Adblue light straight away on ignition on

[metalworker0]

you said something up there about temperature fluctuations, I know the ecoblue has this function, don't know if a 2015 2.2 transit will have it.

The ecoblue with stop start has a system on it with an extra electric coolant pump that directs coolant to the passenger compartment heater when its in stop start mode ... so your engines NOT RUNNING and its being cooled by this function, just so you can stay warm inside the cabin,.,,, so i imagine the ecoblue (don't know about yours or if all stop start function in this way ) is going through extreme cooling a heating cycles when its in stop start mode.


all the best.mark

[Ryan9153]

you said something up there about temperature fluctuations, I know the ecoblue has this function, don't know if a 2015 2.2 transit will have it.

The ecoblue with stop start has a system on it with an extra electric coolant pump that directs coolant to the passenger compartment heater when its in stop start mode ... so your engines NOT RUNNING and its being cooled by this function, just so you can stay warm inside the cabin,.,,, so i imagine the ecoblue (don't know about yours or if all stop start function in this way ) is going through extreme cooling a heating cycles when its in stop start mode.


all the best.mark

I’ve turned the stop start off bud, my only fault code now is P0420 catalyst efficiency bank 1 below threshold most searches say it’s either exhaust leak which it isn’t, engine misfire etc which it isn’t, catalytic converter itself maybe?, nox sensors which are both reading the same so I doubt it but still possible I suppose, I’m thinking remove cat and dpf and clean and inspect both while they are off, what you reckon?

[metalworker0]

catalyst efficiency a few weeks ago we discussed this with FRAG on the connect forum .. he reckoned
catalyst below efficiency could be a cracked catalyst . as well as according to AI exhaust leaks, faulty oxygen sensors, engine misfires, or excessive unburnt fuel.

I'm not quite sure how these combined DPF's and catalysts work though, if it has that set up .


all the best.mark

[Frag]

I think this is heading towards the DPF itself being faulty,but that’s always the last thing I’d want to condemn
Knowing how expensive they are.

As you haven’t mentioned it so far,I’d be checking the vaporiser next.
It’s free to check,and if you don’t,and then fit a DPF it may not fix the fault and you’d still need a vaporiser…..

Do you have access to,or can you borrow a ‘mityvac’. ?

[Ryan9153]

I think this is heading towards the DPF itself being faulty,but that’s always the last thing I’d want to condemn
Knowing how expensive they are.

As you haven’t mentioned it so far,I’d be checking the vaporiser next.
It’s free to check,and if you don’t,and then fit a DPF it may not fix the fault and you’d still need a vaporiser…..

Do you have access to,or can you borrow a ‘mityvac’. ?

So I will get hold of a mityvac but surely as the regen starts and gets halfway through the vaporiser is working? I think I need more knowledge on how this particular emissions system works. Again many thanks today I’m going to take off the dpf and cat and obvs all parts in the exhaust and inspect and test where I can, could it not be as simple as needing the nox sensors reset? Like telling the ecu they have been changed so it recalibrates.

[Ryan9153]

image.jpg

I think this is heading towards the DPF itself being faulty,but that’s always the last thing I’d want to condemn
Knowing how expensive they are.

As you haven’t mentioned it so far,I’d be checking the vaporiser next.
It’s free to check,and if you don’t,and then fit a DPF it may not fix the fault and you’d still need a vaporiser…..

Do you have access to,or can you borrow a ‘mityvac’. ?

So I will get hold of a mityvac but surely as the regen starts and gets halfway through the vaporiser is working? I think I need more knowledge on how this particular emissions system works. Again many thanks today I’m going to take off the dpf and cat and obvs all parts in the exhaust and inspect and test where I can, could it not be as simple as needing the nox sensors reset? Like telling the ecu they have been changed so it recalibrates.

So I took off the cat and forced air through it, it seems to be totally free airflow as well as the dpf, I forced air through that it seems clear. I’m pretty sure the dpf is not blocked. I’m trying to take the vaporiser off next but access is limited, getting any heat onto it is nigh on impossible. As metalworker suggested is the cat cracked and how would I identify that with this type of cat it’s very hard to see inside it?

[Frag]

So the vaporiser can get blocked with carbon and soot,then the diesel that’s pumped into it when active can’t get through and causes issues.
This is where the mityvac comes in,you don’t need to remove vaporiser from exhaust.
Remove the fuel supply pipe from vaporiser itself,put mityvac onto that pipe on vaporiser,set mityvac to vacuum,you should not see the guage move at all when pumping mityvac,if it pull vacuum and holds it,it’s totally blocked.
If it reads a vacuum that slowly drops away,it’s partially blocked.
You need to see no reaction from guage at all.

