MOT Failure - Rust

[jacky]

Got a call today to tell me that the van has failed its mot :

Offside Integral body structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced inner sill rotten (6.1.1 (c) (i))

Nearside Integral body structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced Inner sill rotten (6.1.1 (c) (i))

They are getting back to me with a price on Monday and then I can decide on what to do. Due to the low miles on my van and the price of new vans, I will probably go for the welding unless the price is really high.

Can anyone tell me what part of the sills are rotten - ie the steps or the full side of the sills front to back and does the outer sill need cut away as well to get to the inner sill?

Van is a 2010 SWB Transit

[metalworker0]

Could be hardly anything ..like a 2 x 2 inch square patch or as much as a complete inner and outer at 14 years

Those statements on the MOT are all worded the same when it concerns rust, cover a wide range, as above ,and usually sound frightening.

When you have it fixed there are different grades / methods of repair that can be done, depends on whose doing it (note - some repairers are incapable of doing a good job) and how long you want the repair to last .

1. A good repair would be all bad metal cut out and replaced, quality stone chip paint applied followed by paint in the vans colour ....then panels waxed injected after the job is done - expensive and may take some time.
2. A bad repair would be a patch or patches welded over the top of the rust, and slapped with bituminous under seal....this can accelerate corrosion, and may lead to more repairs in the future. cheap and quick

At the end of the day ..you want a repair that lasts the same time as the rest of the van has life in it.

So if it has 250,000 miles on it ..is burning oil ...has other things on its way out and you cant see yourself keeping it for more than 2 years - go for number 2.

all the best.mark

[andz327]

You tell us mucker get yerself under it and have a look
oor crystal baws are all puffed oot at the moment

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[jacky]

Could be hardly anything ..like a 2 x 2 inch square patch or as much as a complete inner and outer at 14 years

Those statements on the MOT are all worded the same when it concerns rust, cover a wide range, as above ,and usually sound frightening.

When you have it fixed there are different grades / methods of repair that can be done, depends on whose doing it (note - some repairers are incapable of doing a good job) and how long you want the repair to last .

1. A good repair would be all bad metal cut out and replaced, quality stone chip paint applied followed by paint in the vans colour ....then panels waxed injected after the job is done - expensive and may take some time.
2. A bad repair would be a patch or patches welded over the top of the rust, and slapped with bituminous under seal....this can accelerate corrosion, and may lead to more repairs in the future. cheap and quick

At the end of the day ..you want a repair that lasts the same time as the rest of the van has life in it.

So if it has 250,000 miles on it ..is burning oil ...has other things on its way out and you cant see yourself keeping it for more than 2 years - go for number 2.

all the best.mark

Cheers for the info. Wasnt sure if the wording on the fail sheet was specific to certain areas, so thanks for that. The vans only got 91,000 miles and runs great so fingers crossed.

[jacky]

You tell us mucker get yerself under it and have a look
oor crystal baws are all puffed oot at the moment

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As there was only a few bits of surface rust, i never thought about looking under it.

If your crystal ball works before monday could you tell me how much it will cost to fix

[andz327]

Some pictures of the rotten areas would help



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[jacky]

Some pictures of the rotten areas would help



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Vans still at the garage

[andz327]

Some pictures of the rotten areas would help



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Vans still at the garage

What's the latest??

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[jacky]

Couple of holes on both sills. Looks like they cut a small section out and welded.
Advised that both steps are not far behind either. At least ive got the van back on the road for now.

[gotgcoalman]

Couple of holes on both sills. Looks like they cut a small section out and welded.
Advised that both steps are not far behind either. At least ive got the van back on the road for now.

You've got a year to buy a welder,have a practice and save yourself a fortune in the future

Sent from my LE2101 using Tapatalk

[jacky]

Couple of holes on both sills. Looks like they cut a small section out and welded.
Advised that both steps are not far behind either. At least ive got the van back on the road for now.

You've got a year to buy a welder,have a practice and save yourself a fortune in the future

Sent from my LE2101 using Tapatalk

I actually did buy one from ebay. Bought a Clarke 145 turbo. Not had a chance to practice yet but willing to give it a shot.

[metalworker0]

I started with a mig welder in 1986 or there abouts, that was a Clarke 120en. i think it was called, I bought it from Machine Mart for £126.

..No internet then for of videos ,...had to buy a VHS video ...
This is the actual video, that got me started
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hEHjo6K-Js

and i bought a book by Lindsay Porter -- this one

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302031794500?

downloadable here
https://archive.org/details/the-car-bod ... 8/mode/1up

The rest i learned from practical classics magazine ...well most of the above was from adverts in practical classics magazine, it was £1 in those days... now £6.25

all the best.mark

[jacky]

Brilliant Mark, thanks