mk2 probable flexi brake hose issues

[Arvid393]

Hi!
First post (not counting the initial welcome-post).

On my 1982 transit the front brakes get tighter and tighter with use until they lock completely.
The problem is bilateral but there is slightly less issue with the right brake. I've changed the brake fluid and bled every valve in the correct order, problem persists.
After googling I've made the conclusion the problem probably is the famed flexi brake hoses acting like a one way valve because of interior deterioration.

I wanted to ask:

1. Can the hoses be cleaned/fixed and reused or if the only solution is to get "new" ones?

2. Are there interchangeable hoses from other models or even brands, or do they have to be specifically Transit 1978-1986 front flex brake hose?

Thanks in advance for any assistance, tips or guidance. As I said in the welcome section, I am new to working with older cars and have a lot to learn - and nothing competes with actual human knowledge on these matters.

[metalworker0]

The online parts catalogue we use only goes back to mk3, otherwise i'd be able to provide you with part numbers.

so you are using ebay and putting in the search term

transit mk2 brake hose front

First you must take a good look at your old ones .. so you have something to compare with

Yes, the hoses will be at end of life on anything over 15 years old , so best replace
they cant be refurbished , cleaned out or repaired

looks like the cheapest on ebay ,, brand new are £7.59... but you must check the picture and your hose

NOTE : DOT4 specification, is the only fluid you should use

ONce you have the 7 digit ford part number off an ebay listing that is identical to yours, you can search with it on ebay and maybe see it belonging to other vehicles .. but at £7.59 and quality MOPROD MAKE .. it is not worth the time and effort looking for others

note MOPROD is an old company that no longer exists .. so the hose are new old stock and may be
already many years old.

but but bot .. according to google

However, the Moprod brand name itself did not entirely cease to exist in the marketplace; it continues to be used and/or distributed for select classic and modern aftermarket replacement parts (such as brake discs, pads, and batteries) available through various UK motor parts retailers and distributors today.

Note tip - my own opinion .- the Chinese have not perfected durable rubber ..i have found, that any part that is made of rubber and made in china , has a lifespan of less than two years .. so do your checks

some well known brands are made in china and repackaged as so

all the best.mark

[gotgcoalman]

If you can't source original parts try googling braided brake lines.
Or
If you have a hydraulic specialist near to you get them to make a new pipe up.

Both options are more expensive,but if you're struggling to get genuine parts then it's worth a thought.

Sent from my LE2101 using Tapatalk

[metalworker0]

Just saying --the mk2's seem to have a bent into a shape metal pipe at each end that is 3-4 inches long .. this is for a reason .. so maybe putting any hose on will result in it rubbing on something

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vDYAAeSw ... l1600.webp

all the best.mark

[gotgcoalman]

Yep bends are there for a reason.

Hydraulic specialist would be able to copy the original.

Braided would need a bit of fettling.



Sent from my LE2101 using Tapatalk

[Ralph.9]

There are 3 different front brake hoses for the UK MK2 Transit depending on what calipers you have & they are handed left & right. If your changing the fronts you should change the rear one as well. I think that I only have 4 pot caliber front hoses in stock at the moment.

[Arvid393]

Ok, thanks!
So I guess there is no go-to replacement from another common car one could look for as well (I live in Sweden and would first like to try to source parts closer if possible at all).

Do you know what threads there are on the brake hoses? I was thinking of getting some stoppers for the brake lines while removing hoses/calipers etc but would need to know what threads to look for. (I was thinking of getting bleed valves or something simnilar and modifying/plugging them)

[metalworker0]

Do you know what threads there are on the brake hoses? I was thinking of getting some stoppers for the brake lines while removing hoses/calipers etc but would need to know what threads to look for. (I was thinking of getting bleed valves or something simnilar and modifying/plugging them)

In practice with this 44 year old van you'll be fighting with RUST and be against the clock when removed to replace before it's drained out, often you ll be cutting the short pipe / metal tube with pliers or hack-sawing through it , so that you can get a hexagon socket on its fastener, to remove it without "round off" event that will delay you.

There very well could be another vehicle that uses the same parts .. to ID this you'll need the fords seven digit part number in the search.

all the best.mark

[dumper]

You can slow the fluid draining out by putting cling film on the neck of the master cylinder and putting the cap back on I used to fill it right up to the top
But with a mk 2 being a simple system to bleed if the nipples are not rusted in it’s not really a problem I would personally change all the flexible pipes and any steel pipes that have not already been replaced before with copper or Kunifer brake pipe

[Ralph.9]

The Swedish ones you a different braking system to the rest of Europe, I would get Goodridge hoses made to fit?

[Arvid393]

I landed in removing and dismantling the brake calipers, so There Will Be Bleeding (of the brake lines)
(Removing the hoses went well for 3/4, the fourth one cant be removed it seems without stripping the nut on the line in the engine compartment)

I am now looking at getting new seals, those seal rings, bleed valves and probably brake shoes. The flexi hoses seem fine to the naked eye. To my surprise the ones on the worse off side right seems newer and probably have been replaced. If I´m unlucky the problem sits further up in the system

[metalworker0]

The seals may be difficult to find .. they would rather sell you the whole caliper

in the 60's 70's 80's .. was common to be able to buy these seals.. not now!

This company .. website has glitch at the moment- showing forbidden on my PC .. here you can ID the seals for Girling and Lockheed system's ID you calipers for the period ..you can browse the catalogues from your period.

https://www.northwestclassic.co.uk/

all the best..mark

[dumper]

Back in the day you used to be able to get a seal kit that came with a new piston there are companies in the uk that refurbish for classic vehicles

[Arvid393]

Some progress has been made but the main issue remains.

I removed the front calipers, cleaned them and replaced all the seals on what amounts to eight pistons (My car has the horisontally split system).
This was very needed, since the pistons was very hard to mobilize with old seals in a very sorry state.

Now, having mounted them and after bleeding the system, the original problem sadly persists - ie the brakes sieze in braking pressure, especially with the car turned on and thus the brake servo running. This brake tension immediately eases with bleeding the affected calipers. The back brakes work fine, as intended with the split system I presume.
In the process of the removal I checked the hoses, they did not seem very old and dilapitated which made me believe the problem probably could lie elsewhere.

One thing of note is that the previous owner replaced the brake servo because of leakage - the new one is from an entirely different make of car. The servo reads "Japan" and "Nissan", there also came a box with old parts along with the car which among other things contained a discarded Nissan master brake cylinder, also the old brake servo was there. I wonder if anyone could have an inkling as to wether this unoriginal replacement part could be a possible source of the problem? Even though the back brakes seem fine.

I feel a bit at a loss - is the next step replacing the hoses or does something give a hint that something else entirely might be the root cause of the problem?
Also if anyone has an idea - is the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir with two separate caps and the electronic sensor thingie common/original or is this something homebrewed as well? Pictured in the last image attached.
Any tips och ideas are very welcome, I really long to get it running again! See attached some pictures for some extra clues.

IMG_2190.JPG

IMG_2113.JPG

IMG_2170.JPG

IMG_2087.JPG

IMG_2189.JPG

[dumper]

When you get the brakes to lock on instead of releasing the bleed nipple undo the nuts holding the master cylinder to the servo to let it move forward to give clearance between servo and cylinder if the brakes release it could be that the servo is not letting the master cylinder return to off and is holding brake pressure in the system
Long time since I’ve changed a servo but from memory some of the Ford ones had a adjustable end on the rod that pushes onto the end of the master cylinder it’s all so possible that the brake pedal end is not letting it release.
Another problem I’ve had not a transit a dumper was a seal in the master cylinder twisting inside and not letting the brakes off