it wrong whilst installing and it will come apart separating into inner race and outer race and will be ruined. you cannot use the bearing if this happens.

so really needs a few tools to install it .... try you local machine shops scrap bin there will be scraps that are right for the job . off cuts from the machining process that are sort of like so in the middle picture.

https://enginepro.com/wp-content/upload ... ck-3-1.jpg

all the best.mark

I think I could find a socket that will press on the inner race
Is it rough part towards van

[avromo]

Managed to get the bearing done yesterday.
Was more cautious with the bolts from behind to push the hub off as last time I snapped a bolt. Also grinding off the end of the bolts helps for getting in the hole easier but it loses some of its strength. Also found that it wandered a bit on the back of disc until it found a good surface as it's not flat. Wander if there a different way.
Thought the bearing wasn't coming off with my hydraulic hub puller but got there in the end!
Found a socket that sat just on the inner race for pulling the new bearing on.
Pain getting the dummy drive shaft back in for some reason. Might have slightly damaged the internal splines when pressing, unsure.