After market Bosch turbo compatible pump

[metalworker0]

i cant if that piece you want to drill .. if it will come off .. so that you are not drilling the whole pump

all the best.mark

[cherniy_chack]

I don't think this dowel boss is hollow. I'm sure you could drill a hole in this spot halfway down the dowel boss, or even three-quarters of the way down.

[metalworker0]

i cant advice if he is doing wrong or right .. as in drilling and causing damage .. as i cant see what he may or may not be drilling into.
parts diagrams do not show enough detail

all the best.mark

[Peterr]

Parts diagram for the Bosch won’t show this Otosan pump correctly. I will take it easy trying the least risky thing first before trying to drill. Drilling will definitely void the warranty. Best to avoid if possible. Thanks to everyone for their advice and suggestions.

[Peterr]

So this worked, made a special tool to hold the flange. Used the thinner original Bosch shaft nut. Locked the shaft on the side. Tightened up the shaft nut while holding the flange with the tool. Once the flange was well tightened down I was able to torque it at 55-60 nM. Replaced the shim on the shaft side locking bolt.
Thanks Mark!

No need to drill holes.

[metalworker0]

Perhaps a bit safer with an "endmill" that will drill a flat bottomed hole.. so you do it bit at a time until through, because you then wont have a pointy normal drill bit sticking 5 mm through hole before the holes complete.

endmill 9 mm - i think you said


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275747706740?

£5.20
use wd40 as lube on aluminium .


all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

Looks like you are capable of thinking outside the box and made your own tool .. good job, well done .
as Exeter said
Congratulations, you built an interocitor, a task that few men are capable of.

all the best.mark

[Peterr]

Interesting drill bit! Definitely could be useful in situations where careful drilling is required. Fortunately this time no need to drill.

Some tips on mounting the pump to make life easier:
Loosen the ejectors but don’t remove the nut. Just a little free play is needed. Remove the pipe clamp that holds two lower pipes in parallel closet to pump to allow more movement. Do not bolt the pump to the motor frame. Leave the pump loose and connect the pipes on the rear first. Starting with the bottom left pipe first and most difficult (original Lucas pipes in same order) If you bolt up the pump and then try to connect the pipes on the rear it’ll be difficult to impossible. Once the pipes on the rear are finger tightened go ahead and gently maneuver the pump into place. Place the 3 bolts in and gently wiggle the pump to get the bolts to take the thread. Careful that it doesn’t cross thread as the pump is being pulled at a slight angle by the rear pipes. Once the bolts are correctly seated in the threaded holes , finger tighten to feel that it turns smoothly and it hasn’t crossed threaded. Then use a ratchet to gently tighten the bolts in a circular fashion to pull the pump into it’s seated position. Proceed as normal and bolt the rear of the pump to the engine block. Gently tighten up the rear pipes, also here check it hasn’t cross threaded and is seating the pipes properly.



Tomorrow I need to fill the pump with diesel using a hand pump. If I remember correctly I should fill the pump from the return pipe on the back until fuel flows out the loosened intake banjo. Then crack open the injectors, crank the engine and tighten up the injectors to bleed the air.

[Peterr]

Found a hand pump from another older diesel engine at the junkyard. Works perfect. Used some fuel quick connectors and tubing to connect it to an old fuel line with a banjo connector which I temporarily fixed to the return line on the back of the pump. Pumped fuel into the pump. I cracked opened the fuel intake banjo and observed fuel coming out while I pumped.


I’ve read conflicting methods, some say to fill the pump from the rear return, others say from the pump’s fuel intake line.

Any experienced suggestions here?

[Peterr]

Finished tightening all bolts to spec. Adjusted the timing belt tensioner according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Temporarily used the old timing belt. Once I’m sure I got the engine running properly with the new pump I’ll replace the timing belt and tensioner with new ones.

[Peterr]

Started the engine after bleeding the injector pipes. Started up right away. Only very little acceleration when I pull on the pump’s accelerator lever.

Still air in the system? A lot of white smoke. Was a very humid day.

Maybe I need to advance or retard the pump?

Any suggestions?

[Peterr]

Started it again this morning. Needed about 10 seconds of cranking to get it going. No acceleration and wobbly engine at idle. Not sure if excessive wobble from too low rpm.

I hope it’s not broken piston from when I started it with the 146 pump and the engine ran-away at high rpm for a couple of minutes before I could shut it off by opening the injectors. Solenoid valve wouldn’t shut down engine.

Maybe faulty injector?
Injectors we’re working fine with the Lucas pump.

As you can see a lot of white smoke.

[Peterr]

I remounted the air filter intake manifold and intercooler to be sure air pressure to the pump and engine was good.

After advancing the pump several times it got to be about 9-10 degrees clockwise. I ended up maxing out the clockwise movement of the shaft flange against the pulley so I had to loosen the belt and turn the pulley clockwise a bit to gain more movement to advance the shaft more of if necessary.

The engine started immediately and the white smoke has disappeared. Only a little bit of smoke when I accelerate hard. This could be due to the engine not being hot enough but I can’t run the engine for more than a minute with the radiator off.

Acceleration is strong and the engine has more power than before with the Lucas.

I tried to fit a new timing belt at this point since I won’t need to remove it for further adjustments anymore only to discover that my new belt is wider, 28mm ca. The Lucas belt is 25mm ca. It won’t fit the crankshaft pulley. So I must decide if I should replace the crankshaft pulley for a wider one which by luck I have. Or buy a new 25mm belt.

When fitting the timing belt it helps to gently clamp them to the pulleys so that the belt doesn’t hop a notch while fitting the tensioner. If the belt won’t fit snug and stays slack above or below it could be that the timing peg on the camshaft isn’t perfectly perpendicular. If so, while the flywheel remains pegged, gently turn the camshaft just that tiny bit to get the timing peg straight perpendicular. This will allow the belt to stay snug without slackness in either point between the pulleys.






It’s almost time to remount the radiator and give it a drive.

I will modify the belt cover by cutting the top part, leaving the pump pulley accessible in case I need to further retard or advance the pump. The top part can be replaced if it is cut below the two bolts that will hold it in place.

Spare crankshaft pulley for 28mm belt

[Peterr]

When tensioning timing belt use an allen key to turn clockwise until the marker hole is correctly positioned: