1995 2.5D engine won't start after head gasket renewal

[dumper]

6 years old definitely new belt time even with a di that doesn’t do a lot of damage when it goes is not worth the risk

[hetman]

Why did you change the head gasket ? i have never heard of them failing , Is it a Bosch pump? if so try filling it with diesel through where the inlet fuel pipe fits, keep turning the engine over by hand as the pump takes quite a lot of fuel !

Thank you for the tips. The engine has been cranking over and over, for a long time. I bled the fuel inlet pipes at each injector, and there was fuel there, but it appears that the pump is not actually delivering the fuel and fuel pressure that is required. I've had a long-term problem with overheating of this van ever since I bought it, and replacing the head gasket was the last thing I'm trying to stop the overheating, which became worse since I lent the van to a friend for 8 months, after which it started really overheating and spewing coolant out of the reservoir. I never detected coolant in the oil or vice versa, but after removing the head, the gasket showed signs of damage between several cylinders, and I had the head completely rebuilt and planed (the valves were all good). I'm hoping this will solve that problem. The pump is a Bosch unit with the "banana" type intake manifold.

Obviously you checked the thermostat water pump etc ? Has the engine got a lift pump on side of block behind the exhaust manifold ? if so take the filter off and spin the engine over fuel should piss out . The Bosch pumps are notoriously unreliable so could well be the problem have you tried a bit of easy start

Yes, when I bought the van 8 years ago I went through all of that, due to very minimal overheating (according to the gauge, which was slightly to the right of center - not in the red by any means): new thermostat, radiator, water pump, timing belt, fan and coupling, timing set, valves adjusted, etc.....

You are the first to tell me that Bosch pumps are not reliable; I had heard the opposite. Yes, my engine has the lift pump. I have not tried to bypass the filter and see if fuel is pumping out of this lift pump, but in the past couple weeks I've performed various tests, including using ether to start the engine, and bleeding the fuel lines to the injectors (and the lines showed fuel at the injectors, so I assumed that that both pumps are working, but the injection pump might not be producing sufficient pressure). Also, it's not an issue of lack of power: I used an external jump starter as well, so there's ample electricity, and the injection pump is getting power.

[hetman]

6 years old definitely new belt time even with a di that doesn’t do a lot of damage when it goes is not worth the risk

Thanks for the confirmation. I see no signs whatsoever of any wear or damage and indeed the van has only been driven max 10K miles in that time period. But I'm glad you answered; I have ordered a new belt.

[hetman]

My aim is to remove the fuel pump and have it checked and likely rebuilt, but I'm going with a new timing belt and tensioner pulley (this is how the set is sold by Continental). The timing belt itself matches the last one I installed 7 years ago, a Continental CT 1054, made in Germany. However, the pulley that came with the set is entirely different from what I have on my Transit, and I don't see how this can possibly be right. Could this part have been errantly exchanged or put into the box? Should I return it, or just use the belt and my older tensioner pulley (with 10K miles on it, in great condition)? I'm going to go ahead and buy a new auxiliary belt for the alternator and also the power steering pump. Can anyone verify if this kit from Continental is the correct one for my 1995 2.5 D engine?

I have installed all three pins to lock up the engine at TDC in order to remove the injection pump. Everything lined up perfectly, which I take to mean that the timing was not incorrect previously, and thus not the cause of this engine not firing up.

[dumper]

That’s the later type replacement and is ok it’s just a bit more fiddly setting up you have to tension the adjustment with the Allen key hole in the window and get the dot in the middle lock it up turn the engine two revolutions by hand and the dot should still be in the centre of the slot from memory.

With your belt being low mileage and if the old tensioner is in good condition you could use it again many people have in the past it’s usually the belt that goes and not it.

[hetman]

That’s the later type replacement and is ok it’s just a bit more fiddly setting up you have to tension the adjustment with the Allen key hole in the window and get the dot in the middle lock it up turn the engine two revolutions by hand and the dot should still be in the centre of the slot from memory.

With your belt being low mileage and if the old tensioner is in good condition you could use it again many people have in the past it’s usually the belt that goes and not it.

Thank you for that information! I wouldn't have guessed that this is a new solution to a belt tensioner. I will use the perfectly nice older one I have.

I took off the injection pump this morning and the one thing that strikes me as odd is the placement (alignment) of the holes which are used to pin the pump at TDC. It's clearly off-center, but how could this have happened and is it related to the engine not starting eagerly? It might have been like this a long time; I have no idea, because this is the first time I've had the cover plate off the pump like this. Yes, the engine is still pinned at the flywheel and camshaft pulley.

[dumper]

When you remove the timing pin the pump will turn due to the valve spring inside it is normal for it to turn slightly

[V184]

That’s the later type replacement and is ok it’s just a bit more fiddly setting up you have to tension the adjustment with the Allen key hole in the window and get the dot in the middle lock it up turn the engine two revolutions by hand and the dot should still be in the centre of the slot from memory.

With your belt being low mileage and if the old tensioner is in good condition you could use it again many people have in the past it’s usually the belt that goes and not it.

Later tensioner far superior, keeps the belt at constant tension

[dumper]

Yess agree always used the new one but if he’s not confident and has the tension spring it a bit easier to do

[hetman]

Yess agree always used the new one but if he’s not confident and has the tension spring it a bit easier to do

Thank you! I'm definitely NOT up to speed on the newer system; no instructions were given on how to set it up. Perhaps there's a tutorial here somewhere but the older one I have is in like-new condition.

Also, thanks for the tip on how the spring works inside the injection pump pulley mechanism where the hole is. The diesel mechanic I am consulting also told me the same thing because I went to him 30 minutes after writing that post! I have some updates from those conversations and will post below about that.

[hetman]

I delivered my injection pump to the local diesel mechanic specialist in pumps, quite a cheerful and amicable chap who also doles out free advice which I'm eager to lap up. In any case, he rebuilt it within 2 days and today I reinstalled it. He noticed a few things wrong with it. Inside, there was damage to one of the lobes on a circular plate, which he said required a replacement part, which to his joy or surprise he found for sale (while I was there delivering it and he disassembled it in front of me) and purchased and it arrived the next day. Upon receipt of the unit, he explained a few more things he had found. One was the seriously wrong adjustment of the fuel delivering meter, and another is the fact that the cold start solenoid (I'm not sure the proper name for it) wasn't working ,but he said that it's powered by a positive 12V wire coming from the engine bay wiring loom, and I do not have any such wire in my van!! So even if this solenoid were working, there's no power to it. There is another power line to the injection pump above, with a different type of clamp fitting, and that is there. But I was unaware there was supposed to be two power wires coming into the injection pump. Later (today) I was searching for this missing wire and there does seem to be a place in the loom down on that side of the engine which has a wire coming out but I can see only a few inches of black plastic harness coming out, and no wire whatsoever coming out of there, but it does line up with where a wire should or would be if it were coming out of the loom to power that solenoid on the pump. I'm attaching pictures for more details.

I installed and hooked up the injection pump and pinned it into place but haven't installed the timing belt.

[hetman]

I got everything put back together today and it still fails to start. Perhaps I could use some cold start spray. Anyway, that's where I'm at now.