1995 2.5D engine won't start after head gasket renewal

[hetman]

Please help me diagnose this problem again: my engine won't start after replacing the head gasket. Clearly something is wrong somewhere. I have used the LDV Service Manual and also the Haynes manual but I found the LDV manual extremely accurate.

In order to remove the head gasket, I removed the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve train, head and gasket, and before I did any of that, I found TDC and blocked the valve train entirely in 3 places, and never touched the timing belt, so I never touched the injection pump either. The engine stayed like this until the head had been planed by a reputable shop and a full valve job done and reassembled. Only one of the injectors was within specs, so I bought 4 new Stanadyne S26632 injectors at a pretty penny, and new gaskets, and began the reassembly after cleaning all parts and the whole engine pay and repainting all of it. I installed new head bolts and torqued everything to specs, including the valve train bolts. Then I followed the procedure for adjusting the valves which I found here somewhere; namely, when valves 1,6 are open, adjust valves 4,7, then when 2,3 are open, adjust 5,8, and when 4,7 are open, adjust 1,6, and then when 5,8 are open, adjust 2,3. I only turned the engine clockwise and I noticed nothing unusual about the movement of the engine or the opening and closing of the valves. Also, during this whole job, I never noticed any parts which were worn or damaged. I assembled everything and bled off the fuel injector pipes to make sure fuel is reaching the fuel injector, and the injectors are getting fuel. But while turning over, there doesn't seem to be any attempt to start the engine, as if perhaps the valves are not adjusted properly.

What can be causing this? I know it's not lack of charge, because I finally used a remote starter, to no avail. It doesn't seem like a lack of fuel, unless the 4 new injectors are all bad. I will remove them and check them if I can't discover the reason but what else could it be besides the valves not opening and closing correctly? In order to verify that valves 1 and 6 are open, are there any other markings on the crankshaft or engine block so I can determine if the proper valves are in the proper position for adjusting? For some reason I had no problem performing this procedure 5 years ago, with the assistance of you people.

Remember, I never removed or touched the cam belt or fuel injection pump, and only turned the engine clockwise. I don't know how to continue trouble-shooting. Could the valve timing be off? I don't know how, but do I need to strip down the engine again to the point where I can confirm that the cylinders and valve timing are correct, according to the crankshaft?

[Altransit]

Is there an immobiliser module on the back of the pump?

[hetman]

Is there an immobiliser module on the back of the pump?

I'm not sure but there is one small black wire plugged into the rear of the fuel pump. I could take a picture of it if necessary.

[dumper]

If it’s a single spade end terminal with the ignition on pull it on and off the should hear it click if it’s the stop solenoid on most of the Bosch solenoid you can unscrew it out the pump and remove the plunger refit it and try starting it but if it starts you will have to stall it

[hetman]

If it’s a single spade end terminal with the ignition on pull it on and off the should hear it click if it’s the stop solenoid on most of the Bosch solenoid you can unscrew it out the pump and remove the plunger refit it and try starting it but if it starts you will have to stall it

Today I checked for current at the spade terminal of this wire attached to the stop solenoid, and it has power. I cleaned the contact points and reattached it and tried to start it, to no avail. But at least I know I have power to the injector pump.

[dumper]

Did it click when refitting with the ignition on you should be able to or feel it activate
Just had another thought have you bleed the fuel upto the injectors slacken the injector pipes at the injector and spin it over with full throttle and see if it pumps fuel out of them when fuel comes out of a injector tighten the pipe and go through all 4

[hetman]

Did it click when refitting with the ignition on you should be able to or feel it activate
Just had another thought have you bleed the fuel upto the injectors slacken the injector pipes at the injector and spin it over with full throttle and see if it pumps fuel out of them when fuel comes out of a injector tighten the pipe and go through all 4

Yes, I heard it click on and off as I removed and plugged in the wire. I forgot to mention that but I do know it's getting electricity now. Previously, yes, I was working on the van with a neighbor and we did loosen all of the injector pipes (at the injectors) except number 4 (because it was difficult to access with the banana intake manifold in place), and cylinders 1, 2 and 3 were dry at first and then pumped out fuel as the motor was cranked over. Do I need to do cylinder 4, or is it sufficient to have done the first three to show that fuel was being delivered to the injectors on cylinders 1-3?

Is it possible that these new Stanadyne injectors are all faulty? I find that highly unlikely, but I could remove them and check them at a specialty shop (in fact I visited the owner yesterday and talked to him about the situation and the first thing he suggested was ensuring that power was being delivered to the the pump (and that the solenoid was working correctly).

Can the valve timing have jumped at some point though the engine was blocked in 3 places at TDC until the head was reinstalled, and the timing belt was never removed?

Or is it possible that I could have adjusted the valves incorrectly? I referenced a few threads here in which I participated 5-6 years ago when I had lost the timing on the engine and had to start from scratch to determine TDC and then set the timing and then adjust the valves, and the engine started correctly back then. I could go through that whole process again, or check to see if the valve timing is correct or not, and then the valves.

