Advice for installing dc-dc charger in 2007 connect

[Transit-man-van]

I am still a little lost as to wire gauges and what my alternator is to see if suitable for a specific dc-dc charger.

I have this one in mind for good price to feature ratio as the bigger ones are double or more and don't think I need that much as this is just to supplement solar in these shorter days or if they would even be compatible with the alternator: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/sterling ... v-25a.html

Will that one work with what I presume to be a stock 2007 connect alternator? I looked in the manual today and could not see mention of an alternator in terms of specifications and forgot to look under the hood when I went outside and am now inside for the evening.

Also what wire gauge should I use? A support rep on 12 volt planet wrote me that 50a cable with 30a fuse will suffice. I am confused by this since I read an article on split chargers today that stated you should choose wire that is the amperage of the charging unit (which would be the alternator right?) but also that the battery can also be a charging unit so you should add both together. I know the battery is 60 or 80, can't recall exactly and then also add the amps of the alternator, currently unknown but probably up to 100 or more so why did they tell me only 50a wire? Does the above advice on split charging not apply in this case of dc-dc charging?

Any other considerations for setup? I thought initially I would have to drill another hole to get to the engine from the cab however I remembered I have a whacking great 100mm hole in the floor for an intake fan so I could run it through there couldn't I? I believe there is space to fit the wire without interfering with the fan. That would make life somewhat easier.

[metalworker0]

The alternator is 130 amp

you go here and work out the cable size . varies with length and cores

https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator

why do you need one of these things, ---- 2007 ---have you had a good look at the rest of the van particularly underneath to determine its condition rust etc and if its worth sinking £124 into it.

all the best.mark

[Transit-man-van]

The alternator is 130 amp

you go here and work out the cable size . varies with length and cores

https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator

why do you need one of these things, ---- 2007 ---have you had a good look at the rest of the van particularly underneath to determine its condition rust etc and if its worth sinking £124 into it.

all the best.mark

Thanks.

Yes I know the general rule of how to work out cable size but what I am not clear on is how thick they should be for this particular task. With my other dc electronics I know because the device has their amps given and just go 20% above that.

For this I am not sure what to go 20% above...Is it 20% above the leisure battery (105ah), 20% above the starter battery (60 or 80 I forgot), 20% above the alternator (120a as you have noted), or 20% above the dc-dc charger rating (25a), the latter which seems to be what the support at 12 volt planet have rated for.

So just trying to figure out what I am gauging to on all those things mentioned above. Oh, just reading the description and the manufacturer states it:

Sterling recommends connecting using 6mm² cable and 30A fuses (see related products below).

So it does indeed seem a case of only having to fuse/wire for the charger amp rating, correct? That will bring down costs of running the long lengths of wires if that is the case!

As to why I want it for this old 'clunker' it has been my home for over a year now and served me well so far. I have 300w of solar to run my modest electrical requirements day to day, including internet access, which is not enough right now with the short days, or at best barely scraping by with strict rationing and monitoring of use, with the days set to get yet shorter for a while yet. This thing will be a backup and allow me to put some charge in whenever I want, as someone else mentioned, like having a generator in your van.

As for its condition I had a mechanic look it over before purchase and he gave the all clear it was in great condition with hardly any rust except a bit on the hubcaps, that I recall from the report. I also when I gutted the inside of the back to do the campervan build there was no rust to speak of underneath the plywood either. From what the salesman said it had hardly been used by the previous owner, who iirc, had bought it new and mainly had it parked up.

[dumper]

When I fitted a 30 amp Sterling b2b 12 volt planet recommend Single Core Thin Wall Cable - 6.0mm² 50A"
black and red I also used the inline fuse box that has the bolt in fuse link when I first fitted it I used a standard blade type fuse box but after a year I was doing some work on the van and it had been showing signs of getting hot but had never blown.

[Transit-man-van]

When I fitted a 30 amp Sterling b2b 12 volt planet recommend Single Core Thin Wall Cable - 6.0mm² 50A"
black and red I also used the inline fuse box that has the bolt in fuse link when I first fitted it I used a standard blade type fuse box but after a year I was doing some work on the van and it had been showing signs of getting hot but had never blown.

So, I still don't have an answer what should I be rating the wire/fuse to?

I suddenly realized that 25a is really not going to do much to increase my overall power considering I only drive 30 minutes average a week for a food shop. That would only be 12.5a per week of my 105ah battery wouldn't it? Of course I do always have the option to idle the van but not good for it is it? Will it do much harm though to do that a few times through the month or so of the shortest days?

