Locks won’t stay locked - NOT door ajar

[overdraft]

Does anyone know how to fix the stupid lock problem? I’ve read the ‘ground the door sensor’ solution and even tried it although my door ajar lights are fine. All grounding it did was turn off the dashboard door ajar warning light even with the door open. No effect on the lock malfunction. I tried pulling the fuse called ‘locks’ on the inside panel. did nothing. I’d be fine with losing central locking but with no locks it’s a rolling paperweight.
This is my last ditch try before towing a nice straight well running vehicle to the crusher.
Anything anyone can think of to save her?

[overdraft]

2012…

[metalworker0]

Don't know what you have in the way of a keyfob on 2012

Mine was doing it 2006 model... lock, then strait away, it unlocked on its own

The cure was a new keyfob


Still going strong now . bought in July.. .was cheap and cheerful .. i put a new battery with sell by date 10 years into the future into it, to give it a good start..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388630385520

i know 7 months isn't a long term test .. but for what you are paying compared with a genuine ford one .. which is well over £100. its worth it .
... After a couple of months of faultless use , i bought another as a spare

all the best.mark

[overdraft]

thanks for the thought. unfortunately problem exists if you use the physical key too. tested the fob batteries as well and they’re fine.

[metalworker0]

i know you just said it happens with the key as well,

take it through the keyfob programming routine

see if it wakes something up

Turn ignition on and off eight times and the locks will cycle

all the best.mark

[andz327]

one of the locks will be either faulty/worn or it's sticking/ jamming, get some loose juice in all the mechanism
have you tried testing the locks individually through a diagnostic machine or forscan ?

Sent from my SM-G990B using Tapatalk

[andz327]

i know you just said it happens with the key as well,

take it through the keyfob programming routine

see if it wakes something up

Turn ignition on and off eight times and the locks will cycle

all the best.mark

used to be the bonnet security switch back in days of Sierra's etc if you pressed that several times fast and it beeped then activated checking each lock individually starting with drivers door..... simpler times am afraid

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[overdraft]

one of the locks will be either faulty/worn or it's sticking/ jamming, get some loose juice in all the mechanism
have you tried testing the locks individually through a diagnostic machine or forscan ?

So the thing I don't get about this approach is that the locks lock and the integrated 'door ajar' switch also works. If the lock mechanism was faulty/worn/sticky/etc. then surely it wouldn't fire and if the microswitches inside were gummed up how does the dashboard know the doors are open...
All of the 'solutions' I've managed to find for this apparently very common fault, assume that it's the door open switch that's at fault. Which I can't square with the fact that the door ajar dash light correctly identifies that the doors are open or closed.

[metalworker0]

ive remembered now , my actual keys were doing it as well .

and ive come to the conclusion now, its not the new fob that fixed the problem .. it was the programming of the fob routine that fixed it, give it a go .. see how it works out.
BTW .. no door ajar dash light on mine .. but at present it does have a non sounding "lights left on" warning ... that used to work with the doors .thought i would mention this as that's integrated intro the system as well.


all the best.mark

[g-man]

Had a similar problem a few years ago,traced to the side door,cleaned up the contacts and cured it, hope this helps.

[overdraft]

well what a sh*t show… pulled the door card, cut the door ajar wire on the left side (already did the right side) and grounded it. no change. totally out of effs at this point. so I cut the next wire that was something to do with locking. killed central locking, but stopped the instant unlocking if any of the doors were locked manually (which I would have accepted) except the door I cut the wire on wouldn’t lock even with the key. jumped the wires back together to see where I was at and no locking action whatsoever. checked the two fuses that said they were something to do with locks and one was blown. put the unblown one where the blown one was and normal failure mode was restored. not sure yet what I’ve disabled by losing that other fuse. at this point i’m fed up for the day so I figured I’d button it back up. I rummaged around in the wiring bin and spotted some of those butt joints with the built in solder and seals that you activate with a heat gun. looked like the easiest solution (it’s not. unless the wire is horizontal the solder runs downhill no longer covering both wires). while heating up these stupid connectors I thought I heard an electrical click, like maybe another fuse, but carried on. regardless, one of the connections was cold so I cut it out and used some good old fashioned crimp connectors. ok, I’ve now undone all my experiments and I should be back to square one. hit the lock button to test my connections and the GD locks WORK. so now I have no symptom to troubleshoot and clearly the problem can’t really be fixed as I have effectively done NOTHING. so the solution now is clearly sell, sell, sell…

[andz327]

one of the locks will be either faulty/worn or it's sticking/ jamming, get some loose juice in all the mechanism
have you tried testing the locks individually through a diagnostic machine or forscan ?

So the thing I don't get about this approach is that the locks lock and the integrated 'door ajar' switch also works. If the lock mechanism was faulty/worn/sticky/etc. then surely it wouldn't fire and if the microswitches inside were gummed up how does the dashboard know the doors are open...
All of the 'solutions' I've managed to find for this apparently very common fault, assume that it's the door open switch that's at fault. Which I can't square with the fact that the door ajar dash light correctly identifies that the doors are open or closed.

not the micro switches but a problem in the actual mechanism
try doing what the metalguy said , sounds like he had similar problem and sorted

Sent from my SM-G990B using Tapatalk

[metalworker0]

well Andy, it was either that that fixed it, or my old keyfob had a permanent unlock chip fault going on within it .


all the best.mark

[overdraft]

put the door panel back on and now it’s stopped working again WTF IS WRONG WITH THIS POS?

[overdraft]

OK, I have not diagnosed why, but I have diagnosed what...
The thing about putting the door panel back on that causes the locks to malfuncion (immediately unlocking) is how tight I do up the trim panel for the inside door handle.
If I do up the machine screw that hold the trim piece lightly the locks continue to work. If I snug it up they stop. What on earth could be going on there?
That was rhetorical... as long as it remains 'fixed' I don't care why...