[dumper]

If you haven’t done anything with the belt before removing the head and refitting I’d expect it to be ok you could repin it to make sure
Even if the valve is not correct as long as there is clearance it should not affect cold start
It’s possible the injectors are defective it’s also possible the pump is not weak and can’t operate the injectors you could remove a injector and pipe it up to the pump outside the engine and see if it operates but be careful not for it to spray on a ignition source

[hetman]

If you haven’t done anything with the belt before removing the head and refitting I’d expect it to be ok you could repin it to make sure
Even if the valve is not correct as long as there is clearance it should not affect cold start
It’s possible the injectors are defective it’s also possible the pump is not weak and can’t operate the injectors you could remove a injector and pipe it up to the pump outside the engine and see if it operates but be careful not for it to spray on a ignition source

Thank you. I removed the new Stanadyne injectors and had them tested at a diesel repair shop, and they are all perfect. He suggested the pump itself has some kind of internal failure after sitting for 2 years and can't pressurize the system adequately. I can remove the pump and bring it in to have it tested, which is the course of action I will pursue.

I haven't read up yet on how to remove the pump, but any pointers would be appreciated. Will I have to remove the belts and plastic timing belt cover for the front of the engine, and pin the engine in all 3 places? I noticed a small removable plug in that plastic timing belt cover right in front of the fuel pump, but I suspect I should find TDC and pin up the engine properly, correct?

[dumper]

The plug in the front is for checking the timing without stripping the cover off as you say cover off pin the belt and loosen the 4 bolts that hold the pump gear on they will need to be loose when refitting the belt to set the timing correctly then remove the pipe work on the pump the throttle cable unplug the electrical connections.
There should be a support bracket at the back to remove and the bolts holding the pump on

[V184]

Why did you change the head gasket ? i have never heard of them failing , Is it a Bosch pump? if so try filling it with diesel through where the inlet fuel pipe fits, keep turning the engine over by hand as the pump takes quite a lot of fuel !

[hetman]

Why did you change the head gasket ? i have never heard of them failing , Is it a Bosch pump? if so try filling it with diesel through where the inlet fuel pipe fits, keep turning the engine over by hand as the pump takes quite a lot of fuel !

Thank you for the tips. The engine has been cranking over and over, for a long time. I bled the fuel inlet pipes at each injector, and there was fuel there, but it appears that the pump is not actually delivering the fuel and fuel pressure that is required. I've had a long-term problem with overheating of this van ever since I bought it, and replacing the head gasket was the last thing I'm trying to stop the overheating, which became worse since I lent the van to a friend for 8 months, after which it started really overheating and spewing coolant out of the reservoir. I never detected coolant in the oil or vice versa, but after removing the head, the gasket showed signs of damage between several cylinders, and I had the head completely rebuilt and planed (the valves were all good). I'm hoping this will solve that problem. The pump is a Bosch unit with the "banana" type intake manifold.

[V184]

Why did you change the head gasket ? i have never heard of them failing , Is it a Bosch pump? if so try filling it with diesel through where the inlet fuel pipe fits, keep turning the engine over by hand as the pump takes quite a lot of fuel !

Thank you for the tips. The engine has been cranking over and over, for a long time. I bled the fuel inlet pipes at each injector, and there was fuel there, but it appears that the pump is not actually delivering the fuel and fuel pressure that is required. I've had a long-term problem with overheating of this van ever since I bought it, and replacing the head gasket was the last thing I'm trying to stop the overheating, which became worse since I lent the van to a friend for 8 months, after which it started really overheating and spewing coolant out of the reservoir. I never detected coolant in the oil or vice versa, but after removing the head, the gasket showed signs of damage between several cylinders, and I had the head completely rebuilt and planed (the valves were all good). I'm hoping this will solve that problem. The pump is a Bosch unit with the "banana" type intake manifold.

Obviously you checked the thermostat water pump etc ? Has the engine got a lift pump on side of block behind the exhaust manifold ? if so take the filter off and spin the engine over fuel should piss out . The Bosch pumps are notoriously unreliable so could well be the problem have you tried a bit of easy start

[hetman]

The plug in the front is for checking the timing without stripping the cover off as you say cover off pin the belt and loosen the 4 bolts that hold the pump gear on they will need to be loose when refitting the belt to set the timing correctly then remove the pipe work on the pump the throttle cable unplug the electrical connections.
There should be a support bracket at the back to remove and the bolts holding the pump on

I started the process today. What is your opinion on buying a new timing belt? The manual says to always install a new one, and that once one has been installed, it's not good anymore. I replaced mine (and the water pump) 6 years go and about 6000 miles ago. Its condition looks good, but why does the manual say that once it's been tightened, it can't be reused?

[metalworker0]

6 min - 8 max years is what they say, this is when they should be replaced regardless of mileage.

in two years time, will you strip it down again to replace it or will you always be thinking about it, that's what i would ask myself

all the best.mark