Also this far into the problem,it might be wise to try and find out if PCM and SOBDMC (ad-blue) module software are at latest (Ford) levels.

[metalworker0]

Well as far as seeing whats going on

A camera probe .. boroscope etc
You can now get them cheap for use with a mobile phone

mityvac.. expensive bit of kit

Would this do instead

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389486040517?

As regards vacuum etc, cheapest method , for all time and memorial, ive always done it this way, to check if somethings holding vacuum:-

Put tube on it and suck, whilst doing so, quickly cover end of tube with tongue of bottom lip ... if it continues to hold/ stick to your lip or tongue .. then its holding vac .


all the best.mark

[Ryan9153]

So the vaporiser can get blocked with carbon and soot,then the diesel that’s pumped into it when active can’t get through and causes issues.
This is where the mityvac comes in,you don’t need to remove vaporiser from exhaust.
Remove the fuel supply pipe from vaporiser itself,put mityvac onto that pipe on vaporiser,set mityvac to vacuum,you should not see the guage move at all when pumping mityvac,if it pull vacuum and holds it,it’s totally blocked.
If it reads a vacuum that slowly drops away,it’s partially blocked.
You need to see no reaction from guage at all.

Also this far into the problem,it might be wise to try and find out if PCM and SOBDMC (ad-blue) module software are at latest (Ford) levels.

Hi bud thanks ordered a mityvac today wasn’t too bad only £128 so we will see, tried to get vaporiser off but it def needs heat or I will risk damaging it or the threads, so got to wait for the mityvac to arrive. This job is costing a small fortune so need to get the part diagnosis right not fire the parts canon.

[Ryan9153]

Well as far as seeing whats going on

A camera probe .. boroscope etc
You can now get them cheap for use with a mobile phone

mityvac.. expensive bit of kit

Would this do instead

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389486040517?

As regards vacuum etc, cheapest method , for all time and memorial, ive always done it this way, to check if somethings holding vacuum:-

Put tube on it and suck, whilst doing so, quickly cover end of tube with tongue of bottom lip ... if it continues to hold/ stick to your lip or tongue .. then its holding vac .


all the best.mark

Hi Mark ordered myself a mityvac today wasn’t£128 so hopefully that will do the trick, also ordered a laser borescope around £228 plus vat I think so see if these two items aid me with diagnosis. Cheers bud

[metalworker0]

Spending money, or even telling others to spend it, makes me sweat.

so I always try to give alternatives.


all the best mark

[Ryan9153]

Well as far as seeing whats going on

A camera probe .. boroscope etc
You can now get them cheap for use with a mobile phone

mityvac.. expensive bit of kit

Would this do instead

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389486040517?

As regards vacuum etc, cheapest method , for all time and memorial, ive always done it this way, to check if somethings holding vacuum:-

Put tube on it and suck, whilst doing so, quickly cover end of tube with tongue of bottom lip ... if it continues to hold/ stick to your lip or tongue .. then its holding vac .


all the best.mark

Hi Mark yeah I understand that bud, I’m trying to keep costs down but they are already high.

[Ryan9153]

Hi guys so spent most of yesterday do the front discs and pads, then trying to get the vaporiser out, it just won’t budge, was just trying to get it out to clean it but think I’m going to wait for the mityvac, it’s completely seized in. I’ve got the headlight out, air filter box out, moved power steering bottle and washer fluid filler neck and I’ve got fairly good access to it now, applied heat but she still won’t budge, any tricks guys cos I’ve got a feeling replacing it is going to be the only way forward, exhaust might have to come off completely.

[Ryan9153]

Hi guys so update, hope you don’t mind me updating posts, I’m doing up so that it might help other members in the future, I see too many posts with no conclusions so loads asking did you solve it. Anyway so finally got vaporiser off and Frag you were right at least about the vaporiser it was completely blocked, I’m now cleaned it out and reinstalled it, so we will see. Just got to put her all back together then test drive fingers crossed.

[Ryan9153]

So further update test drove today for over an hour carry out regen, not as I expected went down to around 20% soot content and inferred loop of 2% then regen stopped normally no codes, carried on driving not sure what these two data parameters are but as I got back dpf soot was on 45% and inferred loop of 10% but def no fault codes so I believe we are all good. Many, many thanks guys hope that’s her fixed now.