euro 5 2.2 rwd engine type help ID

[trannynick]

Are these numbers on top of the piston just the batch number? - All are .5 oversize 2.2 engine -
Also can anyone tell me why the Ford conrod has F1 and the aftermarket just has F stamped on them, they are identicle otherwise. Many thanks.

[metalworker0]

f1 .. f .. i dont know i cant see the rest .. may go up to f3

these by the look of it are ."Cracked rods" (formally known as fracture-split or cracked connecting rods).. the F probably stands for front

so they go back together the same

the rod cap and rod are cast as one .. then fractured during production.. so you'll see metal grain when taken off .

Yes 86.46 .. is the diameter of the piston and the first oversize indicated by 0.50.. standard piston would be 86.00 mm

SP .. had to look this one up

The notation "Sp 0.04" stands for "Spiel," which is the German term for piston-to-cylinder wall clearance. It indicates that there should be exactly 0.04 mm of gap between the piston skirt and the cylinder

spiel is German word for "play"

86.46 + 0.04 = 0.50 your oversize value over standard 86mm

how so

piston is 86.46mm
bore size should be 86.50..; when it was re-bored

all the best.mark

[trannynick]

thanks mark, yeh i have all the rods and caps lined up nicely in correct places, ive gave the bores a very quick hone, i then had to light sand them as the hone left them a little rough, and finally scotch pad, i gave no.4 bore an extra long hone and some sanding, its getting there, most of the roughness is gone, just one or two lines that can just about felt with the tip of the fingernail, im not sure if they are aluminium deposit from the piston or gouges in the cylinder, i'll find out tomorrow when i put some acid on it. Bore sizes all near enough still the same width when measured so getting there.

[metalworker0]

IMPORTANT - there is a plastic oil filter strainer thing under the crank at one end, make sure you replace this, as its the feed to the turbo, and the plastic deteriorates with age .. or it gets blocked.

the oilers that point up the bores .. no real way to test them or clean them, as they have spring and ball one way valve in them
buy a new set .. as they are suspect because of the seize


all the best.mark

[trannynick]

Hiya, yes got new oil squirters, got all the rings gapped (to haynes manual specs) the gap for the second ring seems large, larger than the ones that were removed, all in spec though now, bearing shells fitted in correct positions upper/lower - Haynes failed to mention this, thanks haynes & new rod cap stretch bolts, I havent torqued them up yet, I cant seem to see that strainer you mention, alls i can see is the turbo oil feed on the block which looks like it routes to the tensioner oil feed holes but i cant see aything else under the crank (the crank was not removed from the block) - thanks. Nick.

[metalworker0]

Well its important

30 seconds into this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-zJhRk_DSI

its Russian but translated

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

BTW - i think .. even though its Russian translated, its probably the best guide on youtube ,.,,he goes further with other parts .. maybe there should be a sticky with all parts. this guy knows his stuff !

all the best.mark

[trannynick]

thanks, yes, it seems the best videos are the russian ones, ive watched quite a few, multiple times over, they are gold dust alongside the haynes manual. With regards to the oil strainer, i didnt take the crank out the block, thats the only thing i didnt remove, but i did flush all the gallerys and openings multiple times with fresh petrol and compressed air, also ordered a new oil filter housing as there was shavings in there too, there was shavings everywhere, i think i have flushed everything out of every part. Replaced cheap oil pump with a pierburg one aswell, Just waiting on a tensioner tool from amazon then it can get put back in the vehicle. Many thanks for the advice.

[metalworker0]

well i don't know if its too late or not to take the crank out

shavings .. would have me not sleeping and thinking of this strainer.

you take the crank out and you need new stretch bolts etc .. so can get expensive and add up

but if your turbo fails soon after .. you'll know why

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

Note also .. the main oil filter does not always filter this swarf out, as sometimes its in bypass mode .. this may be with cold oil etc, watching strip downs on the youtube .. swarf makes it way up to the top of the engine . and to other parts despite there being an oil filter .. so i assume it bypasses the main oil filter under certain conditions... which is why i think it could have reached the strainer in the crank journal.

all the best.mark

[tranmx2]

Some oil filters are by pass - about 10% of the oil by passes the filter.
Oil filters that are not by pass - when the filter element is full/blocked up the filter element can move to allow unfiltered oil to the engine.

Flushing oil passages may not get all the debri out of the passage in part due to the way the passage ways are made. Many have plugs to access the passage way for cleaning.

Oil passage plugs remove to clean.png

[trannynick]

Its too late now guys, all the new stretch bolts are stretched, including the injector stretch bolts! Theres no going back now. Should be ok i think, what i did find was just tint flecks of aluminum, you couldnt even feel them on the finger they were so thin. Will update once it either starts and runs good or goes bang

[trannynick]

Im 200 miles on the rebuilt engine and all good so far, using zinc break in oil, no smoke at all. Thanks metalworker