If the alternator is indeed 120a then I could get the beefiest charger I could manage for the alternator/afford. Then I would maximise what I got from the little driving I do.

I saw the older model sterling on 12volt planet, 60a for £246: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/sterling ... v-60a.html (I find that line weird, they look like child's toys!)

Or the 70a newer model, which has the jump start and trickle charge features for the starter which are appealing at £410: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/sterling ... v-70a.html

£246 for 60a seems a better deal than £410 for 70a although the latter has the additional nice features of trickle charging the starter from solar and also jump starting it which both seem very handy additions. Whether they justify paying almost 2x the price and for an extra 10a charge, I am not sure.

Btw where am I supposed to be looking to find the alternator to check? I just looked, admittedly in first light so still not full daytime, and could not see it above. Will I have to go underneath or take it out to reveal the spec as it was not immediately apparent from a top down view and had a fair look around.

[dumper]

Sorry forgot to put fuse size recommend 40 amp by 12v planet.

[metalworker0]

My guess of 130 amps for the alternator ..was from looking at ebay and the ones for sale

most are between 120 amps and 130 amps ..a few at 150 amps and think i saw 1 at 165 amp

just as a matter of interest ..
how much do you get out of those solar panels if you park under a street light?

oh ..and put this into ebay "pedal power generator"

the first result is a 2000 watt one ..which is impossible ..

as they recon the most a human athlete can make for a few mins is 350 watt ..and for hours 100 watt

and

https://www.marlec.co.uk/wp-content/upl ... orhome.jpg

all the best.mark

[Transit-man-van]

My guess of 130 amps for the alternator ..was from looking at ebay and the ones for sale

most are between 120 amps and 130 amps ..a few at 150 amps and think i saw 1 at 165 amp

just as a matter of interest ..
how much do you get out of those solar panels if you park under a street light?

oh ..and put this into ebay "pedal power generator"

the first result is a 2000 watt one ..which is impossible ..

as they recon the most a human athlete can make for a few mins is 350 watt ..and for hours 100 watt

and

https://www.marlec.co.uk/wp-content/upl ... orhome.jpg

all the best.mark

Oh, it was a guess. I will certainly want to confirmation then before potentially spending £400 on a charger!

I looked earlier in better light and while I found it down at the bottom, below the engine, when laying on the ground looking up, I still was unable to see the wording on the sticker as it is really tight and close to the radiator.

Could either take a picture or try torch and mirror but did not do that.

Yes wind power has been done on vans. I actually looked into that and everyone told me to forget it since wind is so hit and miss you would always be better with more solar instead since the sun always comes up, albeit with varying weather affecting performance. Well the dc-dc charger is usually the first suggestion.

For solar my roof is now full but I could put them on the sides. It is a possibility and not so concerned about hiding them for 'stealth camping' like I was when I first starting living in the van.

It is between that and the dc-dc charger. The old 60a version looks good value for money at £246 for 60a which is similar price wise to buying 2 more 100w panels.

[Transit-man-van]

Sorry forgot to put fuse size recommend 40 amp by 12v planet.

No, I mean how do you figure out what size to use for this job as I don't know what to fuse/wire for. In my other dc circuits you just take the amp draw of the device and fuse 20% larger than that. In this case I don't know what the 'device' is I should be picking to take as the amp rate to go 20% above.

[dumper]

The recommendation from 12v planet the wire size is on my first post it’s 30 amp output from the unit the wire is 50 amp and the fuse is 40 amp

[Transit-man-van]

When I fitted a 30 amp Sterling b2b 12 volt planet recommend Single Core Thin Wall Cable - 6.0mm² 50A"
black and red I also used the inline fuse box that has the bolt in fuse link when I first fitted it I used a standard blade type fuse box but after a year I was doing some work on the van and it had been showing signs of getting hot but had never blown.

Hi, how did you setup your negative connections as this part is confusing me. Sterling expressly state that you should NOT use chasis as negative and rather use a 'common negative' between leisure and I think the charger and/or the starter battery.

Someone online on who is a respected member for van building has instructed me to ignore that and that you should use a chasis ground.

I currently have NO ground which I know is not ideal. I am waiting on more parts to come to do it properly but when I first made my electrical setup I read online since it is only dc then there is no need and an optional thing so to keep things simple I left it out.

Now though looking back and around the net people are saying better to do it.

With that in mind where are the 'negative ground points' on the transit connect? I guess it might not help anyway since I have no intention of ripping out the insulation just to get to them and think I will just use the exposed metal behind the driver's seat since that is close to where all the electrics are anyway, just a bit further back in the van behind the bed.

I have bought the bb1260 and working great so far. It boosted my 105ah battery from almost 0% up to maybe 50% in only 30 mihnutes or so on the first test run. It is not connected up properly yet though as I ran out of terminal connectors when wiring up so have just used a crocodile clip to hook up one connector.

I currently have negative from starter going to negative on the leisure battery as I saw something like that in the manual but for a different model. I also have a negative from the charger going out to the leisure terminal too as per that image.

I am waiting for more parts now though to tidy everything up, lots of connectors and other 'glue' parts and busbars which I didn't bother with on the first setup which I see are important to stop a horrible mess and faff when wanting to add new connections.

[Transit-man-van]

Btw does the transit connect (2007 for me) mind being having the engine running while idle?

I ask because since I don't drive hardly at all except my 30minute or so weekly shop I wondered if idling would be ok for the engine to charge the leisure battery.

When reading up on dc-dc chargers I have seen mention that some vehicles don't mind idling while others do. What exactly encompasses them minding or not minding as in what are the consequences?

For the past couple of days I have been idling about 30 minutes to give me enough charge for the day's electrics and still just testing the thing out. How much harm does it do to rely on this for most days during these few winter months we have until the days lengthen again and solar can take up the slack again in spring?

I guess I could plan longer drives but would really prefer not drive if I don't have to.

As was mentioned elsewhere, having a dc-dc charger is like having a generator in your van so idling suits me as diesel generators cost loads in comparison and also no extra space and the generator (van) comes with you where you drive.

[metalworker0]

i can tell you this, the connect of that year ..in the winter anything below 5c, if started up from cold and left idling, will not reach running temperature in 30 mins. may not reach it at all ..as i gave up after 30 mins

if you were to go for a run, say 5 miles and then leaver it tick over for 30 mins ..then that would be fine.

if you had a connect with a DPF , which you have not--- then that would be a terrible thing to do.


all the best.mark

[dumper]

When I fitted a 30 amp Sterling b2b 12 volt planet recommend Single Core Thin Wall Cable - 6.0mm² 50A"
black and red I also used the inline fuse box that has the bolt in fuse link when I first fitted it I used a standard blade type fuse box but after a year I was doing some work on the van and it had been showing signs of getting hot but had never blown.

Hi, how did you setup your negative connections as this part is confusing me. Sterling expressly state that you should NOT use chasis as negative and rather use a 'common negative' between leisure and I think the charger and/or the starter battery.

Someone online on who is a respected member for van building has instructed me to ignore that and that you should use a chasis ground.

I currently have NO ground which I know is not ideal. I am waiting on more parts to come to do it properly but when I first made my electrical setup I read online since it is only dc then there is no need and an optional thing so to keep things simple I left it out.

Now though looking back and around the net people are saying better to do it.

With that in mind where are the 'negative ground points' on the transit connect? I guess it might not help anyway since I have no intention of ripping out the insulation just to get to them and think I will just use the exposed metal behind the driver's seat since that is close to where all the electrics are anyway, just a bit further back in the van behind the bed.

I have bought the bb1260 and working great so far. It boosted my 105ah battery from almost 0% up to maybe 50% in only 30 mihnutes or so on the first test run. It is not connected up properly yet though as I ran out of terminal connectors when wiring up so have just used a crocodile clip to hook up one connector.

I currently have negative from starter going to negative on the leisure battery as I saw something like that in the manual but for a different model. I also have a negative from the charger going out to the leisure terminal too as per that image.

I am waiting for more parts now though to tidy everything up, lots of connectors and other 'glue' parts and busbars which I didn't bother with on the first setup which I see are important to stop a horrible mess and faff when wanting to add new connections.

I didn’t use the chassis for the earth I wired directly from the van battery to the leisure battery with a the fuse in the positive line .

[dumper]

i can tell you this, the connect of that year ..in the winter anything below 5c, if started up from cold and left idling, will not reach running temperature in 30 mins. may not reach it at all ..as i gave up after 30 mins

if you were to go for a run, say 5 miles and then leaver it tick over for 30 mins ..then that would be fine.

if you had a connect with a DPF , which you have not--- then that would be a terrible thing to do.


all the best.mark

Totally agree with mark I ran my mk8 marshalling on a car rally in the rain as needed to use the wipers to see the car numbers and the van took over 50 miles on the way home to clear the dpf.